.357 Sig ==A little help here....

[billybob44]

I've loaded handgun/rifle loads for 45+ years, but have not loaded a "Bottle Neck" pistol case before??

I have brass, projectiles, dies on their way.
The two main things from what I gather are case neck tension, and headspace, that give the most problems on this caliber.

I have Montana Gold 125gr. Sig projectiles on their way.

I've read it two different ways-Headspace on case mouth--Headspace on shoulder??

From what I can tell, my barrel will be the best indicator of headspace??

What say you INGO??

THANKS in advance..Bill.

 

[Jim McKalip]

Hi Bill,
Yes, your barrel, dummy rounds and the "plunk" test is the way I did it. If it chambers and seats flush, your headspace is good to go.Your only control of neck tension is the amount of crimp you use. Give the bullet a good push and make sure it doesn't slip further into the case. When you load your mag, shoot all but 1 or 2. Check them for setback.

Good luck..Jim

 

[oldpink]

Not to be a "me too," but Jim said it right.
Bottleneck cartridges, .357 Sig included, normally headspace on the shoulder.
The exception would be belted magnums, which is one of the reasons why the fairly new generation of bottleneck magnum rifle cartridges were introduced without the superfluous case head belt.
Only certain straight wall magnums, such as .458 Winchester, or bottleneck cases with a shallow shoulder angle such as .300 H&H, need the belt.
As Jim hinted, full length size just enough to reliably chamber and no more than that to ensure good headspace.
The very short neck of the .357 Sig is said to make case getting proper neck tension more challenging than with many other cartridges.
Since it headspaces on the shoulder, I'd highly recommend the Lee Factory Crimp die for your crimp - Graf & Sons - LEE 357 SIG FACTORY CRIMP DIE - Graf & Sons
Normally, I consider most of Lee's products still good, but sort of economy equipment, but their Factory Crimp Die is outstanding, especially for handgun loading.

 

[billybob44]

Hi Bill,
Yes, your barrel, dummy rounds and the "plunk" test is the way I did it. If it chambers and seats flush, your headspace is good to go.Your only control of neck tension is the amount of crimp you use. Give the bullet a good push and make sure it doesn't slip further into the case. When you load your mag, shoot all but 1 or 2. Check them for setback.

Good luck..Jim

Great info Jim-Yeah, I'm a believer of the "Plunk Test"..I am going to bevel the case mouths, rather than expand the case mouth, to try to hold the neck tension. Firm crimp to follow..

Not to be a "me too," but Jim said it right.
Bottleneck cartridges, .357 Sig included, normally headspace on the shoulder.
The exception would be belted magnums, which is one of the reasons why the fairly new generation of bottleneck magnum rifle cartridges were introduced without the superfluous case head belt.
Only certain straight wall magnums, such as .458 Winchester, or bottleneck cases with a shallow shoulder angle such as .300 H&H, need the belt.
As Jim hinted, full length size just enough to reliably chamber and no more than that to ensure good headspace.
The very short neck of the .357 Sig is said to make case getting proper neck tension more challenging than with many other cartridges.
Since it headspaces on the shoulder, I'd highly recommend the Lee Factory Crimp die for your crimp - Graf & Sons - LEE 357 SIG FACTORY CRIMP DIE - Graf & Sons
Normally, I consider most of Lee's products still good, but sort of economy equipment, but their Factory Crimp Die is outstanding, especially for handgun loading.

Thanks OP--Yeah, I DO have a Lee Factory Crimp Die on it's way also.
I, like you, am NOT a real Lee Fanboy, but I DO have several FCD's in handgun calibers. My handgun dies are Dillon, my rifle dies are Redding, and RCBS.
Most of my handgun loads done on a Dillon RL550, most of my rifle loads done on an older RCBS RockChucker.

From what I gather, the Montana Gold 125gr. Sig bullet, along with a FEW others offer the "Straight" sidewalls, rather than the normal taper on most 9MM bullets, to help hold the neck tension..

I think?? that the Lee FCD will help on the tight crimp without pushing the shoulder back on this "Jet"..Bill.

 

[AmmoManAaron]

I'd highly recommend the Lee Factory Crimp die for your crimp - Graf & Sons - LEE 357 SIG FACTORY CRIMP DIE - Graf & Sons
Normally, I consider most of Lee's products still good, but sort of economy equipment, but their Factory Crimp Die is outstanding, especially for handgun loading.

^^^I came here to post this^^^

From what I gather, the Montana Gold 125gr. Sig bullet, along with a FEW others offer the "Straight" sidewalls, rather than the normal taper on most 9MM bullets, to help hold the neck tension..

I think?? that the Lee FCD will help on the tight crimp without pushing the shoulder back on this "Jet"..Bill.

Good bullet choice for firm crimp. The Lee FCD for .357 Sig should not give you any shoulder problems at all. Once you look inside one these while in operation you'll see why - they are very cool.

 

[billybob44]

Thanks for the help-Keep the info flowing..

Good stuff guys..I'm pretty sure a Wilson case gauge is also in order...Been using the barrel, but you can not get a good "Plunk" test on a round that headspaces on the shoulder..

Keep the GREAT Info coming ..

Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold TL356-124-TC 9mm Luger 38 Super 380 ACP (356
^^^ Thought this would work, with Powder Coat Paint applied..I am now powder coating now with GREAT success..

Let me know what you think..Bill.

 

[bocefus78]

Wish I could help bill. Necked pistol cartridges are above my pay grade.

 

[billybob44]

Wish I could help bill. Necked pistol cartridges are above my pay grade.

I KNOW the feeling, BO.....

I even had one of our INGO Reloading Pro's tell me this last week that He would not even mess with selling Sig handloads..Told His customers to buy at Wal-Mart...HA HA HA...

I love to take a challenge ....Bill.

 

[Ericpwp]

Good stuff guys..I'm pretty sure a Wilson case gauge is also in order...Been using the barrel, but you can not get a good "Plunk" test on a round that headspaces on the shoulder..

Keep the GREAT Info coming ..

Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold TL356-124-TC 9mm Luger 38 Super 380 ACP (356
^^^ Thought this would work, with Powder Coat Paint applied..I am now powder coating now with GREAT success..

Let me know what you think..Bill.

I thought the cast and plated stuff would not work as well with the velocities of .357 sig.

 

[oldpink]

I KNOW the feeling, BO.....

I even had one of our INGO Reloading Pro's tell me this last week that He would not even mess with selling Sig handloads..Told His customers to buy at Wal-Mart...HA HA HA...

I love to take a challenge ....Bill.

Other INGOers before you have successfully tackled loading .357 Sig, so I'm confident that you'll get the hang of it.
The Wilson gauge sounds like a good investment, too.
Considering the great expense of factory ammo for this cartridge, rolling your own should be particularly worthwhile.
Good luck.

 

[tat2clod]

Perfect example of like minded individuals sharing knowledge to help each other, while I'm not gathering dies yet .357 Sig is my next caliber to be added. Very helpful indeed thanks.

 

[Jim McKalip]

I question the need for a case gauge as the .357 Sig is not a "target" load.

My procedure is stupidly simple: size the body with a carbide .40 S&W die, the neck with a steel .357 Sig die (no lube needed), neck expand and charge with the Dillon neck die, seat with die of your choice and crimp with the Lee FC die.

No strain, no pain, no hassle.

The 2 step sizing is a pain but saves the hassle and cost of the Dillon die. I've heard that you also have to lube cases with the Dillon die.

 

[billybob44]

REALLY--Not to OVER THINK this....HA HA....

I question the need for a case gauge as the .357 Sig is not a "target" load.
I agree, Jim. My use of the Sig is for performance on a "9MM" projectile. With a L.E. Wilson gauge there are two steps @ the top of the gauge, or a Min/Max if you will. A handloader will adjust the die (the die that sets the 9MM tension) to push back the shoulder JUST enough for the proper headspace. I used my homemade case lube on clean cases, ran cases through my Dillon .40 S&W/10MM size die, and back into case cleaner. I then ran the body sized cases through my RCBS steel .357 Sig die.
I did the best that I could, but there is NO way to tell if the shoulder is pushed back enough, or TOO much, with the "Plunk Test"

My procedure is stupidly simple: size the body with a carbide .40 S&W die, the neck with a steel .357 Sig die (no lube needed), neck expand and charge with the Dillon neck die, seat with die of your choice and crimp with the Lee FC die.
I did the same except I did not expand the case, just a bevel inside of neck. Single stage powder, seat, Lee FCD crimp.

No strain, no pain, no hassle.

The 2 step sizing is a pain but saves the hassle and cost of the Dillon die. I've heard that you also have to lube cases with the Dillon die.

I DO take the extra time/work to lube ALL cases. When I run Dillon (Carbide) dies I use my homemade case lube, and then tumble again...Yep, and extra step..YEP a LOT easier on the 'Ole' arm...HA HA...Bill.