Help me choose a sharpening system

[Ruffnek]

Sometimes INGO can be very frustrating. I just spent an hour looking up Mick Strider and Lynn Thompson because of an argument in a thread about a fake Benchmade, which I found on the third page of The Cutting Edge forum while browsing for an answer to this question. Please do me the favor of keeping this thread on track; I'm not sure I can handle another hour of research on things I couldn't care less about.

So I've recently become the proud owner of a Spyderco PM2. This is by far the highest quality knife I've ever owned. Up until now I've carried anything from gas station knives to a few of the sub-$40 Chinese Kershaws. They were decent but, the more I learned about what makes a quality knife, the more I realized that they weren't the greatest.

Now that I have a nice knife, I want to be able to keep it sharp and in good condition. I am horrible at judging angles and even worse at holding an angle once I've found it. Me and whetstones don't work well together so I figure life would be easier if I were to get a sharpening system that can make up for the finesse that I lack. My ultimate goal is to get that mirror edge, hair popping sharp. I've been looking at two different systems: the Lansky and the Sharpmaker. No matter which one I get, I will most likely also get this strop to finish the edge.

These two are close in price and similar in options. What I would get with each:

Lansky: Deluxe 5 Stone kit plus Super Sapphire stone

Sharpmaker: Sharpmaker plus Ultra Fine stones

This was touched on in another thread of mine but I'd like to dedicate a thread to finding what would be the best option for a beginner.

Also, I won't ruin my good knife; rest assured that I'll practice on cheaper blades and hone my technique before moving on to my good blade.

 

[M67]

Sandpaper using it as a strop FTW

 

[42769vette]

I use a wicked edge because I dont want to judge angles.

 

[Ruffnek]

I use a wicked edge because I dont want to judge angles.

That'd be nice but it's a bit outta my price range.

 

[Dean C.]

That'd be nice but it's a bit outta my price range.

Now how serious are you about getting a Mirror Edge then?

 

[Ruffnek]

Now how serious are you about getting a Mirror Edge then?

I'm serious, but my wallet disagrees.

 

[wesnellans]

FWIW, I'm about 2 years into my sharpening knowledge and still picking up new things, but here's what I've determined so far:

A hyper polished edge is useful for bragging rights and that's just about it. If you're using the knife, not just displaying it, for most uses - i.e., CUTTING and SLICING - a "micro-toothy" edge is preferable.

I've got the Lansky AND the Sharpmaker. I find that you'll have the dickens of a time getting any kind of consistency in your edge angles using the Lansky. Any guided system is by nature reliant upon being able to set the same angle every single time for every pass of the stone to achieve that straight bevel we seek. The Lansky system by design won't allow much consistency. When the factory directions include telling you you'll have to bend the rods by hand to try to get them straight, there's a bit of a clue.

All that being said, if you're wishing to keep the knife SHARP, and are not concerned with achieving the mirror edge, a Sharpmaker will do a great job acting as a touch up tool, best used, IMHO, to achieve and maintain a micro-bevel at the contact edge. Spyderco aims for a 15 degree edge angle (30 degree inclusive) from the factory. If you create and maintain a micro-bevel at the 40 degree setting using the Sharpmaker, you'll be carrying a nicely sharp knife that's easy to maintain.

Unless you can match the factory edge angle EXACTLY and CONSISTENTLY, you'll spend LOTS of time at each sharpening trying to re-grind your new, not-so-exact angle back into your edge, at least with the Lansky, and working your way through the stones. If you'll concern yourself with only creating and maintaining a micro-bevel, you'll have a much easier time.

And all of THAT being said, I'm now looking pretty seriously into the Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System and its upgrade kit (not the belt grinder one, I've also got that in the Ken Onion version, great way to use up lots of edge life in attaining an edge if you're not careful). The idea of essentially free-handing with a little cheater edge guide built in is my next interest.

And my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

[Ruffnek]

Thank you for a response. There once was a time when this thread would've been pages long by now.

 

[ilikeguns]

I use a lansky most of the time, have for years, and it keeps my knife shaving sharp, but it's not quick, and I agree with other poster the angle guide system is lacking and somewhat inconsistant, but more consistent than by hand with a whetstone if you aren't confident with one.

 

[Dean C.]

Based on you saying you are bad with freehand sharpening I would say stay away from the Sharpmaker personally as it does require a pretty steady hand to work and as outlined above it is primarily a "touch up" sharpener and not a true sharpener imho.

If you really do want to "chase the mirror" I honestly would suggest saving up for a wicked edge or something similar that uses a good clamp and the angles can be accurately measured (unlike the lansky system).

Depending on how you use your PM2 just a regular stripping should keep it serviceable untill you can get the sharpener you actually want. I personally recommend Fkexx strops myself.

Now back to the mirror polish , be prepared to spend allot on this chasing the mirror is one hell of an expensive hobby unless you learn to freehand and use allot of sandpaper and leather strops.

It may be off the deep end but if you do think you like higher end knives and will stay with the hobby for a while a good sharpening system like the wicked edge, or the edge pro could be a very worthwhile investment I know mine has paid for itself if you choose to do something like that. Again it just depends on what you want to do

Flexxx Strops

 

[Ruffnek]

What differentiates the Flexxx strop from the Knives Plus strop? Also, which particular model?

 

[rhino]

FWIW, I'm about 2 years into my sharpening knowledge and still picking up new things, but here's what I've determined so far:

A hyper polished edge is useful for bragging rights and that's just about it. If you're using the knife, not just displaying it, for most uses - i.e., CUTTING and SLICING - a "micro-toothy" edge is preferable.

I've got the Lansky AND the Sharpmaker. I find that you'll have the dickens of a time getting any kind of consistency in your edge angles using the Lansky. Any guided system is by nature reliant upon being able to set the same angle every single time for every pass of the stone to achieve that straight bevel we seek. The Lansky system by design won't allow much consistency. When the factory directions include telling you you'll have to bend the rods by hand to try to get them straight, there's a bit of a clue.

All that being said, if you're wishing to keep the knife SHARP, and are not concerned with achieving the mirror edge, a Sharpmaker will do a great job acting as a touch up tool, best used, IMHO, to achieve and maintain a micro-bevel at the contact edge. Spyderco aims for a 15 degree edge angle (30 degree inclusive) from the factory. If you create and maintain a micro-bevel at the 40 degree setting using the Sharpmaker, you'll be carrying a nicely sharp knife that's easy to maintain.

Unless you can match the factory edge angle EXACTLY and CONSISTENTLY, you'll spend LOTS of time at each sharpening trying to re-grind your new, not-so-exact angle back into your edge, at least with the Lansky, and working your way through the stones. If you'll concern yourself with only creating and maintaining a micro-bevel, you'll have a much easier time.

And all of THAT being said, I'm now looking pretty seriously into the Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System and its upgrade kit (not the belt grinder one, I've also got that in the Ken Onion version, great way to use up lots of edge life in attaining an edge if you're not careful). The idea of essentially free-handing with a little cheater edge guide built in is my next interest.

And my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it.

This is all excellent advice, particularly the part about highly polished edges. I cannot attest from experience anything about the Work Sharp, but I've seen excellent results from people who have a good grasp on how to use them effectively.

Thank you for a response. There once was a time when this thread would've been pages long by now.

Part of the reason I was not going to respond to this topic is because of your preachy admonition to stay on the topic of your choice. You have the right to say it, but it's just as irritating to people to be "told" stay on topic is it is for you to read messages that are off the original topic.

Getting back to sharpening systems, if you want simple, effective, and not too expensive, try one of the Razor Edge kits. https://www.razoredgesystems.com/products/kits

The best part of the Razor edge products are the education about what you really need to do make a cutting tool sharp. The Juranitch family knows what they're doing both in terms of the practical application of abrasives to sharpen as well as the concepts behind what makes an edge sharp and what makes an edge cut well.

Since you mentioned "mirror" edges, I would recommend that you consider why you want that. They're cosmetically appealing, there is no doubt! If you're sharpening a wood working tool or a razor for shaving, polished edges are appropriate and preferred. They will cut and carve wood and shave hair with less resistance and will stay sharp longer. In general, polished edges are great for push cutting. Unfortunately they not well suited for slicing, especially fibrous materials. As wesnellans mentioned, a "toothy" edge will slice better. You can get an edge that is both toothy enough for slicing like crazy, but is also keen enough pop hair. If you're good (and the edge has the right geometry), you can have a toothy edge that is still sharp enough treetop hair on your arm. A Buck 110 is an example of a knife that you can easily get to pop hair and still be rough enough to slice. A Spyderco PM2 (or any of their flat grind blades) are also good choices.

 

[TJ Kackowski]

I second the Razor Edge system. It's my go to system to put an edge on my knives. No mirror edge with the Razor Edge system, but a damn sharp knife each and every time.

When I need a quick edge on a kitchen knife, or when I visit the in-laws and they want a drawer full of inexpensive kitchen knives sharpened, I use a Work Sharp. No muss, no fuss with the Work Sharp, just a very serviceable edge in a very short amount of time.

I have no experience with the Sharpmaker system, but I abandoned the Lansky system once I found the Razor Edge system over 10 years ago.

If you do go with the Razor Edge system, save yourself some hassle and just work with the 8" hones. You'll need both sizes of guides, but I found the 6" hones to be useful on only the smallest blades, and then the guides were useless so I was free-handing the work.

Regardless of what system you start with, if you're serious about maintaining a sharp edge on your knives, you'll eventually experiment with several other systems. You learn a little bit more about the craft from each system tried, and when you apply the best from each, you'll end up with an edge you're proud to show off.

Best of success on your journey.

 

[bigbaloo95]

I have used the work sharp sander system for a couple of years now. I am terrible with judging angles and had used the lansky before with mixed results. The worksharp Is far more user friendly. Edge wear is an issue IF you are not careful but a sharp knife outweighs this for me.

 

[tradertator]

Part of the reason I was not going to respond to this topic is because of your preachy admonition to stay on the topic of your choice. You have the right to say it, but it's just as irritating to people to be "told" stay on topic is it is for you to read messages that are off the original topic.

 

[Ruffnek]

Part of the reason I was not going to respond to this topic is because of your preachy admonition to stay on the topic of your choice. You have the right to say it, but it's just as irritating to people to be "told" stay on topic is it is for you to read messages that are off the original topic.

Wasn't trying to **** anyone off or be "preachy," it was meant to be a joke. Part of the reason I love INGO is because I learn so many new things trying to research what people are talking about when threads derail. Sorry if anyone was offended.

 

[rhino]

Wasn't trying to **** anyone off or be "preachy," it was meant to be a joke. Part of the reason I love INGO is because I learn so many new things trying to research what people are talking about when threads derail. Sorry if anyone was offended.

Thanks for the clarification! I don't think offended was the right word, but it also did not appear to be a joke. All good now!

 

[oldpink]

I just never could get the hang of naturally maintaining a proper angle while using a conventional whetstone, so I finally settled on something that produces excellent results 100% of the time: GATCO diamond sharpening system, with the extra fine ceramic stone added to fill up the box to use for the last few strokes to burnish the edge

 

[indyjoe]

I've tried the Apex Edge Pro and really liked it. I'm seriously thinking about that for my next move. I also use a ceramic rod for quick touch ups of my chef's knife in the kitchen.

 

[Ruffnek]

So the Razor Edge system is basically just a guided whetstone sharpening system?