Yeah, I know I'm not eligible, but still wanted to share. 
This was actually written for my "SBR in-progress" thread.
Yesterday's weather was so gorgeous that I decided to spend my day off working with the SBR. Unfortunately lovemywoods wasn't available to join me, and neither were the 20 INGOers I sent a last-minute invite to.
So I ventured down to the range myself with a camera and a tripod.
My goals for this trip to the range were:
Upon arrival at the lovemywoods homestead I took over the reloading bench to work on the Noveske. Every screw or bolt that didn't come from the factory got a dose of blue Loctite and then reinstalled.
I picked up a dark brown paint pen from a local craft supply store to witness mark the screw heads. The paint matches the dark color of the DD MK18 rail and is very subdued.
If a screw were to come loose under sustained recoil I'd be able to detect it. But hopefully the Loctite does its job and it won't be an issue.
I also checked all bolts and screws that were installed at the factory and everything was nice and secure.
Then I moved on to inspecting my weaponlight setup. For the past several range sessions I've been using a Streamlight PT1L in a Haley Stragetic SBR mount. I chose this combo for its light weight and comparatively low cost.
A 9.5" rail doesn't leave much light mounting "rail-estate" for someone who prefers a forward support hand grip. Combine that with a 10.5" barrel that pokes out just forward of the rail and it further restricts light placement options. Because of this, the lens on the PT1L quickly became coated with residue, and the light's anodizing was literally blasted off.
There was a 3rd issue-- when clicked ON the light would only flash, but not stay on. Clicking again for OFF it flashed again. At first I thought it was totally busted, but then realized that the rear tailcap wasn't fully tightened down. I tightened it down and the light returned to normal operation. I tried to replicate this with my PT2L and it too reacted in the same manner.
That's all fine and good, but I'm still not thrilled that such a minor deviation in the tailcap position can render it useless.
Because of these issues I didn't even bother trying the longer PT2L. I think its time I sucked it up and went with a Surefire Scout light. And if I got over my dislike of tape switches I could even mount the light on the opposite side of the rail. For now I went ahead and removed the light and mount from the gun entirely.
Having the gun now squared away I packed up and headed down to the range for zeroing the Troy iron sights and Aimpoint H1.
I rarely shoot alone so I brought along a tripod for the camera. Although it takes some additional fussing, it did allow me to capture some angles that are otherwise unsafe when there's a person behind the camera.
I started with the irons. While I feel that it's important to know how to shoot with irons, and while I appreciate their role as a backup to an optic, I find them antiquated, imprecise, and slow (comparatively). Shooting suddenly felt like work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqrSP2fbdVo
But I couldn't argue with the results. Hits at 200 yards on an IPSC-sized Bobcat Steel plate were easily accomplished if I did my part.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MInxVaww3fM
Next came the Aimpoint H1. It already had a pretty close zero from the rifle it was mounted on previously, but I wanted to refine it. I first co-witnessed the dot to the irons and made some minor adjustments. I shot a group and then made another adjustment. But my next group was even farther off.
That's when I realized I had adjusted windage with my elevation knob and elevation with my windage knob. 
Live and learn.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZUKnA0EhpE
But I finally got her locked down and where she needed to be.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uyoSmoGYLQ
The last thing I did was remove the H1 and replace it with an INGOer-provided Meprolight M21 optic. Its a 1x "red dot" that uses fiber optics and tritium rather than electronics and batteries to provide day and night shooting. Shooting it was Phase 1 in my review process. I'll have that full review up at a later date. Here's a teaser. . . .
So that's where I stand with Project Iron Widow. Next I'd like to strip it down, clean it up, and put it in the studio for some "glamor shots".
Will update as the project progresses!
This was actually written for my "SBR in-progress" thread.************
Yesterday's weather was so gorgeous that I decided to spend my day off working with the SBR. Unfortunately lovemywoods wasn't available to join me, and neither were the 20 INGOers I sent a last-minute invite to.
So I ventured down to the range myself with a camera and a tripod.My goals for this trip to the range were:
- Apply blue Loctite to all screws and witness mark screw heads
- Inspect and evaluate current weaponlight setup
- Zero Troy iron sights for 50/200
- Zero Aimpoint H1 for 50/200
- Evaluate Meprolight M21 optic (review to come at a later date)
Upon arrival at the lovemywoods homestead I took over the reloading bench to work on the Noveske. Every screw or bolt that didn't come from the factory got a dose of blue Loctite and then reinstalled.
I picked up a dark brown paint pen from a local craft supply store to witness mark the screw heads. The paint matches the dark color of the DD MK18 rail and is very subdued.
If a screw were to come loose under sustained recoil I'd be able to detect it. But hopefully the Loctite does its job and it won't be an issue.
I also checked all bolts and screws that were installed at the factory and everything was nice and secure.
Then I moved on to inspecting my weaponlight setup. For the past several range sessions I've been using a Streamlight PT1L in a Haley Stragetic SBR mount. I chose this combo for its light weight and comparatively low cost.
A 9.5" rail doesn't leave much light mounting "rail-estate" for someone who prefers a forward support hand grip. Combine that with a 10.5" barrel that pokes out just forward of the rail and it further restricts light placement options. Because of this, the lens on the PT1L quickly became coated with residue, and the light's anodizing was literally blasted off.
There was a 3rd issue-- when clicked ON the light would only flash, but not stay on. Clicking again for OFF it flashed again. At first I thought it was totally busted, but then realized that the rear tailcap wasn't fully tightened down. I tightened it down and the light returned to normal operation. I tried to replicate this with my PT2L and it too reacted in the same manner.
That's all fine and good, but I'm still not thrilled that such a minor deviation in the tailcap position can render it useless.
Because of these issues I didn't even bother trying the longer PT2L. I think its time I sucked it up and went with a Surefire Scout light. And if I got over my dislike of tape switches I could even mount the light on the opposite side of the rail. For now I went ahead and removed the light and mount from the gun entirely.
Having the gun now squared away I packed up and headed down to the range for zeroing the Troy iron sights and Aimpoint H1.
I rarely shoot alone so I brought along a tripod for the camera. Although it takes some additional fussing, it did allow me to capture some angles that are otherwise unsafe when there's a person behind the camera.
I started with the irons. While I feel that it's important to know how to shoot with irons, and while I appreciate their role as a backup to an optic, I find them antiquated, imprecise, and slow (comparatively). Shooting suddenly felt like work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqrSP2fbdVo
But I couldn't argue with the results. Hits at 200 yards on an IPSC-sized Bobcat Steel plate were easily accomplished if I did my part.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MInxVaww3fM
Next came the Aimpoint H1. It already had a pretty close zero from the rifle it was mounted on previously, but I wanted to refine it. I first co-witnessed the dot to the irons and made some minor adjustments. I shot a group and then made another adjustment. But my next group was even farther off.
That's when I realized I had adjusted windage with my elevation knob and elevation with my windage knob. Live and learn. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZUKnA0EhpE
But I finally got her locked down and where she needed to be.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uyoSmoGYLQ
The last thing I did was remove the H1 and replace it with an INGOer-provided Meprolight M21 optic. Its a 1x "red dot" that uses fiber optics and tritium rather than electronics and batteries to provide day and night shooting. Shooting it was Phase 1 in my review process. I'll have that full review up at a later date. Here's a teaser. . . .
So that's where I stand with Project Iron Widow. Next I'd like to strip it down, clean it up, and put it in the studio for some "glamor shots".
Will update as the project progresses!
