How crazy are you? Load Data for .223

[jedi]

I have been reloading for .223 with AA230 only so far with 55gr FMJ bullets.
When I was working up what load my rifle liked I did 10 rds of AA230 at various powder levels.
I did 22.5 to 24.7gr in increments of .2grs
My rifle liked 23.2gr the best.

This was the first time reloading for .223.
What I don't recall/have data notes on was the trim to lenght. I know I checked each of the cases (once fired commerical brass used in my AR-15) to ensure it was below the MAX of 1.760 and tried to get them as close to 1.750 but the brass was ranging from 1.755 to 1.748 IIRC.

Now I plan on using H335 and again will be 10 rds at various powder levels.
However here is where I'm not sure which way to go/if it matters.

I have a batch of brass (range pick up) that is all at 1.750 already, trim to lenght.
I also have a batch of brass (the same brass from before; this would be the 3rd time fired, 2nd time reloaded) but it ranges from 1.755 to 1.749, trim to lenght. Its only been fired from my ar.

So would which brass would you use and why?
This is for plinking Project Appleseed targets on the 25 and 100 yard ranges.
I only have enough H335 to do this test once for now.

In the end when I reload again for this AR so long as the brass is under the max and above the min I will load for it based on what I find here today either with aa2230 or h335. For that reason I'm thinking go with the 3rd time fired brass. However, the compolusive part of me says remove the trim to lenght variable from the equation to know which powder level is best (granted not all the brass is from the same maker so their might be slight differences and thus why i wanted to use the 3rd time fired brass which is all from the same maker and has only been thru my rifle.

So which way would you go?


××××Edited to clean up grammer and used correct terms.

 

[Leo]

Any brass that is between 1.750 and 1.760 would be fine. Three times reloaded brass that has been shot in your rifle will not be a problem. If you size a piece of brass so the shoulder is way short and shoot it in a chamber that is way loose, you can over stress a piece of brass and have case head seperation. When I was a very serious competitor I would buy new brass and shoot it five times before I got rid of it. I never had a single case fail in 12 years.

Here is my opinion, based on what I have done multiple times.
If you check your pet load against the data and see where the favorite load shot the best. ie: is it near the bottom of the range, the middle, or right at max?
I would find the range for the new powder and lean my load to a similar end of the range.


You are only shooting 100 yards. The difference between loads is usually not significant that close in.

Good Luck, Have fun.

 

[indyjohn]

You are only shooting 100 yards. The difference between loads is usually not significant that close in.

Good Luck, Have fun.

I KNOW you're not knocking the OP, Leo. But I just have to smile when I am reminded that SR, MR, & LR are just a matter of perspective... and experience.

 

[Yeah]

Brass FF'd to your chamber is always a better choice that which has not been, unless something ridiculous is being done during the sizing operation.

 

[Leo]

.

 

[Leo]

I KNOW you're not knocking the OP, Leo. But I just have to smile when I am reminded that SR, MR, & LR are just a matter of perspective... and experience.

You are completely correct, no slam, I just didn't want my friend to worry about things that are not significant to his use.

I remember when someone told me the bullet cannot tell how far the target is, and it cannot protest. So all we have to do is send it there. It was like a light clicked on.

 

[gunbunnies]

For accuracy I would try to load brass from the same manufacturer and lot number because the internal dimensions of that brass will be the closest to each other in the lot. Range brass is fine for shooting ammo cheap but since there is no way to tell if the pieces of brass that you picked up are from the same lot number even if they are marked from the same manufacturer there will probably be un-see able difference in dimensions which will produce differences in impact. One point of interest in reloading 223 or 5.56 brass is not knowing which is which when picking up range brass, so all loads should be for a 223 cartridge to keep pressures in check. As you go up in charge weight always watch the spent primer in the case to see if the primer form can still be seen from the brass cases pocket. If the primer and brass look melted together and really flat then you have reached a high pressure sign which means to back off the charge weight.

 

[Broom_jm]

Are you seating and crimping in one operation? Which crimping die are you using?

I certainly favor brass fired from my rifle, but if you're crimping it makes sense to use brass that is all of the same length.

 

[jedi]

Are you seating and crimping in one operation? Which crimping die are you using?

I certainly favor brass fired from my rifle, but if you're crimping it makes sense to use brass that is all of the same length.

Using LEE dies for eveyrthing on a single stage press (RCBS Rock C).
1) Deprimining and resizing
2) Cleaning to rmeove imperial wax lube put on during step 1
3) Checking trim and trimming as needed
4) Hand primming
5) Powder drop via RCBS Uniflow
6) Seating
7) Crimping with Lee FCD

 

[rvb]

What I don't recall/have data notes on was the trim to lenght.
....
Now I plan on using H335 and again will be 10 rds at various powder levels.

So would which brass would you use and why?
This is for plinking Project Appleseed targets on the 25 and 100 yard ranges.

I would trim it all to 1.750 max, put 25.0 of h335 under your 55s, and go shoot. more than good enough for "plinking and appleseed" use. Mix all the brass together and I bet you still end up well under 2moa.

-rvb

 

[Yeah]

One point of interest in reloading 223 or 5.56 brass is not knowing which is which when picking up range brass, so all loads should be for a 223 cartridge to keep pressures in check.

As always, this kind of thing is complete gibberish and disconnected from reality.

 

[gunbunnies]

Yeah, I'm interested in your explanation.... Can you enlighten me ?

 

[jedi]

Update went back and trimmed the twice fired pmc brass got the batch of 100 to 1.752 to 1.750.
Then i hand printed them with ease.

Next i got bold and took the 1.750 mixed range pick up brass and hand primed those.
NEVER AGAIN! (I say right now)
Ran into a 8 in the batch of 100 that i could not get the primer on. Too tight. Military something i think is what you call it. All that brass was labeled LC. I don't have the tool to make the primer hole a bit bigger.
Worse one of those cases got stuck in my lee tool and the primer was 1/2 into the case.

It was a royal xxxxxx to get it out without setting off the primer. I eventually did but ruined the case.
In addition some of these cases were hard and others very lose in the primer hole.
I got them done but not real happy with them.

I think I'll stick to the pmc only brass fired From this rifle.
Tomorrow it's powder time.

 

[gunbunnies]

I've got a tool for those primer pockets if you ant to use it....

 

[jedi]

For now I'm good.
Right now just mad about the whole issue.

 

[rvb]

Ran into a 8 in the batch of 100 that i could not get the primer on. Too tight. Military something i think is what you call it. All that brass was labeled LC. I don't have the tool to make the primer hole a bit bigger.

lake City w. A crimped primer. While yes there are special tools for removing the crimp you can also just hand twist a drill bit or even scrape the edge w. A pocket knife to remove the small amount of brass that's flowed over the top edge of the primer pocket. Quick and easy.

-rvb

 

[Litlratt]

At 100 yards shooting 55 FMJs, lots of brass and trim length should not be a concern of yours.

 

[sloughfoot]

As always, this kind of thing is complete gibberish and disconnected from reality.

Totally agree. There is no difference between .223 and 5.56 brass. Even sorting by headstamp doesn't accomplish anything. For precision, brass must be weighed and except for Remington brass, you will see wide variations in case capacity. Even brass with the same headstamp.

And as others have said, for 100 yards none of this matters. The bullets are rising at 100 yards. It only starts to matter at 300 yards or more because the bullet is descending into the target starting about 260 yards.

And as long as brass is under maximum, length does not matter unless you are crimping.

 

[jedi]

Off topic slightly.
So when i start to shoot at say 300 to 500 yards with a heavier bullet in this rifle at that point i should try and use the same brass maker all at the same trim to lenght.

 

[indyblue]

Totally agree. There is no difference between .223 and 5.56 brass. Even sorting by headstamp doesn't accomplish anything. For precision, brass must be weighed and except for Remington brass, you will see wide variations in case capacity. Even brass with the same headstamp.

And as others have said, for 100 yards none of this matters. The bullets are rising at 100 yards. It only starts to matter at 300 yards or more because the bullet is descending into the target starting about 260 yards.

And as long as brass is under maximum, length does not matter unless you are crimping.

If there is no difference, then why are all my empty 5.56 (PMC X-TAC) cases a slight bit heavier (.05 - .2 gr) than all my .223 brass (PMC Bronze)? Admittedly It could be powder residues left inside, but I wouldn't expect the residue to weigh that much different.