Blowing Down the Muzzle of a Muzzleloader: A Clarification And Education

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  • Wabatuckian

    Smith-Sights.com
    Site Supporter
    Industry Partner
    May 9, 2008
    3,062
    83
    Wabash
    Hello,

    In my thread "Here's Me Converting An Anti-Gunner" I was taken to task for blowing down my Kentucky Rifle's barrel.

    One person, ignorant of the reasons for this, has been taking me to task all day. He wasn't the only one to mention this seeming breech of firearms safety, but he's tenacious like bull and it's getting irritating.

    I'm sure there's others out there who do not know why I did this, so school is in :):

    Blackpowder is made up of charcoal, sulfur, and saltpeter. It's a low grade explosive which will flash at around 800°F.

    As such, it is prone to cook off.

    Black powder burns at about 50%. It is not efficient by any means. LOTS of fouling is left in the barrel, and lots comes out as smoke.

    The stuff left in the barrel is what we're concerned about here. If there's an ember left, the next charge will cook off when it's poured into the barrel. This has the potential to cause severe burns (imagine you're putting your face in live campfire embers - it's about like that). Having personally witnessed cook offs, I do not wish to experience one first hand.

    There are two methods of making sure there are no embers left: First, you can blow down the barrel to accelerate the burning. An example of this is to light a match and blow it out. If you keep it in still air, it will glow for a bit. However, if you blow on it, it will glow brightly and burn out.

    Second, swab the bore. Put a patch in your mouth to wet it, run it down the bore and back up, then follow with two dry patches. This has the added benefit of bringing some fouling with it.

    The latter is my preferred method, except for one thing: Patent breeches. The patent breech is, most of the time, a sub-caliber powder chamber breech plug. It is too small for the patch to enter. Another pain is not knowing for sure if a particular barrel has a patent breech.

    This can create a dangerous situation in which one believes he has swabbed out any embers, but in reality, there may be a live ember left in the firing chamber of a patent breech equipped barrel.

    I therefore do the following, as prescribed by old methods and traditions:

    1. I fire my muzzleloading rifle.

    2. After firing, I flip it around and blow down the barrel with the hammer at half cock. While not acceptable with breech loading arms, it has been done this way for hundreds of years with muzzleloading arms. It is done for safety, not in spite of safety.

    3. I then ground the butt and swab the barrel with one spit patch followed by two dry patches to remove fouling and double check any embers which may still be there after blowing down the muzzle. I recognize that there may still be live embers in the patent breech even by combining these two methods, especially when using combustible paper cartridges, so I

    4. keep the barrel angled away from me when I dump the fresh powder charge. You see, the process of loading a muzzleloader breaks many modern firearms rules.

    5. I then lay a patch over the barrel, then a ball over the patch, start the ball and patch, then ram home the patched ball, being very careful not to bend the ramrod. Bending a ramrod will lead to breaking the ramrod, which will then lead to a broken ramrod through the hand. Of course, it's not safe to remove said ramrod from the hand without the proper medical equipment, so if you've stuck the ramrod in the barrel as well, you may have to take a loaded rifle into the ER with you, unless, of course, you can cut it off at the muzzle. So be careful here, too. I like, and use, the one at Virtually Indestructible Ramrod - Muzzleloader . This helps minimize the risk.

    6. I repeat.

    When I got into muzzleloading, I was stunned that folks put barrels in their mouths and at some other practices in general. Growing up with smokeless rifles and shotguns, it was obvious that gun rules were being broken.

    Then, I realized that those gun rules were written for modern firearms. Heck, I don't even know who wrote them. While they still apply to modern arms, they do not all apply to muzzleloading arms, just as not all modern rifle rules apply to pistols (how many carry loaded, for example?)

    I digress, however. I'm outlining how to be safe with a muzzleloading arm, but the main point of this topic is how to keep blackpowder from blowing up in your face. Simply put, make damn sure the fire is out in the barrel. If you're not comfortable with blowing down the barrel, attach a piece of hose to the nipple and blow through that (a flintlock will require an adapter for this). IMO it's not as effective and has a higher risk of getting spit in the patent breech, causing a new set of problems, but it usually serves.

    Times to NEVER blow down the barrel are after a failure to fire -- it may be a hang fire or delayed fire, and will take your head off in a spectacularly gruesome manner -- or any time you suspect a charge in the barrel. Check this with a ramrod. The ramrod should be marked. If it's not, you've failed to do your job.

    I hope this clears up some misconceptions. I do not want to see anyone hurt. I am far from being an expert on the subject (I despise that word) but I've absorbed a lot from a bunch of old folks since September also. In fact, except for taking a couple squirrel for the pot, I've not touched my smokeless arms since getting my first muzzleloader, but I have gone through several pounds of powder and ball practicing what I'm taught.

    I welcome any questions here - and they do not have to be about traditional muzzleloaders only. If I cannot find the answer to a question, someone else will be able to answer it (especially with the inlines as I have no experience with those) or I will go find the answer.

    Josh
     
    Last edited by a moderator:

    thompal

    Master
    Sep 27, 2008
    3,545
    113
    Beech Grove
    Hello,

    In my thread "Here's Me Converting An Anti-Gunner" I was taken to task for blowing down my Kentucky Rifle's barrel.

    Thanks for the info. There was much there that I didn't know.

    How did soldiers in the War of Northern Aggression get around this issue when they were expected to maintain 3 rounds per minute rate of fire?
     

    dom1104

    Shooter
    Mar 23, 2010
    3,127
    36
    AAAAAAAAAAAAnd this would be why when I get a muzzle loader this year it will take smokeless powder :)

    What a pain in the BUTT.
     

    Wabatuckian

    Smith-Sights.com
    Site Supporter
    Industry Partner
    May 9, 2008
    3,062
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    Wabash
    Thanks for the info. There was much there that I didn't know.

    How did soldiers in the War of Northern Aggression get around this issue when they were expected to maintain 3 rounds per minute rate of fire?

    Hello,

    Unfortunately, from what I've read, they did not. There were a LOT of cook offs that wounded folks.

    It was the same in the Continental and British Armies. The accepted way to load a rocklock is to dump the powder down the bore, ram the ball down, and then prime LAST.

    To keep up a rate of fire acceptable to the military, paper or linen cartridges were used. The cartridge was torn open with the teeth. The pan was primed with that powder, then the remainder was dumped down the barrel. The wad and ball went next. (This loose fit did not contribute to the accuracy of the musket, a reputation which still holds today, though I know some folks are getting cloverleafs at 50 yards using their smoothbores and tightly patched balls.)

    This loading process was about speed, and cook offs and casualties from these cook offs were considered acceptable in exchange for speed. Wounds from speed loading were simply factored in.

    I would contend that it takes about two minutes or so to correctly load a muzzleloading rifle, observing all safety protocol including measuring the charge (charging from a horn or flask combined with a cook off will lead to the horn blowing up in your hand, taking most of your hand with it). Even if you just use a cut down brass cartridge for a measure, use something to dump the powder to keep from being hit with the rough equivalent of a grenade.

    Some old timers would put a ball in their hand, pour enough powder to cover that ball, remove the ball, and pour the powder down the barrel. That was considered the proper amount.

    Others would work up a load until a supersonic "crack" was heard. This was considered optimal by some. Whether it was known that this was the breaking of the sound barrier is the subject of some debate, but I would guess that no, this was not commonly known simply because it wasn't important to the average mountain man or trapper.

    Many (maybe most) new rifles were accompanied with a fixed powder measure that would hold the amount of powder used when the fixed sights were regulated by the gunsmith. This, along with the bullet mould used, would help ensure the accuracy of the rifle.

    Josh
     

    Wabatuckian

    Smith-Sights.com
    Site Supporter
    Industry Partner
    May 9, 2008
    3,062
    83
    Wabash
    AAAAAAAAAAAAnd this would be why when I get a muzzle loader this year it will take smokeless powder :)

    What a pain in the BUTT.

    Hello,

    I'm aware of only one muzzleloading rifle which will take smokeless, and that is the now-discontinued Savage 10ML II rifle. They had a habit of eroding the breech plug and blowing up.

    Black powder is charcoal, sulfur, and saltpeter.

    Pyrodex is charcoal, sulfur, and saltpeter with potassium perchlorate added.

    Triple Se7en is Pyrodex with the sulfur deleted (the Swiss played with something like this near the dawn of the smokeless age. They got to asking themselves why they bothered with adding sulfur. Turns out it made it ignite in flintlocks but was not needed with percussion caps. They deleted it, but it came too late as gun cotton took over).

    Blackhorn 209 seems to be a type of smokeless powder "with smoke added." It also advertises that it needs no immediate cleanup. It's supposed to be good stuff in inlines fired by a 209 primer, but I have no first hand experience.

    Shockey's Gold is inconsistent in my experience, and underpowered compared to true black powder. However, it is based on acetic acid and cleans very easily. I do not know the corrosive properties of Shockey's Gold as I've not been able to get APP to send me the MSDS for the stuff, though I've asked repeatedly. It was never really considered a good powder when it was American Pioneer, and it continues to suck.

    All info, except for that for Shockey's, comes directly from the MSDS data sheets which I have open in front of me: Goex, T7, P-Dex, and BH209.

    Josh
     
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