Entry level 1911 smithing.

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • ftwphilly

    Shooter
    Rating - 100%
    35   0   0
    Apr 1, 2011
    117
    18
    I would like to accomplish my own trigger jobs (to start) and I'm just wondering what hammer/sear jig is the "industry standard." Also, I've read quite a bit and come from an engineering background and I wonder why they don't show in detail these methods in Wilson Combat/Jerry Kuhnhausen books? I mean they "cover" it but not in an in-depth over the shoulder methods and processes. I will settle for nothing less than perfection.
     

    jcj54

    Marksman
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Aug 24, 2013
    264
    43
    NE
    Made my own jig that is more user friendly. Bought the correct stones. They have to be truly square and sharp cornered.
    Next step is to buy half a dozen hammers and sears so when you ruin one (and you will) you have spares.
    Then spend hours (a LOT of hours) untill you have the feel for it.
    Trial and error is the phrase.
    These things are learned by doing. The most detailed description of how to can only go so far.
     

    ftwphilly

    Shooter
    Rating - 100%
    35   0   0
    Apr 1, 2011
    117
    18
    I was looking at Boride abrasives for stones, they have sets and seem "on the level." I was debating the Bob Marvel Hammer/Sear jig or the sear jig with .020 shim from Ed Brown. I just wonder if a jig is needed for addressing the hammer? I've allocated the practice to be on cheaper parts until "the feel" for it is there. I'm just looking for what is actually needed without all the hype.
     

    spectre327

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Aug 19, 2011
    495
    18
    Seymour, Indiana
    the Ed Brown Sear Jig, an Armorers Block, dremel w polishing wheel, Flitz, India and Ceramic Stones, a 90 degree Square Stone, Trigger track stone, Feeler gauge, Beavertail Jigs, Bobtail jigs, and the right Punches

    That is about all you need to do 1911 work. I did my own trigger and accurizing job using sandpaper, a dremel w polishing wheel, polishing compound, square stone, and beavertail jig. Stoned my engagement surfaces, polished my barrel throat, polished the barrel lugs, polished the feed ramp, stoned the trigger track, polished the trigger bow, and polished my relief angles on the Sear, Disconnect, and Hammer. Finally I cut three coils off my mainspring using the dremel and adjusted my leaf spring. Now I have about a 3.5-4 pound pull weight.

    Im very satisfied with the job. There is almost no creep, very very little over-travel, trigger is sensitive but not touchy, and the take-up is just perfect
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
    152
    Speedway area
    I have dropped a few "K" on tooling to work on 1911's. Say what you will they are specific. Depends on how much you want and are willing to do. Get a beater. Old worn out 1911 and start refurbishing it. If you screw something up (and you will) best to do it on a beater as opposed to one of your nice pieces.
    As stated.....spare parts. Hammers/sears/disconnectors/3 finger springs. Any thing ignition oriented.
     

    ftwphilly

    Shooter
    Rating - 100%
    35   0   0
    Apr 1, 2011
    117
    18
    I've read too much and as a result I have too many questions which are best answered by obtaining a "beater" and getting hands on. I would like to do trigger jobs, fit and adjust sights, beavertail if necessary, fit a barrel bushing, and a barrel. I might get into staking plunger tubes at some point but I just want to be able to do my own general maintenance/upgrade. I realize some tasks are simpler than others but in the end I will not settle for sub-par work being done. It will be done right, with quality, or it won't be done at all.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
    152
    Speedway area
    I've read too much and as a result I have too many questions which are best answered by obtaining a "beater" and getting hands on. I would like to do trigger jobs, fit and adjust sights, beavertail if necessary, fit a barrel bushing, and a barrel. I might get into staking plunger tubes at some point but I just want to be able to do my own general maintenance/upgrade. I realize some tasks are simpler than others but in the end I will not settle for sub-par work being done. It will be done right, with quality, or it won't be done at all.

    I do my own work simply because I want to. I learn something everytime I make a mistake.....:)

    Sight pushers are a spendy tool and you should have one if you are going to do that.
    Barrel bushings can be hand fit if you take your time and do not buy one the requires a lot of material to be removed. To do that a "Good" set of vernier Calipers are needed.
    The list goes on and on. Get on the Brownells site and just browse through the 1911 tool section.....but be careful in there.
     

    1911ly

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Dec 11, 2011
    13,419
    83
    South Bend
    Sorry :hijack:

    I picked up a used Bob Marvel hammer sear jig. Just learning it.

    Does anyone have experience with it? I found a issue with my sear that might have other wise gone unknown. I need to do a write up about it. To make a long story short, I should replace my sear and might as well do the hammer too.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
    152
    Speedway area
    Sorry :hijack:

    I picked up a used Bob Marvel hammer sear jig. Just learning it.

    Does anyone have experience with it? I found a issue with my sear that might have other wise gone unknown. I need to do a write up about it. To make a long story short, I should replace my sear and might as well do the hammer too.

    I have the good Bob Marvel jig. It is to easy to use compared to the cheap Ed Brown I used to use. Still have the brown.
    I have seen the jig you have just do not have any experience with it.
     

    midget

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Apr 2, 2010
    1,619
    38
    Leo
    I will be buying a Bob Marvel jig eventually. They are wonderful. Another member was nice enough to lend me his a while back and I had fallen in love with it...
     

    walt o

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Feb 10, 2008
    1,097
    63
    Hammond
    Information is your best tool .Kuhnhausen 's book and read, then buy some good stones from Brownells as far as sear jigs take a long look at this TR Trigger Job from the 1911 forum, the fixture is almost fool proof follow the information..
     

    drillsgt

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    108   0   0
    Nov 29, 2009
    9,627
    149
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Information is your best tool .Kuhnhausen 's book and read, then buy some good stones from Brownells as far as sear jigs take a long look at this TR Trigger Job from the 1911 forum, the fixture is almost fool proof follow the information..

    Beat me to it. The TR jig is a great little tool, easy to use too. I've tried different ones but never found a jig that really works that well for the hammer hooks I just stone them by hand, quality hammers rarely need it anyway.

    https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/instructions-for-hd-805-tr-sear-jig
     

    walt o

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Feb 10, 2008
    1,097
    63
    Hammond
    The only downside to the T.R.jig is that the sear needs to be a little long ,and can't be re stoned. the trouble with all other jigs are they stone a flat sear engagement .The T.R. jig guides you to stone a radius that matches the arc that the sear moves in .
    Hammer hooks need to be .020 ,use a feelers Ga.and a stone to bring to size .and a black sharpie to check engagement of both hooks on the sear.
    Another trick is to use the Diamond impregnated sharpening plates from Harbor Freight to flatten and true up the stones . It is necessary as the stones will wear out of flat and sharp edges.
     
    Last edited:

    ftwphilly

    Shooter
    Rating - 100%
    35   0   0
    Apr 1, 2011
    117
    18
    Any previous work I had done was by the traditional method in the sear/hammer department (glass break type release) so this is what I'm used to. I am curious how the TR Pro is different by creating a "roll" trigger. I have read that this is viewed as a "bullseye" trigger? I do like the new TR Pro with its ability to now re-stone a sear (4 times). How many times can a sear be re-stoned provided you didn't mess it up? I know they wear I just don't want to waste any potential useful sear just because my jig doesn't accommodate it. This is why I'm still leaning towards the Power Series I. Should I look into the Brownell's/MidwayUSA stones or would Boride Abrasives be acceptable? What is the definition of a "good" stone? Also, checkering the front strap has now been added to the list. Any recommended files/jigs for this?
     
    Top Bottom