Reloading Bench Build Thread

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  • Doublehelix

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    I have started on my Reloading Bench build project, and thought I would share my experiences here in the hope that it might help others that are starting on the same journey or are needing a bench upgrade. I will try to outline the mistakes I made and things that I modified as I went along to accommodate my needs.

    NEEDS: I wanted a bench that was extremely sturdy, I did not want to deal with a flimsy setup that might impact my reloading consistency. I also wanted something large enough to make reloading convenient, but since it is going to be located in such a small room, I needed something that was not so large that it could not fit in my small 10x10 room. I did want something large enough however so I could spread out a bit, and I also wanted the bench to be able to double as my gun cleaning/building/repairing bench.

    One caveat up front: I am NOT a carpenter!!! This is *not* going to be a pretty bench, and there are going to be mistakes that need to be compensated for since my carpentry skills and tools sets are lacking, that is for sure. I have seen some amazing benches in the Sticky Thread at the top of the Reloading Forum. This is NOT going to be one of them!!! It will be very basic, and fairly ugly compared to some of the great-looking benches that my INGO brethren have created.

    I used the free plans that are readily available online from the National Reloading Manufacturers Association:

    https://www.shotgunsportsmagazine.com/downloads/bench_plans.pdf

    ~and~

    https://sites.google.com/site/grassrocketranch/the-nrma-reloading-bench


    There are other plans available, but this one seemed pretty steady and easy enough to build that even I could do it! After getting into the build, I noticed that the bench was WAY too tall for me, even as a standing bench. The plans claim that it will be "waist-high for someone who is 6'2", and since I am only 5'10", this makes it too tall for ease of use for someone of my size. My "regular" workbench in the garage is 36.5" which is great height for me when standing, and when assembled according to the plans, the reloading bench is over 42" tall. I ended up whacking off 5" from the legs to make it easier to work with.

    Another change I made to the plans is to substitute MDF wood for plywood for the bench top. lower shelf, sides and back. My initial thoughts were that MDF is much smoother and splinter-free. The downsides to MDF is that it is heavy, the corners can disintegrate when hit on the ground during construction, and water can penetrate and warp the wood. I have sealed the MDF in several coats of polyurethane to help with the water-proofing, but if I were to do it again, I would go with plywood (and in fact, I may end up replacing the top and shelf someday depending on how it lasts).

    As of this writing, I have not yet started on the upper cabinet/shelf assembly, but I am sure that I am going to modify its design significantly when I get there. I don't really care for some of the design elements, and I am still working on suitable design ideas.

    The total cost of the wood and hardware was $106 at Lowe's (September 2016).

    Finally, I am going to be assembling the bench in the garage, and will have to partially disassemble the unit to get it down the stairs and into the room where it will eventually live. It is way too wide to fit through a standard doorway. The way the plans are written, I can just remove the carriage bolts from the corners of the top and the lower shelf and it should come apart relatively easily. This allows me to measure and drill the large 3/8" holes for the carriage bolts in the garage and make my mess out there, and then just do a quick disassembly/move/reassembly when I am done.

    OK! Onto the build itself!!!
     

    rvb

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    Another change I made to the plans is to substitute MDF wood for plywood for the bench top. lower shelf, sides and back. My initial thoughts were that MDF is much smoother and splinter-free. ... I have sealed the MDF in several coats of polyurethane to help with the water-proofing, but if I were to do it again, I would go with plywood (and in fact, I may end up replacing the top and shelf someday depending on how it lasts).

    I used melamine. Wipes up very easily. Didn't have to mess with poly. small gun parts, etc stand out on the white.
    Suggest putting a double layer top on. two 3/4" layers glued/screwed takes a lot of the bounce out.

    -rvb

    View attachment 50268
     

    Doublehelix

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    As Broom_jm said in another thread: "A pile of lumber...that's how it always starts!". Here is my pile of cut lumber:



    After these pieces were cut, I spent a couple of hours with my electric sander getting things smoothed out/ the 4x4's were especially nasty and rough. These pieces were all cut on my compound miter saw, even the 4x4's which I wondered if they would fit. Thankfully, they did so I did not have to cut one side, then flip the wood over to cut the other side.

    All of the MDF (or plywood) I had cut at Lowe's except for a few small cuts that I made with my circular saw. I was surprised at how accurate they were. They gave me 2 cuts for free, and then I paid $1 a cut for the next 5 cuts, so it cost me $5 to have the plywood cut for me. This was totally worth it since I could not fit the large 4' x 8' sheets in my vehicle.

    The instructions are not very detailed, and they depend on close inspections of the drawings to figure things out.

    For example, the first two steps say this:

    STEP ONE: Saw all lumber and plywood for the bench. Doublecheck dimensions and sand any rough edges.Be sure to drill and countersink all screws.

    STEP TWO: Assemble the lower shelf frame using two 3"wood screws at each corner.

    By looking at the pictures carefully, here are some of the steps to creating the lower shelf frame. In addition to the wood screws, I liberally applied carpenter's glue to the joints for stability. I found that the large 3" wood screws that I bought to hold the bench together are really hard to screw in, even with a pilot hole. I found that by using a bit of WD-40 on the screw threads, they went in much easier. I used the big #14 screws in a 3" length which are probably larger than I really needed, but I wanted it to be sturdy. These huge screws required the large #3 Phillips bit for my driver. In the picture below, you can see how the screw heads are slightly stripped. This is before the WD-40 and I was only using a #2 Phillips bit. Once I switched to the #3 bit and WD-40, the screws went in without issue. I actually removed these 2 screws and replaced them once I figured out the best method (I told you I wasn't a carpenter, I have to learn as I go!).




    And then the final lower shelf frame:




    STEP THREE: Saw a 31/2"x31/2"notch at both rearcorners of the lower shelf of plywood.Thiswill accommodatethe rear 4x4 legs.

    I used my trusty jig saw for this, and it worked fine and was pretty easy:






    STEP FOUR: Assemble the topframe. Saw a notch inthe two 2x6 piecesthat form the ends ofthe frame. Eachnotch should be 2"long and 1 1/2" deep.This accommodates the 2x6 front edge supportand allows for the necessary overhang (seephoto). Use two 3" woodscrews at each corner andto fasten the 2x6 front edge support.

    I also used the jig saw for the notches in the 2x6s:






    Now, once again by looking at the pictures, I started assembling the top frame (lots of glue, and the big 3" wood screws). This was a bit trickier, and I had to really study the pictures to get it assembled correctly.







     

    Doublehelix

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    STEP FIVE: Saw a notch into the top of both 4x4 front legs.No notch should be cut into the rear legs! The notch on the front legs is 1 1/2" deep from the topof the 4x4 and 2" from the side (see drawing).This will enable the leg to nest under the front2x6 edge support (see photo).

    This step was a bit harder since my jig saw blade would not go all the way through the 4x4, and I had to cut one side, then flip it over to cut the other side due to the thickness:





    Here is how they will fit together:




    STEP SIX: Turn the top frame upside-down on workbench orfloor and position all four legs. Using a 3/8" drill bit,drill holes through the frame and legs. Insert bolts,add washers and lightly tighten nuts.

    This step was pretty straight-forward, except my drill bit was not long enough to go all the way through the 2x4 and then the 4x4. No biggie, this just made it a two-step process.






    The next step was to stain the wood. Not necessary, but I felt I wanted a little color, and it made the look more consistent from piece to piece. I used Minwax Ipswitch Pine 221, only because the the frame wood was all pine, and I thought it was the best look for this setup.








    The stain did not soak in that well to the MDF at first as you can see in this image, but after setting overnight, it was much better:




    Next up is the polyurethane coating. Here is the MDF after the first coat. I painted all of the pieces including the frames. I have a couple of more coats to add to the bench top and shelves still:




    That is where I stopped this weekend. I will add a few more coats of the polyurethane over the next couple of days, and then continue the construction. No more new pictures for a couple of days...
     

    Doublehelix

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    I used melamine. Wipes up very easily. Didn't have to mess with poly. small gun parts, etc stand out on the white.
    Suggest putting a double layer top on. two 3/4" layers glued/screwed takes a lot of the bounce out.

    I like it! Thanks for the suggestion. I am not real happy with the MDF, although the Melamine is also press board, the laminate top is nice. I will take a look and see what I can find before I go much further. I am not really happy with the choice of MDF.
     

    romack991

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    Looks good! The NRMA bench design is great. Very sturdy. I anchored mine to the wall and you can't budge it. Definitely customize it to your preferred height. And if your room is small decide how far you want it sticking out from the wall. I ended up with 24" deep including an 8" shelf so 16" of usable bench depth. After that optimize the shelving height for the containers you plan on using. On the bottom, I made two shelves tall enough for ammo cans or double stacked plastic containers. On the top, I used tracks so I can adjust the shelves as needed. Mostly based on component heights like powder cans, die boxes, etc. I didn't bother with any of the doors as it seemed like a bunch of extra work for little gain. Once the bench is set up, consider making a plate with a common bolt pattern. That allows you to move and swap presses, trimmers, a vise, etc.

    View attachment 50304 View attachment 50297
     

    Doublehelix

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    Looks good! The NRMA bench design is great. Very sturdy. I anchored mine to the wall and you can't budge it. Definitely customize it to your preferred height. And if your room is small decide how far you want it sticking out from the wall. I ended up with 24" deep including an 8" shelf so 16" of usable bench depth. After that optimize the shelving height for the containers you plan on using. On the bottom, I made two shelves tall enough for ammo cans or double stacked plastic containers. On the top, I used tracks so I can adjust the shelves as needed. Mostly based on component heights like powder cans, die boxes, etc. I didn't bother with any of the doors as it seemed like a bunch of extra work for little gain. Once the bench is set up, consider making a plate with a common bolt pattern. That allows you to move and swap presses, trimmers, a vise, etc.

    Wow, now that is cool to see the same bench finished! I love that you added a second shelf below the bench. I am not sure if I will do that or not however as I might store my tumbler there and other tall items. Like you, I had planned on making the shelves on top adjustable. I was just looking at some pilaster strips at Menard's so that I could do the same thing. You did a really fantastic job on your bench, must better than I can accomplish. Congratulations. It looks like a piece of furniture rather than a reloading bench! I am sort of embarrassed to continue now! You are a woodworker for sure, I am most certainly NOT.

    One problem I see... You have this weird-looking "blue thing" on the desk top. I will be a nice guy and take that off of your hands for you!!! :-) hehe...
     

    HubertGummer

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    If you are really going to change the top, I would look into MDO. (medium density overlay). It has thin MDF faces so you get the smoothness, but the core is plywood. Its very strong and it holds screws well.

    I do think the MDF will work fine though. it will be plenty strong when its screwed to the frame, plus the extra weight will make for a bench that feels solid.
     

    Doublehelix

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    If you are really going to change the top, I would look into MDO. (medium density overlay). It has thin MDF faces so you get the smoothness, but the core is plywood. Its very strong and it holds screws well.

    I do think the MDF will work fine though. it will be plenty strong when its screwed to the frame, plus the extra weight will make for a bench that feels solid.

    I was thinking of adding a laminate to the MDF or even adding a thin layer of a laminated pressboard to the top of the MDF. I will look into some MDO as well. Thanks for the suggestion.
     

    Doublehelix

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    Back at it again. Over the last few days, I added a couple of more coats of polyurethane to the top, lower shelf and to the side and rear panels. Now time for some more assembly:

    STEP SEVEN: With bench still upside-down, hold end panelsagainst legs so they are flush against the 2x6 endpieces. The edge of the end panel determinesthe bottom edge of the lower shelf frame. Markthe legs, then drill 3/8" holes for bolts in the legsand lower shelf frame.

    STEP EIGHT: Before bolting the lower frame to the legs, attachthe plywood shelf to the frame with 1 3/4" screws,then bolt the frame to the legs. Check to make sureall pieces are properly assembled, then tighten allbolts. Turn bench right-side up and attach theplywood top, end panels and back panel with 1 3/4"wood screws. Your bench is now complete!

    Here is the lower shelf attached to the frame. Screws every 8":




    Next, the lower shelf is bolted to the legs:




    After tightening up the bolts, the bench gets turned right-side-up, and I set the bench top on the top of the completed frame, but did not screw it down yet:






    Before I attach the bench top, the two side panels or the back panel, I am going to disassemble the bench so I can move it into the basement and into my new reloading room. I gotta say, it is not pretty, but it is built like a brick ____house! It is solid as a rock, and that is without the side or rear panels which should add some more stability, plus I will attach it to the wall studs once it is in place.

    PROBLEM: One of my boys is still using the room as a bedroom. His older brother just moved out to take his first "real job" in Iowa, so as soon as he finds an apartment and comes and gets all of his stuff, the younger brother will move into the larger room, and I will move my reloading stuff into the smaller room. I have no idea when that will happen. The older boy is staying with a friend until he get his own place, and he has been there 2 weeks now, and is still looking. He almost had a setup for a room mate, which would have been ideal, but that fell through at the last minute, so he is back to apartment hunting.

    The bench may stay in that condition for another week or two (ugh!) until the room becomes available. Frustrating, but this is life.

    In the mean time, I will probably start working on the upper cabinets/shelves.

    I'll post more when I have more to post.
     

    Doublehelix

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    We have bench!:D

    Looking good, sir.

    Why thank you! I am definitely not a carpenter, and I am painfully reminded of that with every step.


    I built that same bench and it works great for me.
    I didn't build the top cabinet though just some shelves.

    Seems to be pretty popular around here! I have looked through the reloading room sticky at the top of this forum, and there are a lot of benches that look very much like mine, so I am assuming they are the same or modified versions.

    I built my bench to spec size-wise, and it is YUGE! ;)

    I also plan on building the top shelves in a similar design to the plans, only with modified doors or none at all.

    Be a kind father. Box up your older son's things for him so that he doesn't have to (and set them aside).

    Ha! Trust me, I have considered it more than once!
     

    singlesix

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    Good looking bench and as for grown "kids" we all been there and done that, my youngest daughter was like a tick, she borrowed in and had to be plied loose. :):
     

    Broom_jm

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    Well begun is half-done! That will make a fine reloading bench, especially if you switch out to a stronger material for the top.
     

    RMC

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    You can check at Lowe's or Menards for any scratched kitchen counter tops. Sometimes they'll give them away to get rid of them.
     
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