Refinishing help

[85t5mcss]

I have an SKS that is not numbers matching. I would like to strip it and restain it black. I would like the finish to be nice and smooth with a gloss look to it. What is the best way to achieve this?

The stripping isn't too big a deal, neither is the sanding aspect. But what kind of stain? Approximate number of coats and the best way to get the shine? Tru-Oil is that for bare wood only? I don't want it to be greasy feeling so I'm not gonna paint it black and then spray it with Armor All

 

[ryan3030]

My thread similar to yours

My results.

Hope some of that helps.

 

[the1kidd03]

My thread similar to yours

My results.

Hope some of that helps.

There's some good advice in that thread. I would also emphasize the use of a stripper vs sanding too. Pick the stain color you want and it gets darker the more coats you apply and be sure it is a true stain which soaks into the wood and not one of those new "poly" whatevers which combine stain and clear coat in one. It is like applying paint and if it scratches you will see bare unstained wood which will totally contrast the color you pick.

 

[85t5mcss]

OK, sounds like what I had already planned. Was not 100% sure, though. Didn't know if Tru-Oil would go over stain and with additional coats be glossy. I'll just go ahead, get the stain and get started.

What about this? Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen & Conditioner

 

[acelungger]

Buy Black Duro coat, get all the metal parts as shinney and smooth as you can, if you are going to paint the wood parts they need to be sanded down to wood and all blowed off, you can use denatured ach. or laquer thinner use a lot, blow dry and don't touch unless you have on a neew pair of thin rubber gloves, use the directions on the can. If you could find a toaster oven at a garage sale you could bake some of the parts.
Just my 2 cents?
Greg

 

[DragonGunner]

For a dark stain go with Dark Walnut, a couple coats should do, then get some Formbes Tung Oil High Gloss an that baby will look nice. You can get all this at your hardware store. Put a couple coats on of formbes, then you can lightly steel wool for more coats until you get the shine you want.

This Garand was done the same way except for a very light an deluted walnut stain an Formbes Tung Oil Low Gloss.

 

[N_K_1984]

Sweatin to the Eighties!

Before you do any stripping or sanding I really recommend sweating the cosmoline out of the stock. You really need to do your best to get the deep-set oils out of the wood. Rubbing down the stock with mineral spirits (on a rag) will help to remove oils as they come to the surface. I just refinished an SKS stock. I used NO chemical stripping agents, no water, no soap. The only time I used mineral spirits was for wiping down the stock. That's it. I tried my hardest to keep the wood as dry as possible every step of the way.

If you can put it in an oven, that works the best. PREHEAT the oven FIRST! Cosmoline melts at, I believe, 130 degrees farenheit. Remove all the metal parts off the stock. Get your oven ready, at warm or at it's lowest setting. Sit the stock in a cheap aluminum drip pan. Watch the stock, pull it out and wipe the cosmoline off as it weaps out of the stock. Bake until it stops weaping. Wipe down with a rag lightly soaked in mineral spirits periodically.

OR...

Pull all the metal parts off, wrap the stock tightly in paper towels until it looks like it's mumified. Now, put it in a black trashbag and put it in your car for week. When you're not driving, put the stock up on your dashboard, in direct sunlight if all possible. Keep the windows rolled up as much as possible. It needs to be hot in the car, so the heat can sweat all the cosmoline possible out of the wood.

Either route you take, patience is the BEST tool in your arsenal. The more patient you are, the better your stock will turn out. Good Luck! Keep us posted.

Not to thread jack, but here is the link to my 'refinishing' thread.
https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...nishing_an_sks_stock_a_story_in_pictures.html

 

[IndyGunworks]

tru oil can be applied over stain, and in multiple coats to give a very thick or thin clear coat, depending on how many coats.

 

[hammer24]

You really do want to get as much cosmo out of that wood as possible, if not it will eventually leach out through your finish causing problems. There are many ways to do so; sweating, oven cleaner, dishwasher on high heat (probably not an option if your wife is home.)

 

[IndyGunworks]

^^^ agreed^^^^

i prefer the oven, mixed w/ in with some liberal scrubbing w/ a toothbrush and fresh mineral spirits.

 

[N_K_1984]

Research told me that after drying and between coats of stain, buffing with a FINE steel wool, the finer the better, will add a nice sheen to your stock. Especially before the finish coating is applied. The color and shine of the finish will only be as deep and smooth as the layers of stain underneath it. I also read buffing between coats of TRU, BLO, or whatever finish you choose, is recommended. Along with buffing after the final coat of finish.

Here's what I did:

Before and after every coat of the poly/stain I used, I buffed the stock with the steel wool. I went with the grain, with LIGHT pressure. I used a 000 steel wool on my project. I have a nice "silky" sheen to the stock. It is smooth as a Yugoslavian Baby's bottom. The color is rich and has great depth.