Lightweight PVC Target Stands

[lovemywoods]

I’ve been using these target stands on a home range for a few years now. After posting pictures of a wood stand I recently built to hold a steel plate (https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...stand_for_long_distance_steel.html#post807504) some fellow INGOers asked that I post more about the portable stands.

I wanted a stand that was easy to move, weather resistant, easy to build, and not too costly. I settled on PVC bases because they met my criteria.

Target stand with new backer board

Backside of the stand

Target base

The base starts as a 10’ section of 1.5” PVC. Cut that into 8 pieces each 15” long. I used a table saw to cut the pipe, but most any saw will work. It’s nice to have the ends cut square, but not an absolute requirement. Clean any burrs off the cut ends.

You’ll also need the following 1.5” PVC fittings:
4 elbows
2 tees

When gluing PVC, you first spread cleaner on the outside of the pipe and inside of the fitting. Then spread glue on both surfaces and push them together. Hold the pieces together for about 10-15 seconds and it’s good to go. Work one joint at a time. If you’re unsure about how to glue joints, there are many websites with instructions. Here’s one: HOW TO CUT AND GLUE PVC PIPE

I started by gluing the elbows on the pieces that form the outer part of the base. Then I glued the three straight pieces into each tee, and then I glued the tee assemblies to the outer parts taking care that the upright portions of the target stand pointed straight up. It’s helpful to make some pencil marks on the pipe to show how it should align. With PVC glue, you only get one chance! Let the glue joints dry 2-3 hours before using them.

PVC Cleaner and Glue

One final trick. I drill four 3/16” holes in the bottom of the pipes to let water drain that might get in around the upright section of pipe.

The upright sticks I ripped from 2x4s and 2x6s I had around. They are 1.5” wide and about ½” thick. They’re just thick enough to go into the PVC pipe but not wobble around.

The backer boards I use are ¼” thick poster material with Styrofoam sandwiched in-between. They were used posters I got from work. They have some weather resistance and will hold paper targets on with staples. Cardboard sheets would also work, though they will sag and warp when rained on. Thin sheets of wood or the blue foamboard will do. The backer boards are held on with stainless steel bolts, fender washers, and wingnuts. The bolts in the picture are longer than they need to be. I was originally going a different direction with my stands and bought longer bolts.

Wingnut detail

Here’s what they look like after some range time. This backer was used at last Fall’s “You Suck, It’s Not the Gun” class. This one still has lots of life left in it.

Used Target

I keep extra sticks and backer boards on-hand that have pre-drilled holes for quick replacement.

The upright sticks come out of the base for transport. Several bases will ‘nest’ together and take up less space in your trunk. These target stands can be transported, but they are still bulky. The other minor downside is their light weight. Moderate winds will blow them over or require you to weigh down the bases. I’ve never had them blow over while I’m at the range.

If the PVC bases don’t work for you, I’ve seen metal stands like this onethat work well. http://speedwelltargets.com/cart/images/speedwell/stalps.jpg



Good luck and happy shooting!

 

[techres]

LMW, question for you:

I bought 3 of A500 steel plates for use at Appleseeds for Known Distance shooting (100-500 yards depending on what range we are at). So now I am wanting to build a cheap & trunk portable stand for holding a individual plates. My thought was to use your PVC base and have a matching PVC top that merely acted as a hoist for hanging the plate from a chain. The two would assemble by using short pieces of wood rather than long ones like your stand uses to hold your target high.

I don't need the plate to stand high, I actually would prefer it to be about 3' tall with the plate hanging at 2' in order to stay low on any berm.

Do you think the PVC would have the strength to hold up a 6"/9"/12" circle of A500?

 

[lovemywoods]

LMW, question for you:

I bought 3 of A500 steel plates for use at Appleseeds for Known Distance shooting (100-500 yards depending on what range we are at). So now I am wanting to build a cheap & trunk portable stand for holding a individual plates. My thought was to use your PVC base and have a matching PVC top that merely acted as a hoist for hanging the plate from a chain. The two would assemble by using short pieces of wood rather than long ones like your stand uses to hold your target high.

I don't need the plate to stand high, I actually would prefer it to be about 3' tall with the plate hanging at 2' in order to stay low on any berm.

Do you think the PVC would have the strength to hold up a 6"/9"/12" circle of A500?

My first reaction is that PVC would not be the best choice for these reasons:

a. The splatter from the steel might cut into the PVC. I’ve seen splatter from steel targets eat up the grass around the target and even into the ground a bit. I’m guessing that the lead and copper bits would eventually ‘sandblast’ and cut the soft PVC material.

b. Swinging of the steel would be hard on the joints of the PVC. That along with repeated assembly and disassembly would gradually weaken the pipe.


A couple of ideas that come to mind:

1. A simple upside-down ‘U’ shaped ‘wicket’ of bent rebar material with chain welded along the top to hold the steel circle might work. The legs could be pointed and stuck into the ground. It would be fairly cheap, durable and pack flat in a vehicle. The disadvantage is if the ground is frozen or rock/concrete, they wouldn’t work. In soft or wet ground the swinging of the target might cause the stand to lean forward or back after awhile.

2. A steel base like the picture with either detachable metal or wood sides and top that slides into the base would be sturdier. This would be more durable and would work on any surface. They would be a bit heavier to transport and a bit more costly to start with.

Do your target circles have a tab on one side or are they complete circles?
Would you deploy all three targets at one time or just one at a time?
Would these targets be receiving larger caliber rifle fire (.223, .308, etc)?

I would be glad to partner with you to come up with some design that works for you. Let me know how I can be of service to the Appleseed program.

lovemywoods

 

[techres]

Do your target circles have a tab on one side or are they complete circles? [/FONT]
Would you deploy all three targets at one time or just one at a time?
Would these targets be receiving larger caliber rifle fire (.223, .308, etc)?

I would be glad to partner with you to come up with some design that works for you. Let me know how I can be of service to the Appleseed program.

lovemywoods

The plates are bought from Field King:

(Stock Photo)

I was planning a U shaped piece of steel, or a modified mailbox post perhaps and then saw what you had there. As far as use, the idea is to use them at every Appleseed event as possible. At riley, we would be working to use one at 100 yards and another at 200. Perhaps 100, 150, 200. At other ranges they would be used out to 500 as range distance permits.

Some ranges already have steel and are doing long range stuff at every event, these plates will be used for those ranges that will be coming on line with longer distances at each and every event possible in 2010.

They will be taking hits from .223 and .308/30-06.

I will be rigging something up to test either this weekend or the next. Will post pics then.

Oh, that reminds me, I need to get some clear plexiglass to protect camera with closeup steel/watermelon/drywall shots. What would you suggest?

 

[OneBadV8]

I think I need an alert for these threads and all of your Range Reports.


Well done, And these were extremely portable and looked easy to setup at the "You Suck, Its Not The Gun" training class

 

[lovemywoods]

Oh, that reminds me, I need to get some clear plexiglass to protect camera with closeup steel/watermelon/drywall shots. What would you suggest?

I have no expertise with Plexiglas. I'll need to turn that over to the INGO community. Guys and Gals, who can answer Techres' question?

Back on the steel plates:
How about a simple base like the steel one I mentioned above. Instead of square receivers for wood, have round tubes to receive a round rod.

The tops would be a bent 'wicket' of rebar. In the center section of rebar is a piece of pipe placed there before the rebar is bent. On the middle of the pipe is a welded bracket that allows you to bolt on the steel plate. The pipe allows the plate to swing. The wicket legs fit into the receiver pipes on the base. The whole things pulls apart into two pieces for transport.

 

[HICKMAN]

perfect, I'd really like to get some of these done for my father.

 

[MoparEric]

Thanks

Lightweight and cheap. i'll make up some give them a try.

 

[Andre46996]

Great design!!!

+1 if I had any rep left!!!

If I could make a suggestion that would make them easier to transport..

Instead of gluing the Ts to the bases just glue the upright in the T, then after making sure it is at a right angle to the base use a 3/16 brill bit and drill through the T and the base both sides of the T.

They could either fold almost flat or even be disassembled for storage and transport. Either use a nut and bolt, cotter key, or I would use a hitch pin setup to hold everything together.

Great stands I will be making a few I just had that idea and figured you and others might benefit from it too.


Add*** Make sure you drill the holes in the horizontal or they will be stuck in the dirt***

 

[DaleB]

I'm a member of the Varmint Hunter's Association, and this month's issue (#73) has a great article/ interview with Jim Carmichel (shooting editor for Outdoor Life) about his "Write-On" targets, PVC target frames and backer board like this thread has been covering. (The frames are just plans, they're not trying to sell them) They strongly suggest using styrofoam insulating panels, saying they last a couple years, the bullet holes tend to heal shut to an extent, and targets pull off easily for those wanting to keep them for future reference and load development. It's page 26 for anyone interested, and back issues can be purchased even if your not a member by contacting the club. The Varmint Hunters Association & The VARMINT HUNTER Magazine® - Hunters, Shooters, Reloaders - Your Source for Accuracy or 1-800-528-4868.

 

[Andre46996]

I like the Styrofoam backer idea as well I think I will use that when I build mine.

 

[Andre46996]

I have no expertise with Plexiglas. I'll need to turn that over to the INGO community. Guys and Gals, who can answer Techres' question?

When I make protective covers and shields for equipment minimum thickness is 1/2 inch and this is just for inspection covers. I have seen a #5 chain pop and the cover stop it. If you are just worried about splatter I would say 1/2 is fine. Use Lexan not that cheap crap there are different grades I don't remember them but use the top of the line it will have better clarity and a higher impact rating.

I do know 2 inch Lexan will stop 4 rds of 165gr .40 before you will shoot through it... Left over Lexan from a job and boredom around the house.

 

[lovemywoods]

When I make protective covers and shields for equipment minimum thickness is 1/2 inch and this is just for inspection covers. I have seen a #5 chain pop and the cover stop it. If you are just worried about splatter I would say 1/2 is fine. Use Lexan not that cheap crap there are different grades I don't remember them but use the top of the line it will have better clarity and a higher impact rating.

I do know 2 inch Lexan will stop 4 rds of 165gr .40 before you will shoot through it... Left over Lexan from a job and boredom around the house.

Great information! Thanks.

So the obvious question for our INGO bretheren....Who has a 12"x12" piece of 1/2" thick Lexan we can have/buy?

 

[Andre46996]

Great information! Thanks.

So the obvious question for our INGO bretheren....Who has a 12"x12" piece of 1/2" thick Lexan we can have/buy?

The 1/2 inch is hard to come by new on jobsites and most of the stuff I am replacing would not be good for what he wants to do with it. I am sure I could get my hands on some 1/4 inch stuff but I don't think it would hold up to splatter from steel targets.

 

[lovemywoods]

The 1/2 inch is hard to come by new on jobsites and most of the stuff I am replacing would not be good for what he wants to do with it. I am sure I could get my hands on some 1/4 inch stuff but I don't think it would hold up to splatter from steel targets.

Would it hold up to the occasional exposure?
If the 1/4" is not too hard to obtain, can I get a piece to test before putting techres's camera behind it?

 

[Litlratt]

An alternative to the previous design

When disassembled, 3 will fit in a bag this size.

I don't recommend gluing pvc unless necessary. It is much easier to replace a damaged part. If you must, try something that isn't permanent.

 

[lovemywoods]

Litlratt,

Thanks for posting another design! I like the simplicity. Uses fewer fittings.

For maximum portability and minium storage space, not gluing the pieces would work best. An intermediate approach would be to glue everything but the uprights. That way the base would stack easily in a trunk. At the range, there would be less assembly, just pop in the uprights and sticks and you're ready to go!

I opted to glue the pieces together as a unit since the stands don't get transported off site; they stay at the range. By gluing them, I don't have to deal with the bases twisting or falling apart as I move them around, stack them, they blow over, etc.

 

[Andre46996]

Would it hold up to the occasional exposure?
If the 1/4" is not too hard to obtain, can I get a piece to test before putting techres's camera behind it?

I'm off for a couple more weeks since NOBODY is doing PM to their equipment right now but as soon as I get back I will see what I can come up with, I might even have some in my Garage let me look this weekend. My garage is a mess its a 3 car and I can barely fit my truck in it.

 

[rvb]

For shooting steel, I ALWAYS prefer wood (with PVC second) over steel for stands.

If the steel target face is smooth, angled down slightly, and hung loose, you will almost NEVER get splatter from it, most of the splatter goes down. If your stands are metal, then that splater can be redirected back at you. Wood stands get chewed up and I always handle mine with work gloves due to all the crap stuck in them, but that's the point... the splatter gets suck IN them and doesn't come back at you.

The other benefit of wood stands are that you have to shoot a 2x4 quite a bit before it cuts in half.

If I remember tonight I will take a picture of my folding, wood stands for my plates.

-rvb

 

[IUGradStudent]

Great design! I use one extremely similar. The only major difference is that I didn't bother putting on the rear cross-piece -- mine just has the cross-piece across the front. I also have not welded anything since I have to transport the frames to and from the range.

I love your design, too, Litlratt -- with the crosspiece directly below the target it is probably pretty stable.