Re-Bluing a gun or leave it alone?

[Michiana]

Originally Posted by Metro 40

Honestly, from your pics, I think it looks good as is. It's got a history, and it's got character. I'd leave it alone, unless it's starting to rust somewhere.

There is no rust showing and it is a even color but just looks blaaa. I did a liquid blue on a shotgun I have and it looked a lot nicer with a blackish tint. The shotgun was not worth much so I took a chance and also redid the stock. The 45 is another story as I really don't want to take a chance screwing it up as I enjoy shooting it and as people say it has history and means something to me.

There are four screw holes on the top of the slide where the Bo-Mar sight was attached I'd like to plug. Any one have a suggestion on plugging them?

Dick

[Slow Hand]

The normal way of pluggin screw holes takes some skill and work. Get screws that fit the holes and lock tite them in place. Cut the exposed portion of the screw head then file it down smooth to the surface of the slide. Polish it up using samdpaper and a backing block to match the surrounding finish and reblue. Some folks will peen the stub down after cutting teh screw head off to help make sure it's 'set' into place. This works better if the holes don't go all the way through the surface as you can really tighten the screws down. You may see a small semi-circle from teh threads after filing it smooth. I don't have any good suggestions on filling that in if blueing. If you are doing a sparay on finish, you can fill it up with solder and smooth it up. The spray on coating doesn't care what is underneath of it, it'll just coat it all the same.

Doug K

[Michiana]

Attached a photo of my 1911 as of a half hour ago. I'm cleaning the parts in preperation to rebluing by yours truly. I followed a video on disassembly I found on YouTube and it was very easy. They have a second on assembly I will use once I am finished with the bluing and have everything lubed and ready to go back. Will post an "after" picture when I am done. I dicided not to plug the threaded holes as they are really not an issue with me at this time. Thanks for all the suggestions from the group.

[AllenM]

Cool deal. can't wait to see it.

[Michiana]

Has anyone besides myself found this great product called Nevr-Dull magic wadding polish? I have had a can for at least eight years. It is a cleaning product embedded in a wadding material that is great for cleaning all types of metals including gun finishes. You need to make sure it will not damage your finish before using on all surfaces. Great for removing rust and corrosion instantly. I purchased it at a local store in South Bend but I know it is sold on the internet. Great stuff for keeping your guns looking good. A can costs about eight bucks and lasts forever.

Company says;

"Nevr Dull Metal Polish consists of a unique non-scratching wadding impregnated with a special polishing solution. It is perfect for cleaning and polishing brass, aluminum, nickel, pewter, silver, copper, steel, chromium, zinc, and gold. It safely removes rust, tarnish, fingerprints, and more."

[southin]

Yes, Nevr-Dull is a great product.
As a car guy, I've used it for the last 20 some odd years on polished aluminum wheels to keep them looking spanking out of the box new.
Never used it on a firearm, but have only just recently gotten back into the realm after 20 some odd years.

[12bee]

I've used Nevr-Dull and still have the same can I bought at Plinkers (now closed) several years ago.It works great on stainless and I have also used it on blued guns.

[Slow Hand]

you can buy nev-r-dull at any local Auto Zone, as well.

[Michiana]

Reblued the 1911 yesterday and put it together today. Not a good as I would have liked but better than it was and it cost me $6.00. I also got to strip it down 100% which was an education in itself. Thank God for the videos on the Internet to follow. Attaching a couple photos. It is not like a fancy new one but it didn't cost me a cent and shoots great. Sounds like a good deal to me.