SW 29-2 cases getting stuck.

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  • hrearden

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    Hello INGO! Been a minute since I last posted so I figured Id give you guys something to ponder. I have a SW 29-2 44 mag in which 44 mag cases bulge so badly they have to be tapped out with a rod. The gun looks in excellent condition and I was hesitating to jump to the headspace conclusion, but Im leaning towards that issue since I can get a .020 gauge behind the cylinder (limit is .016). However, the cylinder cannot be pulled to the rear any further than it currently is. Any thoughts? Sorry about the lack of pics, still trying to get everything squared away in my new location.
     

    x10

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    I had a ruger redhawk that did the same thing your explaining and my solution was a new cylinder, but I have to admit that the loads that had been run through it on a regular basis were tooooo hot, and I ended up swelling the cylinder but not enough to crack it or show a lot of physical deformation,

    My cases even the non split ones would not go back into a sizing die

    If your the original owner and sure you've never pushed the limit it then I don't know but if your #2 in the string it may have been the last guy, Hard to say on the internet
     

    prescut

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    Fascinating thread. I had problems with a Ruger cylinder on a 357mag that had 8 to 10,000 rounds thru it. I wanted to add a spacer on the cylinder center rod, but was told by my gunsmith that I would lose the spacer washer the first time I cleaned it. Instead he welded on a spot and then ground it down to factory specs (i think was .004). Shots like new again and I have her started on her second 10,000. A washer is a cheap test.

    Lost
     

    prescut

    Marksman
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    I have another couple of ideas as well. If you shoot 44 special that are a touch shorter than the 44 mag, you may have carbon build up in the cylinders. Use a 1200 grit wet/dry sand paper wrapped around a pencil eraser and polish those cylinders one at a time. I have done this on half a dozen 357mags that were shooting shorter 38's leaving a small carbon ring at the end of the cylinder. I keep super fine grit 1200 to 2000 grit for polishing rails and wear points. Makes brass fall right out of tight cylinders and makes semi-autos feel like butter.
    The expanded cases are worrisome. That almost sounds like the brass is not fitting tightly to the sides of the cylinder. I can't imagine how headspacing effects that. Any idea how that could happen?
    I've seen semi-autos with that problem, but never a wheel gun.
    Please reply back as you have my curiosity up.
    thanks
    Lost
     

    1911ly

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    I'd pass on the sand paper and use a bore brush chucked in a drill first. I'd avoid sanding at all cost. IMHO.
     

    Classic

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    I also have an early 629 and it has proved to be a delicate flower. It says 44 Magnum on the barrel but you don't want to run "full house" loads in it on a routine basis. Parts will bend or break under the heavier 44 Mag loads. When the Dirty Harry series of movies was new there were numerous articles explaining this. Heavy 44 Special or lighter 44 Mag loads are the best feed for every weekend range time. If it isn't fouling (frequently caused when using 44 Special brass) then it sure sounds like a new cylinder.
     

    hrearden

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    Ok, Thanks to all who replied. The reason I asked is because I cleaned the cylinder, trying that route already. It still did it. Nothing I have examined is bent or broken but the barrel pin indicates it has been worked on before. I agree, washers are a cheap test. I will try using washers and see where that leads (ordered them today). I just wondered if there was some stupid issue I was missing that somebody would just throw out there. Also, just to clarify, this was factory ammo I was using on all accounts.
     

    prescut

    Marksman
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    guys,
    Please don't turn my comments about using 2000 grit to "polish" into the words sandpaper and "sanding". You are much more likely to do damage with anything else than this stuff and a pencil eraser. Using a drill and/or a dremel is not in my toolkit. You can't get 2000 grit wet/dry at the grange or a hardware store. It normally requires special order. Good luck with the washers, it worked for me until I got the weld and polish to specs done by gunsmith.

    Lost
     

    churchmouse

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    guys,
    Please don't turn my comments about using 2000 grit to "polish" into the words sandpaper and "sanding". You are much more likely to do damage with anything else than this stuff and a pencil eraser. Using a drill and/or a dremel is not in my toolkit. You can't get 2000 grit wet/dry at the grange or a hardware store. It normally requires special order. Good luck with the washers, it worked for me until I got the weld and polish to specs done by gunsmith.

    Lost

    I use 2000 a bit when final polish on pieces. I have made fly laps with it to finish out pieces.
     

    1911ly

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    I hate to sound like a dumbass, but what is fly laps? what kind of pieces are you finishing out?

    Lost

    Fly laps is a machining term. It basicly means making small machining passes to get to a specific size. IE: honing a cylinder to a size to fit a piston.
     

    jcj54

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    If the cases are bulging the chamber has been swelled. New cylinder is the fix. I have a good friend who is on his 3rd M29 cylinder. He just can't stop shooting the hot stuff.
     

    1911ly

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    thanks 1911ly,
    I'll try using that 3 times today in a sentence.
    If you don't ask, you'll still sound like a dumbass next week.

    Lost

    You asked a question. I gave you a honest answer. What part of that explanation has you lost? Nothing wrong with asking questions. I don't might answering. I have worked in a machine shop. And I don't mind sharing my knowledge.

    Larry
     

    churchmouse

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    Fly laps is a machining term. It basicly means making small machining passes to get to a specific size. IE: honing a cylinder to a size to fit a piston.

    Bingo. Did not mean to confuse. My Grandfather used that term a lot. I have some of the rods he made in various sizes for that process. Cut the required length of your chosen sand cloth. Slip it into the slot cut in the rod and chuck the rod up in a press or hand held drill motor. Use the lap like a hone to final polish or remove small amounts of material. This works when properly sized hones are not available. I have repaired antique brake master and wheel cylinders with this technique. I have also taken scuffs from chambers.
     

    churchmouse

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    You asked a question. I gave you a honest answer. What part of that explanation has you lost? Nothing wrong with asking questions. I don't might answering. I have worked in a machine shop. And I don't mind sharing my knowledge.

    Larry

    Larry,

    He always signs off with lost.

    Fly lap...fly lap...fly lap....ain't as easy as it sounds.
     

    hrearden

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    So I put in the washer, its all at spec but the inside diameter of the cylinders. Its a shame but maybe I will be able to find a new cylinder on GB or Ebay. Unless somebody here has one. ;)
     
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