What to look for when revolver shopping.

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  • Redhorse

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    As much as I've been on here, I should probably know something about revolvers. I usually post in all the threads about them, talk about them, etc. However, because I'm bored and want to learn something new, tell me what you guys look for when you're buying revolvers. I know a few things but I'd like to learn more.
     

    planedriver

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    #1. Will it lock up tight
    #2. Smooth function when cycling to the next chamber.
    #3. Any indication of mis alignment between cylinder and barrel.

    After #1 through 3 it's all pretty much fit, finish, wear, ammo and parts availability, value and of course how you like it.
     

    Mgderf

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    Look at the under side of the top strap just behind the forcing cone, just in front of the cylinder.
    Look for any signs of gas-cutting.
     

    Kirk Freeman

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    Bosshoss

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    MADISON

    :lol2:
    Going to a Glock forum for S&W revolver advice??????? What could go wrong there.
    Some of the advice in that thread is good, some of it is flat out WRONG.

    I've posted this a couple of times before and while it is directed at the K frame a member was looking at it carries over to all modern S&W revolvers. It is not a complete Revolver check but covers the basics.

    Hi and welcome to the world of revolvers.
    A quick overview on a S&W revolver would be:
    First the overall condition of the gun. Does it look like it was used alot, most revolvers are put up and shot a few times a year or carried alot and shot very little.
    The biggest problem on a K frame(the ones you are looking at are all K frames) I would be concerned about is flame cutting this is the area above the barrel on the top strap where the barrel and cylinder almost touch. This happens when a LOT of .357 or .38 +p stuff is fired. A little flame cutting is normal but if it is really deep I would pass on the gun as there are lots of better ones out there. This cannot be fixed.
    Check barrel for bulges from firing a squib load and one right after it with the squib load still in the barrel.
    Check the forcing cone for cracks.This is the part of barrel that sticks thru the frame and almost touchs cylinder. Cracks will be fairly noticable.
    Ask the shop if you can dryfire the revolver if they won't let you dryfire it I would walk away.(unless it is a .22).
    Check gun for empty and then see how much the cylinder moves front to rear should be almost no or very little movement.
    Next check timing this is done by holding gun in normal position(not sideways) and slowly pull the trigger DA to the rear listen for a click( the cylinder locking up) right before the hammer falls.
    Next is cylinder lock up, as before pull trigger double action and the when the hammer falls KEEP HOLDING the trigger all the way back. Now with other hand see how much side to side play the cylinder has it will move some thay all do. But it should not have alot of side to side play.
    Last check is for push off. Pull the hammer back until single action notch catchs and hold the hammer back.
    Now push the hammer forward with your thumb.
    If it pushs off with very little pressure the gun might need parts to correct it.
    ALL S&W revolvers will push off if you REALLY push on the hammer so don't get carried away.
    If it suprises you how easy it pushes off it is probably been worked on by someone and messed up.
    A rule of thumb(PUN INTENDED:D) I use it should not take take less pressure to push the hammer forward than it does to pull the trigger in double action.
    Everything above can be fixed EXCEPT the flame cutting. BUT will add to the cost of the revolver.
    Good luck
     

    Bigtanker

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    100_0398.jpg


    flamecut-686--s113-1.jpg
     

    kawtech87

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    Rugers may not be on par with a custom shop S&W. But at least they don't have a Hilary hole. They work and keep working even through some loads that would have a S&W running for the hills. And the new Match Champion is a freaking sweet looking and handling revolver. I just picked one up and have yet to shoot it but the trigger is as good or better than my old Smith from the 80s.
     

    Dog1

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    Rugers may not be on par with a custom shop S&W. But at least they don't have a Hilary hole. They work and keep working even through some loads that would have a S&W running for the hills. And the new Match Champion is a freaking sweet looking and handling revolver. I just picked one up and have yet to shoot it but the trigger is as good or better than my old Smith from the 80s.


    Uh huh...and I have seen plenty of clunky Rugers **** the bed while an S&W keeps right on chugging along.

    I'll take a lock over a boat anchor any day.

    Oh and while S&W might have the lock, at least they never advocated a mag ban like that POS Bill Ruger did. May he rot in hell.
     
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