This is a short write up on how I made a Safariland 6378 ALS Holster work for my FNX-45.
First I want to give a big Thank You to Mark and Nate at ZX Gun in Fort Wayne for their help with this project and their patience with me as well. I have dealt with both of these gentlemen on numerous occasions and they are always professional and very very knowledgeable.
So I recently found two loves in the firearm world, an FNX-45 and Safariland's 6378 ALS Holster system. Unfortunately I could not mate the two together since Safariland does not offer that holster for the FNX-45. They offer a duty holster that is three times the cost and I really wasn't interested in that setup. So I ventured into ZX Gun and with the help of the guys there found the Glock 20/21 Holster was the closest to fitting but was going to require some modifications to a few areas. I rolled the dice and it worked out great for me. As a side note, the Blackhawk mag carrier fit the FNX-45 magazine perfectly.
*LEGAL DISCLAIMER, WHILE THIS WORKED FOR ME, YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY, AND I ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR ANY NEGATIVE RESULTS YOU MAY INCUR.
**HOWEVER IF IT WORKS GREAT FOR YOU AS WELL, I WILL ACCEPT SMALL DONATIONS IN THE FORM OF AMMO FOR YOUR GRATITUDE.
Handgun: FNX-45 (NON-TACTICAL)
Holster: Safariland 6378 ALS Model # 6378-383-411 (Glock 20/21)
Mag Carrier: Blackhawk Double Stack Mag Case for 9mm/.40 Model#410600PBK
This is the finished project. Following pictures will show steps and I apologize but I did not take pictures as I went but after I was done.
Removed piece that is pictured below from the area forward of the trigger guard. It is to adjust the fitment of the muzzle end of the gun by adjusting the stainless allen screw on the end to push the plastic tab tighter against the rail of the gun. It is held in by an allen screw and nut. Very easy to remove. It was too tall and prevented the gun from going into the holster due to contacting the railed area.
Replaced with a what I will call "plastic spacer". It's actually a plastic automotive nipple that I cut the threaded end off. You could use whatever you want but it needs to be somewhat slim so it does not touch the rail of the frame on the gun.
I then heated and flared the trigger guard area with a Butane torch and used a folded index card sandwiched in between the trigger guard of the gun and the guard area on the holster to give enough spacing. Basically I slid the gun into the holster while the area was soft and pliable, then let it cool down and harden before removing the gun. *Friendly tip, hold torch about 4-6 inches away and don't heat for too long, you will catch plastic on fire very easily. Practice and pay attention to the area you are heating, you will notice it change from the Matte finish to a shiny black when it starts to soften. I am not liable for anyone getting hurt!
I then heated and flared slightly for the slide release lever on the ejection port side and the safety/decock lever on the non-ejection port side. I used the end of a nut-driver to do the flaring.
I then got the gun to fully seat into the holster and engage the locking system, it functioned properly as designed. The fit was a little snug, but not too tight where I had to force anything. I did some light sanding in a few areas that I noticed were dragging a little bit on the gun. I didn't get too crazy, just sanded enough to make the holstering a little smoother and easier. I did not perform any further modifications to the holster. However I could probably spend some more time sanding to allow the gun to "drop" right into the holster, however it currently only needs a very light push with my hand to fully holster and activate the locking system. It does not have any wobble or rattling either. I am more than pleased with the results.
Here are some pictures of the end of the holster after final fitment. As you can see there is no longer a need for the adjustable insert that is originally included as the end of the gun fits snugly in the frame of the holster already.
First I want to give a big Thank You to Mark and Nate at ZX Gun in Fort Wayne for their help with this project and their patience with me as well. I have dealt with both of these gentlemen on numerous occasions and they are always professional and very very knowledgeable.
So I recently found two loves in the firearm world, an FNX-45 and Safariland's 6378 ALS Holster system. Unfortunately I could not mate the two together since Safariland does not offer that holster for the FNX-45. They offer a duty holster that is three times the cost and I really wasn't interested in that setup. So I ventured into ZX Gun and with the help of the guys there found the Glock 20/21 Holster was the closest to fitting but was going to require some modifications to a few areas. I rolled the dice and it worked out great for me. As a side note, the Blackhawk mag carrier fit the FNX-45 magazine perfectly.
*LEGAL DISCLAIMER, WHILE THIS WORKED FOR ME, YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY, AND I ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR ANY NEGATIVE RESULTS YOU MAY INCUR.
**HOWEVER IF IT WORKS GREAT FOR YOU AS WELL, I WILL ACCEPT SMALL DONATIONS IN THE FORM OF AMMO FOR YOUR GRATITUDE.
Handgun: FNX-45 (NON-TACTICAL)
Holster: Safariland 6378 ALS Model # 6378-383-411 (Glock 20/21)
Mag Carrier: Blackhawk Double Stack Mag Case for 9mm/.40 Model#410600PBK
This is the finished project. Following pictures will show steps and I apologize but I did not take pictures as I went but after I was done.
Removed piece that is pictured below from the area forward of the trigger guard. It is to adjust the fitment of the muzzle end of the gun by adjusting the stainless allen screw on the end to push the plastic tab tighter against the rail of the gun. It is held in by an allen screw and nut. Very easy to remove. It was too tall and prevented the gun from going into the holster due to contacting the railed area.
Replaced with a what I will call "plastic spacer". It's actually a plastic automotive nipple that I cut the threaded end off. You could use whatever you want but it needs to be somewhat slim so it does not touch the rail of the frame on the gun.
I then heated and flared the trigger guard area with a Butane torch and used a folded index card sandwiched in between the trigger guard of the gun and the guard area on the holster to give enough spacing. Basically I slid the gun into the holster while the area was soft and pliable, then let it cool down and harden before removing the gun. *Friendly tip, hold torch about 4-6 inches away and don't heat for too long, you will catch plastic on fire very easily. Practice and pay attention to the area you are heating, you will notice it change from the Matte finish to a shiny black when it starts to soften. I am not liable for anyone getting hurt!
I then heated and flared slightly for the slide release lever on the ejection port side and the safety/decock lever on the non-ejection port side. I used the end of a nut-driver to do the flaring.
I then got the gun to fully seat into the holster and engage the locking system, it functioned properly as designed. The fit was a little snug, but not too tight where I had to force anything. I did some light sanding in a few areas that I noticed were dragging a little bit on the gun. I didn't get too crazy, just sanded enough to make the holstering a little smoother and easier. I did not perform any further modifications to the holster. However I could probably spend some more time sanding to allow the gun to "drop" right into the holster, however it currently only needs a very light push with my hand to fully holster and activate the locking system. It does not have any wobble or rattling either. I am more than pleased with the results.
Here are some pictures of the end of the holster after final fitment. As you can see there is no longer a need for the adjustable insert that is originally included as the end of the gun fits snugly in the frame of the holster already.