Scope bases?

[Gun Chooter]

Looking for some schooling on scope bases. I'm going to be in the market for a new scope for my remington 700 chambered in .308 in the near future. I'm going to get a jump on things by picking up a base and rings. Pretty much have the rings picked out, but have a few questions about bases. My main question is about the built in moa. I understand the reasoning but at what distance does your target need to be before you need this extra 20moa? I plan to shoot between 1-300 yards when I get my build complete. I'm also looking for recommendations on a quality base at an affordable price. After looking around I like the looks of the EGW bases.

 

[phylodog]

EGW makes a good base for the money. The available elevation in the scope you use will determine if you need a canted base. Shooting out to 300 yards won't typically require a canted base unless you're shooting 22lr. That said, having a 20MOA base on won't hurt anything so you may as well get one and you'll have an extra 20MOA of elevation available should you decide to shoot farther in the future.

 

[Sirshredalot]

Ive used several different bases and mounts for 700's, and the only ones that use now are DNZ game reapers(ive got one freedom reaper).

They are always straight, easy to install, and VERY stable/sturdy/stout....they cost a little more($50-60-ish) but they are WELL worth it IMHO.

$.02
God bless
-Shred

 

[Gun Chooter]

I was wondering if the canted base would be an issue at closer ranges, if not I'd definitely like to have the ability to grow into the rifle as skills progress. What exactly is gained when you jump from an entry level egw, to say a higher end base like badger ordinance? The part is so simple it's hard to see where there could be much difference in quality.

 

[Gun Chooter]

I briefly looked at the DNZ products and they look nice, but it looks like all their bases have the rings integrated into them. I like having having the option of changing rings for different scopes while leaving the base on the rifle.

 

[42769vette]

The scope and use dictates if and how much can't is required. Don't pick a base or rings before picking a scope.

the part is not as simple as you would think. Tolerance's and metering used typically dictate price.

 

[42769vette]

That said, having a 20MOA base on won't hurt anything.

not always. There are a lot of scopes being produced today with 30-40 moa travel. If you buy a good scope it never hurts to have 20 moa. If you buy one with 30 moa travel your rifle won't zero closer than 200 yds.

 

[phylodog]

not always. There are a lot of scopes being produced today with 30-40 moa travel. If you buy a good scope it never hurts to have 20 moa. If you buy one with 30 moa travel your rifle won't zero closer than 200 yds.

My bad. I didn't realize anyone made scopes with that little travel but I admittedly don't pay much attention to the lower third of the market.

 

[Gun Chooter]

The scope and use dictates if and how much can't is required. Don't pick a base or rings before picking a scope.
the part is not as simple as you would think. Tolerance's and metering used typically dictate price.

Im looking to go with a vortex scope 4-16 power in the 4-500 dollar range. EGW 20 moa base (?) with burris XTR rings.

 

[42769vette]

Im looking to go with a vortex scope 4-16 power in the 4-500 dollar range. EGW 20 moa base (?) with burris XTR rings.

Vortex 4-16 could have 50-80 MOA travel. In the 400-500 dollar range it could have 60-80. If your looking at a 50 moa model your cutting it pretty close if you get a 20 moa base but it should work. If your looking at a 80MOA model you would be fine no matter what base you get.

It it were me I would bump my budget just a touch and go with the Viper HST 4-16 priced at 559, EGW 20 MOA base, and Warne maxima rings (same money as XTR and almost 2x the durability.

 

[Ryninger]

Vette,
To avoid making an assumption, Do you also sell Warne rings?

 

[42769vette]

Vette,
To avoid making an assumption, Do you also sell Warne rings?

I sell Warne and XTR.

 

[Gun Chooter]

Vortex 4-16 could have 50-80 MOA travel. In the 400-500 dollar range it could have 60-80. If your looking at a 50 moa model your cutting it pretty close if you get a 20 moa base but it should work. If your looking at a 80MOA model you would be fine no matter what base you get.

It it were me I would bump my budget just a touch and go with the Viper HST 4-16 priced at 559, EGW 20 MOA base, and Warne maxima rings (same money as XTR and almost 2x the durability.

I did a search on bases before creating this post and read several recommendations of the warne maximas. They looked a bit thin and sleek to be so durable. Is it in the way they designed them differently to clamp down side to side?

 

[Ryninger]

I sell Warne and XTR.

Good to know!

 

[tradertator]

What do you plan to do with your Remington? I know you said you're probably going to be shooting withIn 300 yards, but there's a big difference in a paper puncher vs a sporting rig. My range toys / long distance stuff is setup completely different from that which I would take in a hunt.
On a long range setup, I want steel rings and a tapered (20 MOA) steel base. I feel like the steel base on a steel receiver, and steel rings gives me a much more rigid base for the optic vs something like aluminum. And since I'll have the time to adjust for drop with a long range rig, the added elevation is nice with a tapered base. The exception is my one Remington 700 with a Leupold M3A, because it requires a flat base since the taper is built into the optic. On almost anything else that's good quality though, your optic should have enough adjustment to zero your rifle @ 100 meters with a 20 minute base. I'm a big fan of Badger Ordnance, and always use their rings and bases on a precision setup. Their stuff is top notch, and they have awesome customer service, although you'll probably never need it.

On a hunting rig, I'm either using holdovers with my reticle, or just good old Kentucky Windage because your target is not likely to sit still while you crank on your optics. On something like that, I favor a non tapered mount that is as low as possible. I still prefer steel on this sort of setup for durability since these types of rifles can take a beating, but you can cut some weight if you go with aluminum. Personally, my favorite non tapered base / steel ring combo is the Leupold Dual Dovetails.

 

[Gun Chooter]

What do you plan to do with your Remington? I know you said you're probably going to be shooting withIn 300 yards, but there's a big difference in a paper puncher vs a sporting rig. My range toys / long distance stuff is setup completely different from that which I would take in a hunt.
On a long range setup, I want steel rings and a tapered (20 MOA) steel base. I feel like the steel base on a steel receiver, and steel rings gives me a much more rigid base for the optic vs something like aluminum. And since I'll have the time to adjust for drop with a long range rig, the added elevation is nice with a tapered base. The exception is my one Remington 700 with a Leupold M3A, because it requires a flat base since the taper is built into the optic. On almost anything else that's good quality though, your optic should have enough adjustment to zero your rifle @ 100 meters with a 20 minute base. I'm a big fan of Badger Ordnance, and always use their rings and bases on a precision setup. Their stuff is top notch, and they have awesome customer service, although you'll probably never need it.

On a hunting rig, I'm either using holdovers with my reticle, or just good old Kentucky Windage because your target is not likely to sit still while you crank on your optics. On something like that, I favor a non tapered mount that is as low as possible. I still prefer steel on this sort of setup for durability since these types of rifles can take a beating, but you can cut some weight if you go with aluminum. Personally, my favorite non tapered base / steel ring combo is the Leupold Dual Dovetails.

Im mostly planning to use the 700 as a hunting rifle for coyotes and gophers out west. I've heard there's a possability of legally deer hunting with this round next year so there's always that chance as well. So that's where the 1-300 yard number came to mind. Every now and again I'd like to play at longer ranges (on paper) if I get the opportunity and space to spread out. No plans of competition shooting really. So I guess somewhere between a hunter and precision rifle but favoring hunting within 300. I'd like to have a little more rifle/scope than what I need now so I can grow into it as I learn.

 

[42769vette]

I did a search on bases before creating this post and read several recommendations of the warne maximas. They looked a bit thin and sleek to be so durable. Is it in the way they designed them differently to clamp down side to side?

Its a meterial issue, steel vs aluminum.

 

[rugertoter]

Looking for some schooling on scope bases. I'm going to be in the market for a new scope for my remington 700 chambered in .308 in the near future. I'm going to get a jump on things by picking up a base and rings. Pretty much have the rings picked out, but have a few questions about bases. My main question is about the built in moa. I understand the reasoning but at what distance does your target need to be before you need this extra 20moa? I plan to shoot between 1-300 yards when I get my build complete. I'm also looking for recommendations on a quality base at an affordable price. After looking around I like the looks of the EGW bases.

I really can't see you needing an adjustable set of bases for 300 yards. I have a model 700, in .30-06, and I went ahead and bought the Remington one-piece bases, that are specifically made for the model 700. I used blue locktite when I mounted them, and they are rock solid.

I have shot mine to 300 yards, and had no problems with not enough scope adjustment for getting the rounds in the center of my target.

 

[tradertator]

Im mostly planning to use the 700 as a hunting rifle for coyotes and gophers out west. I've heard there's a possability of legally deer hunting with this round next year so there's always that chance as well. So that's where the 1-300 yard number came to mind. Every now and again I'd like to play at longer ranges (on paper) if I get the opportunity and space to spread out. No plans of competition shooting really. So I guess somewhere between a hunter and precision rifle but favoring hunting within 300. I'd like to have a little more rifle/scope than what I need now so I can grow into it as I learn.

I would go with a canted base then, no more than 20 MOA. That way you can grow into the rifle, and have plenty of elevation adjustment out to even 1000 yards with most optics.

I really can't see you needing an adjustable set of bases for 300 yards. I have a model 700, in .30-06, and I went ahead and bought the Remington one-piece bases, that are specifically made for the model 700. I used blue locktite when I mounted them, and they are rock solid.

I have shot mine to 300 yards, and had no problems with not enough scope adjustment for getting the rounds in the center of my target.

What is an "an adjustable set of bases"?

 

[42769vette]

What is an "an adjustable set of bases"?

They exist, a company (trying to recall the name) about a year ago sent me a set in hopes that I would promote them. It is basically a scope base that sets up about 3/4 inch off the receiver and has a large wheel on the side. You dial it just like you would a scope. The one I had went from 0-30 MOA. IMO its one of the stupidest ideas I've ever had pitched to me (notice I have not started promoting them).