How Much Pre-Travel

[dross]

I have a couple of CZ Shadows I converted to SAO. I put in a nice trigger with pre and over travel adjustments. One trigger breaks at just under 3.5lbs, the other at about 3lbs. How much pre-travel makes sense? It feels a bit safer with some pre-travel, but what makes sense? I'm taking these to Gunsite in a few weeks. Are there any general theories or rules of thumb for amount of pre-travel?

 

[llh1956]

Shadow

If you would install a 1485/T1 CGW disconnector that fits Shadow/85 non-firing pin block models. It will eliminate the pre-travel in single action. It is from cajungunworks.com

 

[dross]

If you would install a 1485/T1 CGW disconnector that fits Shadow/85 non-firing pin block models. It will eliminate the pre-travel in single action. It is from cajungunworks.com

I removed the disconnector on CGW's advice.

 

[llh1956]

I removed the disconnector on CGW's advice.

Oops that right I forgot that you went SAO. I have done a couple SAO. You can only take out so much pre travel before the action will not reset. When I had mine set where I wanted it looked about 90 degrees.

 

[Archer]

Generally speaking, I like a small amount of pre-travel, especially on SAOs. In a DGU, I will be keeping my finger on the trigger, and I like a little bit of leeway before the shot lets off.

 

[dross]

Generally speaking, I like a small amount of pre-travel, especially on SAOs. In a DGU, I will be keeping my finger on the trigger, and I like a little bit of leeway before the shot lets off.

What do you think you have? 1/16? 1/32? I read about 1911s with supposedly "zero" pre-travel, but that seems dangerous to me if your finger is on the trigger as you're extending out from the draw.

 

[Archer]

What do you think you have? 1/16? 1/32? I read about 1911s with supposedly "zero" pre-travel, but that seems dangerous to me if your finger is on the trigger as you're extending out from the draw.

Most of my 1911s have about 1/8th of an inch of pre-travel. My Glocks are set to maybe a smidge longer than that. I practiced for several years drawing, placing my finger inside the guard while extending, then resting on the trigger itself once presented. I'm no Wild Bill Hickok by any means, but I'm able to be fairly consistent with this method.

I've just always been of the opinion that if I'm having to point a gun at someone because I'm in fear for my life, I don't want to take the extra time to bring my finger down off the slide, find the right spot on the trigger, then squeeze. This way my finger is practiced on this spot, so I don't really worry about accidental discharge.

^Obviously during regular gun handling, my booger hook is out the trigger guard.^

 

[Drail]

You must have some pre travel or the disconnector cannot reset. You also must have some overtravel (just a tiny bit) or the hammer may chip the sear nose as it recocks. You can remove most of the pre or over travel but you need some. The actual amount will vary from gun to gun.