Gunsmithing Colt's DA revolvers OP to Python.

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  • geronimojoe85

    Master
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    Nov 16, 2009
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    For whatever reason there is a shroud of mystery surrounding certain revolver types. I'd like to talk today about one that for whatever reason seems particularly confusing to some. Most modern gunsmiths won't touch a Colt anymore and with good reason, if you mess it up it's really hard to get a replacement, also if you don't know what you're doing it's easy to mess one up. Colts are NOT S&W revolvers, you do NOT work them in the same fashion. The lock work of the Colt DA revolver from the beginning of the 20th century until the late 60s when the MkIII came out, is nearly identical. The only real difference is the amount of hand fitting given to each model.
    In this picture you will see four examples of I-frame revolvers left to right, the Official Police, Trooper (not to be confused with the Trooper MkIII), the Officers Model 357, and the Python. You will see the OP is essentially a Trooper with fixed sights. The Trooper and the OP were Colt's base model revolvers for years. In 1955 the Python was introduced as the top of the line, best you could get and for the most part that rings true today. The Officers Model 357 was Colt's deluxe 357 magnum revolver before the Python, and after 1955 became a middle ground between the rather spartan Trooper and the Cadillac that is the Python. Colt subsequently dropped the model 357 as most people went for one or the other. Colt has also produced several other models on different frame sizes such as the Police Positive, Detective Special, Diamondback, Viper, Agent, etc. all having the same basic lock work. So this guide will help you with those guns as well.

    Note the placement of the screws and studs are identical.
    2D1BB036-FD9D-4155-8572-017FF81DC57C.jpg

    Now with the side plates removed.
    4C3896E9-80F7-4015-888E-2DEFCEF29273.jpg



    Ok, let's talk disassembly.

    First remove the grip.
    E27B9EAE-ABF2-4A77-8B7C-613FB9DEE1A2.jpg


    Then the cylinder retaining screw, spring and detent.
    5C92F621-551D-41BF-B68A-6E175443CAD6.jpg

    E838DF15-50FE-4BD3-BDC5-5BCDB28D36EB.jpg


    And the cylinder and crane slide right out the front.
    113EDB9D-261A-497D-A2DA-0B4EC0A946AD_1.jpg


    Now to remove the side plate, remove the two side plate screws.
    C56738DB-BA7B-40A9-8007-15180BD205D0.jpg

    Then use a plastic hammer or wood handle to tap the frame until the plate pops off, take care to keep the cylinder latch and side plate together.
    9C51A227-A9AE-4808-A073-3D3964162B95.jpg


    Exposing the guts you can see the flat mainspring. Carefully slide it out of the frame and off of the stirrup of the hammer.
    B3D56681-1CFA-4116-A7BE-0DE324D8F9D5.jpg


    Remove the hand from the trigger.
    75278B48-C4D6-4AFC-A5DC-E9A9821C7CC9.jpg


    Remove the rebound lever by driving the pin out of the frame with a punch from right to left.
    03D896D3-72FD-46CB-B9B8-9CCF21AC1497.jpg

    And the lever drops right out.
    1271B1C4-3CFA-4D2E-AFDE-CE1DAB6C80DF.jpg

    C94A2689-AAB8-41D9-A40B-C0CFC863FE0C.jpg


    Now moving the hammer into the cocked position you can slide the hammer up and off of its respective stud.
    0DF75D30-A66A-4F27-9951-CA979AB850F9.jpg

    D0F461E0-5D42-4DF2-8422-3F3D12707E17.jpg

    Now you can place the trigger in its forward most position and remove the latch pin.
    CBCD44FC-71F6-492D-A744-B50FCEA6E6BD.jpg

    4CD53325-4B67-4A6E-9174-19AE15C3CBDF.jpg

    At this point you can see the trigger, safety lever, and safety. These all come out as one piece. Take care to lift the parts out together or they may bind.
    CED7B605-34C0-4C95-A8AD-2DA692DCDCDF.jpg

    51D9EC62-9B82-46AD-AC84-B9313D62797E.jpg

    14EC9860-2392-4241-86AB-A37438AADD7A.jpg


    Now all that's left in the frame is the bolt, bolt spring, and bolt screw.

    The spring is held under considerable tension. So care should be taken not to lose the spring.
    409E9E14-13A8-44DC-A20E-3880B61D189A.jpg

    Also the bolt screw is very short.
    CE106A15-6EE6-4262-97DC-72E3EE4A7B4F.jpg

    The best way to keep from losing parts is to place your finger over the bolt spring as you remove the screw.
    1C8AD85B-120C-4C1A-B620-4715469AB121.jpg

    BA23810A-4318-4E70-949B-42F892A6EFBC.jpg


    Then gently push the bolt head through the window of the frame and lift out the side.
    F8D2A348-29A5-4DCF-BFCF-0D76F28A3835.jpg


    Now, congratulations you are disassembled. Well, mostly, if your revolver has a frame mounted firing pin you will have to remove the rear sight and then the firing pin retaining plate which is reminiscent of the 1911. At any rate were done here.
    B5B83112-A955-4167-9366-0C015BB4C8CE.jpg
     
    Last edited:

    geronimojoe85

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    Reassembly:

    After giving the gun a good once over to get the crud out its time to reassemble.


    First locate the bolt, bolt spring and bolt screw.


    The bolt spring resides in this recess in the underside of the bolt


    And this small indent in the frame.


    Place the bolt spring in the bolt and using a small punch or screwdriver carefully compress the spring and place the bolt head in the it's respective window in the frame.


    Carefully install the bolt screw.



    It is extraordinarily easy to cross thread this screw. Should end up looking like this.



    Make sure the bolt moves freely and does not bind on the frame or screw.

    Now we will assemble the trigger, safety lever and safety.


    As you can see the safety lever has slots that fit their respective posts much like a chain style door latch.


    Place the safety lever on the stud on the trigger and the safety.


    Should look like this.

    Place the trigger on the trigger stud and place the safety lever around the hammer stud the safety in its slot in the frame

    Properly installed should look like this. Make sure the safety and safety lever are flush with the frame and check that the parts do not bind.


    Install the latch pin into the frame.


    Move the trigger to the rear and place the hammer on the hammer stud. Make sure to put the sear interface of the trigger...


    between the double action and single action sears on the hammer.


    Properly installed it should look like this.


    Place the rebound lever into the frame over the hammer and into it's slot in the grip area.


    Drive the rebound lever retaining pin in from left to right.


    Place the hand into the trigger here.


    The rebound lever fits into the hand in this groove in the back side of the hand.

    When properly installed the hand is flush with the frame like this.

    Place the hooks of the mainspring around the stirrup on the hammer.

    Place the other flat of the spring on the rebound lever.

    And slide the bottom of the spring into its slot in the frame. Properly installed will look like this.

    Locate the side plate, you will notice the latch consists of a spring, plunger, and the latch itself.


    Place the spring and plunger into the side plate and place the latch into the slot.




    Installing the side plate can be tricky because it is a close fit. Make sure that the latch fits onto the latch pin.

    And place the side plate on the frame gently.

    The plate may take a little motivation once it get to this point. Use a small plastic hammer or other non marring hammer like device and GENTLY tap the plate home. I can't stress it enough that it needs to be done gently.
    These colts especially the Python have an extremely close fit, if you man handle this thing you will mar up the plate and frame. No bueno! Treat this side plate like it's made of porcelain.


    Make sure the cylinder latch moves properly and does not bind.


    Install the screws.


    Place the crane between a flute in the cylinder (not required but does make it a little easier to get in the frame).

    Slide the cylinder into the frame.


    Place the cylinder retaining detent and detent spring into the frame.

    Install the screw.


    Make sure the cylinder does not bind in the frame.


    Install the grips and if you've done everything right it will be a revolver again. Go forth and shoot the snot out of it.
     
    Last edited:

    dboz

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    Greenwood
    These are much different than my father's Lawman, which I recently disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. I simply assumed that all modern revolvers had coiled mainsprings. Thanks for info.
     

    geronimojoe85

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    These are much different than my father's Lawman, which I recently disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. I simply assumed that all modern revolvers had coiled mainsprings. Thanks for info.

    Thats a MkIII revolver, I'll talk about those in another thread.
    Those came out after 1969 to reduce the amount of hand fitting required. It was also Colt's first major advancement in design tech since the turn of the century.
     

    walt o

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    Hammond
    That was a wonderful presentation ,and the pictures were GREAT thank you for the educational post.Very unlike much of what is on the internet.
    thanks
    walt o
     

    Hookeye

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    armpit of the midwest
    Got drenched on a deer hunt a few years ago, my '69 E series was soaked.
    I took it apart, completely, cleaned dried and re-oiled and got it back together............no problem.
    No books or Youtube or other. Didn't think it any big deal really.

    Well, oily hands and the cylinder release latch.......that took a couple of attempts.

    Nice write up though.
     
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