New Ruger GP100 Problem

[EdC]

I would have posted this in gunsmithing, but as it's all packed up ready to return for warranty service, I'll just ask here, and more out of curiosity than anything.

Bought a new Ruger GP100 about ten days ago, dry firing it with snap caps. After maybe 150 times, an intermittent problem developed. The cylinder would not turn for maybe 3-5 times in a row. No binding, the cylinder latch disengaged and engaged properly on every cycle, except the cylinder would remain motionless.

It's as if the cylinder hand just decided not to stick it's head out for a few times. Then it would resume working ok for another 20-30 cycles or so.

What has me puzzled is that I would think that if the cylinder hand was getting stuck somewhere during the cycle, there would be some binding, either on the trigger in DA or the hammer in SA.

Any thoughts?

 

[1775usmarine]

Tagged. Looking to buy one here in the next few weeks.

 

[Hopper]

I've heard of this happening before. I recently acquired a GP100 Match Champion, and had one cylinder that seemed "sticky". Not quite what you are describing, but the trigger didn't want to reset when slowly releasing it, and indexing through the cylinders numerous times would consistently indicate one cylinder that seemed problematic.

I tore mine almost completely apart, everything off the frame that could be removed - crane, removed cylinder from the crane, removed the hammer, and dropped the trigger assembly. Sounds a lot more daunting than it is, it's actually quite easy and literally takes just a few minutes to do after removing the grips. I wiped everything down to be as spotless as I could, really hit the trigger assembly with some Hornady One-Shot dry lube/cleaner, wiped everything down again, lightly lubed the parts that needed it, and voila - really made a difference. Also, FWIW, make sure the ejector isn't missing any "teeth", and that there is no dirt/grime that has gotten stuck under the ejector/back side of the cylinder.

Sounds to me like that indexing arm isn't playing nice with the cylinder, but that's just a guess. If you lived closer I'd be happy to tear into it with you, but being under warranty, there's no reason not to send it back to Ruger. You'll have it back in no time, and it will be good as new. I promise you will not regret owning this gun. And if you do, feel free to keep my name handy.

 

[mpd]

Send it back... My ruger gp100 blew up after shooting a double charged reload. They replaced the entire gun no questions asked. It'll take about a month for your gun to be replaced, but the customer service by them is great. I would buy from them again.

 

[red_zr24x4]

Send it back... customer service by them is great. I would buy from them again.

From the customer service my brother got from Ruger, I'll buy one any day, heck I'll buy 2 any day.

 

[dyerwatcher]

You will be well taken care of

 

[mrortega]

My shop had a problem with a customer's new GP100 and, ironically, I had the same problem with a new stainless 5 1/2" Red Hawk. The cylinder would start binding up and finally not turn or even open. We sent his back and I sent mine in. They returned mine several weeks later with a simple note, "New ejector screw." I haven't had the problem since. I wasn't there when the customer's gun came back so I don't know what they did to his but I imagine it was the same thing they did to mine.

 

[EdC]

Quick service from Ruger. Called them, emailed me a label, and in FedEx last Friday. Delivered to my door today, adjusted pawl, and touched up a couple of things I asked them to.

Unfortunately, Ruger didn't fix the problem. As it's an intermittent one (when I got it back, the problem showed up after about 150 trigger pulls) this time I took a video of the malfunction and will send it to them. My guess is that they couldn't duplicate the problem, did an adjustment and sent it back.

 

[Hopper]

Well crappit, that's unusual, and sorry to hear this. Do NOT give up on that gun, send it back in! This is really peculiar... how do you get it out of this bad state of "binding" when it happens?

Really too bad you're not closer. Not only would I not mind doing a complete take-down on this (I do love a good tinkering challenge), but I'd like to see what's happening. Can you post up the video here?

 

[Drail]

This may not be the problem in your case but it is very common for people who are new to Ruger DA revolvers to short stroke the trigger a very tiny amount when firing rapid strings because the Ruger trigger linkage resets slower and requires a full forward stoke before you can come back on it. If you come back just a millisecond before the trigger has reset the action will lock exactly as you described. People used to shooting S&W revolvers have to get used to the long slow reset on a Ruger. You can run a heavier return spring if you want. The other cause of this is from burrs left inside the hole that the trigger return spring rides in and/or the pawl window in the frame. I have worked on a lot of Rugers and almost always found machining trash in there. Ruger designs and builds really great guns but their debur department does a pretty lousy job of cleaning up the frames and sub frames. It can be fixed - you just gotta find and remove all of the burrs.

 

[EdC]

Well crappit, that's unusual, and sorry to hear this. Do NOT give up on that gun, send it back in! This is really peculiar... how do you get it out of this bad state of "binding" when it happens?

Really too bad you're not closer. Not only would I not mind doing a complete take-down on this (I do love a good tinkering challenge), but I'd like to see what's happening. Can you post up the video here?

Thanks for the offer. I'll try to post the vid. The cylinder doesn't bind, it just acts as if there wasn't a pawl (or "hand", depending on one's preferred nomenclature) in the gun. Pull the trigger, the hammer comes back and falls, but he cylinder remains motionless. Same thing on single action. Pull the hammer back, trigger moves back and catches on the sear, but the cylinder is motionless. Try it a few more times, and it starts working again. Try it some more and it fails again.

Although I'm curious, because it's a brand new gun I'm resisting the urge to open it up.

 

[Drail]

If you are not familiar with Ruger DA guns I would not recommend opening it up. There are at least 4 tiny plungers and springs that will launch across your shop when you remove the trigger guard with all of the linkage attached to it. If you want to proceed be very careful.

 

[in625shooter]

This may not be the problem in your case but it is very common for people who are new to Ruger DA revolvers to short stroke the trigger a very tiny amount when firing rapid strings because the Ruger trigger linkage resets slower and requires a full forward stoke before you can come back on it. If you come back just a millisecond before the trigger has reset the action will lock exactly as you described. People used to shooting S&W revolvers have to get used to the long slow reset on a Ruger. You can run a heavier return spring if you want. The other cause of this is from burrs left inside the hole that the trigger return spring rides in and/or the pawl window in the frame. I have worked on a lot of Rugers and almost always found machining trash in there. Ruger designs and builds really great guns but their debur department does a pretty lousy job of cleaning up the frames and sub frames. It can be fixed - you just gotta find and remove all of the burrs.

^^Look at This^^ If you are a SIG or Glock or about any other shooter and moved to a Revolver you could be short stroking the trigger. You did not mention if the hammer was cocking or not. If the hammer is staying down and the Cylinder is rotating then your short stroking. Not 100% unless I actually saw it but just an idea.

If it is something mechanical or a QC issue Ruger will make it right

 

[EdC]

^^Look at This^^ If you are a SIG or Glock or about any other shooter and moved to a Revolver you could be short stroking the trigger. You did not mention if the hammer was cocking or not. If the hammer is staying down and the Cylinder is rotating then your short stroking. Not 100% unless I actually saw it but just an idea.

If it is something mechanical or a QC issue Ruger will make it right

I wish it was operator error. No, the hammer cocks, and I'm familiar with revolvers and short stroking. I have another GP100 6" bought from an INGO'er, and no problems. I tried posting a video last night, but no go.

 

[Drail]

Then Ruger will fix it. GPs are great guns but like a 1911 they sometimes need some "tweaking". It's mass produced. (but very high quality mass produced.) The first part I would look real hard at is the hammer dog. If it's only 3 thous." short - the DA will stutter like your description. You can peen them a little longer if you can't get a new one. My wife shot a GP in IPSC and steel for 5 years or so and at about 50K rounds the gun developed a hitch in its DA. I stretched the hammer dog and the gun cycled like new. I think Ruger didn't look closely enough at your gun. Send it back.

 

[Leo]

I have had several GP100 series revolvers and they have been dependable and accurate. Let them have a look at it.

 

[EdC]

Then Ruger will fix it. GPs are great guns but like a 1911 they sometimes need some "tweaking". It's mass produced. (but very high quality mass produced.) The first part I would look real hard at is the hammer dog. If it's only 3 thous." short - the DA will stutter like your description. You can peen them a little longer if you can't get a new one. My wife shot a GP in IPSC and steel for 5 years or so and at about 50K rounds the gun developed a hitch in its DA. I stretched the hammer dog and the gun cycled like new. I think Ruger didn't look closely enough at your gun. Send it back.

It's strange that the hammer dog would be the cause of that problem. I didn't think the hammer dog was involved at all with the cylinder rotation. Plus, I thought it came into play only on DA mode. Anyway, thanks for the input. The gun will be going back to Ruger tomorrow. Still can't post the video here, I get an error when try to upload the URL.

 

[Hopper]

If you posted this on something like YouTube, can you manually put the URL in a reply on here, instead of using one of the "link/insert video" buttons? I get the jest of what you're describing without it, but it would be interesting to see it.

 

[EdC]

If you posted this on something like YouTube, can you manually put the URL in a reply on here, instead of using one of the "link/insert video" buttons? I get the jest of what you're describing without it, but it would be interesting to see it.

Good idea. I've pushed my technical expertise to the limit, and I hope this works. It's out of focus (camera phone). The malfunction is early on in the video and my hand was getting tired, but you get the idea. You can't see my trigger finger, but I am not short stroking it. I swear. BTW, those are snap caps in the gun.

[video=youtube;8LwiphUUVM4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LwiphUUVM4&feature=youtu.be[/video]

I DID IT!

 

[Hopper]

Dangit, the video is marked "private". No worries, just get it sent back in, and please keep us updated!