Cleaning your handguns

[bauerr3]

I just recently purchased an M&P22 as my first handgun, and before I shoot, I want to know how you guys clean your handguns. This way, I can be sure to have what I need when I get back from shooting. I've mentioned before I use my father's Ruger Mark II but he has never cleaned it, so I haven't been taught how, but there are videos I've found. I have never been let down with INGO, so any advice, tools, brands of equipment, etc. you can suggest will be greatly appreciated!! Hopefully I will need to clean tomorrow night after some fun

 

[Irishshooter]

There are as many opinions on cleaning and how often as there are about Glock V (favorite non glock). But here is my .
After a range trip and say 200 rds I will field strip and wipe down. Run a couple swabs through the barrel then lightly oil. Takes about 5 min.
every month or so I strip it down an let the barrel and everything but the grips soak in some Hoppes and remove all traces of dirt. I spend about an hour per gun.
The exception to this is my Ruger 22/45. That is the hardest gun I have ever had the displeasure to disassemble and reassemble. After every 500-800 rounds I will clean that with a cleaning rod and Q tips trying to remove all traces of dirt and spent powder.

 

[Slawburger]

Cleaning Rods (e.g. Outers, Hoppes, many brands): These are the traditional tools for cleaning firearms. You attach a brass bristle brush to the rod, soak it in solvent (e.g. Hoppes #9) and run it through the bore a few times. Then you attach another tip to the rod and pull/push a swatch of cotton (old t-shirt patch) treated with a few drops of oil through the bore until it comes out clean.

Cables (e.g. Otis): These are relatively new. The process is similar to the rods but instead of a rigid rod you use a flexible cable and oull it from the breech to the muzzle (same direction the bullet follows). The thinking is that it is better to follow the normal bullet path, the flexible cable is less likely to damage the barrel and by pulling away from the chamber you are less likely to damage something by poking it with the rod.

Boresnake: These are good for a quick cleaning at the range but not for detail cleaning (YMMV, IMHO). They look like a cotton rope with bristles. Somethimes they are a little tight pulling through the barrel but they do a good job of cleaning the bore quickly at the range. I still think you need a full cleaning kit for detail cleaning.

Other Tools: Old toothbrush, toothpicks, metal punch (for removing pins), small screwdrivers, Q-tips, dental picks.

Oils & Solvents: There are many options and people are sometimes very loyal to one brand. CLP (Clean Lubricate Protect, lot of warfighters swear by it), Hoppes (old favorite of mine), RemOil, Frog Lube (non-toxic, pricey).

Cautions:
1) Use newspaper, cardboard, plastic bags or some barrier to keep the oil and gunk off the kitchen table. It is for your own safety.
2) When detail cleaning small springs tend to fly across the room and land in an inaccessible spot. Some people take things apart inside a bag to contain flying springs.
3) Get the manual and READ it before you start disassembling the firearm. YouTube has a lot of good disassembly/reassembly videos.

Others will be along shortly with some good tips.

 

[Tomc1947]

You Tube is your friend.

 

[Bennettjh]

I would read the manual first.

I bought a Winchester cleaning kit at Rural King and it came with the popular sizes of brushes and swabs. It also has like a toothbrush in it and a pick. Very handy. So I use that and Remington action cleaner, then a light coat of Lucas gun oil.

 

[Tyler-The-Piker]

Cleaning Rods (e.g. Outers, Hoppes, many brands): These are the traditional tools for cleaning firearms. You attach a brass bristle brush to the rod, soak it in solvent (e.g. Hoppes #9) and run it through the bore a few times. Then you attach another tip to the rod and pull/push a swatch of cotton (old t-shirt patch) treated with a few drops of oil through the bore until it comes out clean.

Cables (e.g. Otis): These are relatively new. The process is similar to the rods but instead of a rigid rod you use a flexible cable and oull it from the breech to the muzzle (same direction the bullet follows). The thinking is that it is better to follow the normal bullet path, the flexible cable is less likely to damage the barrel and by pulling away from the chamber you are less likely to damage something by poking it with the rod.

Boresnake: These are good for a quick cleaning at the range but not for detail cleaning (YMMV, IMHO). They look like a cotton rope with bristles. Somethimes they are a little tight pulling through the barrel but they do a good job of cleaning the bore quickly at the range. I still think you need a full cleaning kit for detail cleaning.

Other Tools: Old toothbrush, toothpicks, metal punch (for removing pins), small screwdrivers, Q-tips, dental picks.

Oils & Solvents: There are many options and people are sometimes very loyal to one brand. CLP (Clean Lubricate Protect, lot of warfighters swear by it), Hoppes (old favorite of mine), RemOil, Frog Lube (non-toxic, pricey).

Cautions:
1) Use newspaper, cardboard, plastic bags or some barrier to keep the oil and gunk off the kitchen table. It is for your own safety.
2) When detail cleaning small springs tend to fly across the room and land in an inaccessible spot. Some people take things apart inside a bag to contain flying springs.
3) Get the manual and READ it before you start disassembling the firearm. YouTube has a lot of good disassembly/reassembly videos.

Others will be along shortly with some good tips.

I have to spread some more rep around before I can rep Slawburger again...

 

[Irishshooter]

Regarding tools. Look for a set of non metal picks. Ones like the dentist uses only made of plastic or nylon. They are great for getting gunk out of cracks and crevices but won't scar up your gun.
I try to avoid using any metal instruments, you can really do some irreversible damage. I don't use any steel or wire brushes. The exception is the brass barrel brush. But I use that with care, sometimes the steel center of the brush will become exposed and you can gouge into the barrel if not careful.

 

[chezuki]

It's a little different on a .22 as they can be finicky.

For my carry and competition pistols, I clean them approximately every 5 THOUSAND rounds whether they need it or not. This tearing them down and cleaning after every 50-100rd range trip is just silliness (unless you just like doing it).

 

[sloughfoot]

It's a little different on a .22 as they can be finicky.

For my carry and competition pistols, I clean them approximately every 5 THOUSAND rounds whether they need it or not. This tearing them down and cleaning after every 50-100rd range trip is just silliness (unless you just like doing it).

^^^^This^^^^^ Or you are bored because the cold winds are blowing outside and the roads are closed and there is nothing good on the tube.

Or you feel quilty. Guns don't need as much cleaning as lots of guys seem to subject them to.

 

[Vigilant]

I just cleaned my newest 19 two weeks ago after 2500 rounds of a little bit of everything! It was dirty and gunky but it never skipped a beat. I only cleaned it superficially by hosing it down with gun scrubber, and running a patch through the bore. I followed with lubing via the 3-2-1 method reassembled, and went to shoot another 500 rounds through it. Will it pass a white glove from my BCT Drill Sergeant? Nope, but then again, it doesn't need to!

 

[sloughfoot]

I don't know about the M&P 22, but I have a S&W 41 that I put a couple of drops of breakfree on the rounds in the magazine, or it will choke up. It is a very expensive target pistol. I run the pistol very wet.

 

[bauerr3]

I just cleaned my newest 19 two weeks ago after 2500 rounds of a little bit of everything! It was dirty and gunky but it never skipped a beat. I only cleaned it superficially by hosing it down with gun scrubber, and running a patch through the bore. I followed with lubing via the 3-2-1 method reassembled, and went to shoot another 500 rounds through it. Will it pass a white glove from my BCT Drill Sergeant? Nope, but then again, it doesn't need to!

^ I just got back from training August 6, I feel like I have to clean my firearms for fear of what might happen if they don't pass a random inspection...haha

 

[Hopper]

FWIW, I go fairly light on the gun oil with my 22's. It's a bit of a dirty round, and too much oil attracts lots of nasty. Too much lube can wreck any gun. I find that the Hornady "One Shot" cleaner & dry lube keeps my 22's running just fine.

 

[WebHobbit]

While I don't have a .22 I do own a couple of 9 mms (and in the past 24 years I have owned a lot of other handguns from .44s, .45s to .38s and .357s). I guess I'm a bit old school as I still believe in the old standard of ALWAYS cleaning any gun that I've shot. Generally I shoot between 100 & 200 rounds in a range session. After such a session I NEVER allow that fouled gun to go back in my expensive leather holster until it's tore down and cleaned both externally and internally, the bore and chamber.

I use a soft aluminum rod with brass & plastic jags. The bore gets soaked with patches dripping Hoppes #9 & then scrubbed with a brass bore brush of the correct size for the caliber. Then another wet patch...then a dry one. If the patch comes out CLEAN with no fouling I declare the barrel clean...if it's dirty the process is repeated until it IS clean. I also check with a cheap plastic bore light (works off sun light). I clean out the chamber with a brass brush (and Hoppes #9). I also use nylon and/or old toothbrushes for other dirty parts/areas. After everything is clean I relube with gun oil (usually Outers or RemOil). I am a little heavy on the oil sometimes as I have seen FAR MORE trouble from dry guns then I have wet ones over the years.

I like having two nearly identical guns that share ammo/holsters and magazines this way when I go to the range I have my carry gun on my person (which stays clean) and it's "brother" that I practice with and goes home dirty. Then the next trip the roles are reversed. I NEVER shoot both carry guns in one session. I guess I am a bit OCD but I always assumed those guys going 2-5 range sessions between cleanings were just being lazy. I think good cleaning habits are especially essential for a carry gun. And really WHY would you wanna carry a nasty dirty gun? Makes your holster filthy and can foul your clothes too. I guess it could be different for non carry guns but this is the system I use with all mine.

 

[bauerr3]

While I don't have a .22 I do own a couple of 9 mms (and in the past 24 years I have owned a lot of other handguns from .44s, .45s to .38s and .357s). I guess I'm a bit old school as I still believe in the old standard of ALWAYS cleaning any gun that I've shot. Generally I shoot between 100 & 200 rounds in a range session. After such a session I NEVER allow that fouled gun to go back in my expensive leather holster until it's tore down and cleaned both externally and internally, the bore and chamber.

I use a soft aluminum rod with brass & plastic jags. The bore gets soaked with patches dripping Hoppes #9 & then scrubbed with a brass bore brush of the correct size for the caliber. Then another wet patch...then a dry one. If the patch comes out CLEAN with no fouling I declare the barrel clean...if it's dirty the process is repeated until it IS clean. I also check with a cheap plastic bore light (works off sun light). I clean out the chamber with a brass brush (and Hoppes #9). I also use nylon and/or old toothbrushes for other dirty parts/areas. After everything is clean I relube with gun oil (usually Outers or RemOil). I am a little heavy on the oil sometimes as I have seen FAR MORE trouble from dry guns then I have wet ones over the years.

I like having two nearly identical guns that share ammo/holsters and magazines this way when I go to the range I have my carry gun on my person (which stays clean) and it's "brother" that I practice with and goes home dirty. Then the next trip the roles are reversed. I NEVER shoot both carry guns in one session. I guess I am a bit OCD but I always assumed those guys going 2-5 range sessions between cleanings were just being lazy. I think good cleaning habits are especially essential for a carry gun. And really WHY would you wanna carry a nasty dirty gun? Makes your holster filthy and can foul your clothes too. I guess it could be different for non carry guns but this is the system I use with all mine.

I think that is a great idea, especially having two fairly identical weapons that you can alternate carrying/shooting. And I agree with continually cleaning your weapon, I think I will clean after every shooting session simply to get some practice before I get a carry gun. It seems like the preference for a little or a lot of oil is entirely up to me, but with a .22, does that change how generous I should be, or is it personal preference again?

 

[Cemetery-man]

After every range trip I field strip my handgun(s) swab out the bore and give the entire works a good cleaning with Breakfree CLP. After that, I lube everything, interior and exterior, give a quick wipe down to remove excess, apply some "Slide Glide" and reassemble. Then just before I put everything away in the safe, I normally give the exterior another good wipe with a silicone cloth. This has been my normal routine for over 40 years and I have never had a single issue with any form of corrosion.

 

[M67]

It's a little different on a .22 as they can be finicky.

For my carry and competition pistols, I clean them approximately every 5 THOUSAND rounds whether they need it or not. This tearing them down and cleaning after every 50-100rd range trip is just silliness (unless you just like doing it).

Hahaha. 5000 rounds if they're lucky

Agreed, cleaning a range/competition/carry gun every 100-200 is a waste of time, energy, and cleaning materials. Unless you really like doing it or have some weird type of OCD (I don't know people who have OCD about completely stripping their car engine every 200 miles though), shoot it for a while and don't worry about it.

If you're out in the elements getting caked in rain, mud, etc. it's another story. If it's straight powder crud, meh....leave it

 

[Slawburger]

After cleaning and verifying (for the 1,000,006th time) that it is empty remember to perform a function check.

The intent is to make sure it is good to go when you need it.

 

[palerider0485]

you mean they don't clean themselves... get patches rods solvent oil and wd 40. use solvent in the bore. lube with oil clean other parts with wd 40 any other light cleaner/lube. don't leave gun dripping with oil after cleaning is done, make sure bore and chamber are dry after cleaning.

 

[dhw9am]

I clean my guns after every trip to the range. I use Ballistol and have found it excellent.
I rarely have to use a brush in the barrels, since they are cleaned after each use.
I just can't stand dirty things. My cars are washed many times during a months time.
It's just what makes me happy.