Problem with conv. Saiga .223 Pt II

[snorko]

I previously started a thread on this a while back here:
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/long-guns/411964-problems-my-converted-saiga-223-a.html

It's been a few months and I finally had a chance to replace the hammer. No joy, problem persits.

When I was cleaning the rifle though, I noticed a hole in the gas block/front sight in the square cutout just under the front sight drum. It appears somewhat irregular and definitely is vented to the gas block and barrel. If you plug the chamber and muzzle and blow air through the gas tube, you can feel it coming out the hole. Pic showing the hole below.

All the problems I have been having would be explained by undergassing I think. This hole ain't supposed to be there, is it? If not, would a dab of JB Weld do the trick for a fix?

 

[mammynun]

My 7.62x39 Saiga does NOT have that hole. I'd plug the hole, but I don't know how JB weld takes heat...

 

[snorko]

None of my 7.62 AKs have one nor does my Yugo M85. But none of those are combo block/bases. I was 90%+certain this was a flaw but wanted to double check with the INGO braintrust.

I figure insert a wood dowel to block the interior of the hole then "tuckpoint" the hole from the outside with JB Weld Metal blend.

 

[mammynun]

None of my 7.62 AKs have one nor does my Yugo M85. But none of those are combo block/bases. I was 90%+certain this was a flaw but wanted to double check with the INGO braintrust.

I figure insert a wood dowel to block the interior of the hole then "tuckpoint" the hole from the outside with JB Weld Metal blend.

I was envisioning a cutoff piece of a drill bit and a spot weld, kind of like pinning a muzzle device... but I can see how that might be a challenge given the location. If JB Weld is up to the task (and I have no idea, never used it), your method sounds like it would be an easy way to go.

 

[warriorbob]

Who made the gas block combo?

 

[snorko]

Who made the gas block combo?

Bulgarian ak-100 series, per the original ad.

 

[warriorbob]

There might be a way to patch it, but I'd just go ahead and replace it, but I'm kind of paranoid like that. I'm not sure what would cause something like that and I'd bet you just got the one in a million faulty part.

 

[snorko]

How involved is that? I have no skills beyond basic disassembly and am not sure of any local smiths that could do it in a timely manner. Hence the patching plan.

 

[snorko]

How involved is that? I have no skills beyond basic disassembly and am not sure of any local smiths that could do it in a timely manner. Hence the patching plan.

OK, watched a couple youtube videos on removal/installation and it is definitely not something I would dream of doing. So I am going to give the patch plan a try and will report back. If that does not work I guess I spend $125 for parts and pay someone to install.

 

[TECKS]

Get a piece of drill bit or nail a little over sized and press fit it in there with a hammer and punch. You can even tack weld it as others have mentioned. Jb weld wouldn't do very well in an area such as the gas block.

 

[duffman0286]

Looks factory over drilled i've seen it once before on akfiles only proper fix in my eyes would be to take it off and weld the hole up (it should be taken off the rifle because there is a access hole for a drill bit to re-drill the gas port) my quest would welding the hole would fill the original gas port and require some clean up .... jb weld is not gonna hold up thats quite a bit of heat/pressure and would be alot to ask of JB weld

 

[snorko]

Looks factory over drilled i've seen it once before on akfiles only proper fix in my eyes would be to take it off and weld the hole up (it should be taken off the rifle because there is a access hole for a drill bit to re-drill the gas port) my quest would welding the hole would fill the original gas port and require some clean up .... jb weld is not gonna hold up thats quite a bit of heat/pressure and would be alot to ask of JB weld

That all sounds reasonable. I should think though the extra time/labor in repairing the old gas block/front sight would come close to just buying a new one. Ideally I would just replace it but A) apparently AK-100 series Russian gas block/front sights are hard to find in stock and B) there is no gunsmith in my area that I know of who has experience to do this work in a timely manner.

 

[duffman0286]

That all sounds reasonable. I should think though the extra time/labor in repairing the old gas block/front sight would come close to just buying a new one. Ideally I would just replace it but A) apparently AK-100 series Russian gas block/front sights are hard to find in stock and B) there is no gunsmith in my area that I know of who has experience to do this work in a timely manner.

sense it's Russian id say its worth repairing (but then again if it was Bulgarian id still say its worth repairing however with that said russian blocks are worth twice as much as the bulgarian) if you can get it removed just about any machine/weld shop would be able to take care of you (gun smiths are not always the best of welders but maybe someone can point too ones that are locally). If your handy look into what it takes to remove/install the gas block plenty of build videos and different techniques on youtube it may or may not be something you want to take on your self.

 

[snorko]

I will run it by my local smithy this weekend and ask him. He is very talented but I don't know if it's the kinda thing he would want to do. Sounds like a repair is better than a patch.

 

[TheWabbit]

I know I made a video about popping stuff off your barrel, the question is, 'Did I post it?' I like filming, editing...not so much. I use crescent wrenches and the hydraulic press to remove barrel parts (after removing the pin, of course). This will need a good weld job.

 

[55fairlane]

Jb weld works well if properly prepared, but this not the place for it, I would plug the hole and silver braze it, simple repair work IMHO....

Aaron

 

[55fairlane]

Second thought, can it be drilled and tapped? Then install screw with red loc-tite?

 

[Floivanus]

I doubt drilling/tapping would work due to the recessed nature. If you can't get it removed (easiest barrel part to remove though) you could find an 1/8" brass rod and someone with a tig should be able to fix it up, run a small file in there to smooth it mostly over and you should be good to go.

if you were to braze/solder it, you might run into more problems with heat affecting the temper in the area, and you wouldn't be able to plug the gas port channel either (braze/solder should stick to brass) safest choice would be to remove it and have it TIG welded IMHO

 

[Floivanus]

I know I made a video about popping stuff off your barrel, the question is, 'Did I post it?' I like filming, editing...not so much. I use crescent wrenches and the hydraulic press to remove barrel parts (after removing the pin, of course). This will need a good weld job.

Glad to know I'm not the only one who abuses my adjustable wrenches this way.

 

[duffman0286]

I doubt drilling/tapping would work due to the recessed nature. If you can't get it removed (easiest barrel part to remove though) you could find an 1/8" brass rod and someone with a tig should be able to fix it up, run a small file in there to smooth it mostly over and you should be good to go.

if you were to braze/solder it, you might run into more problems with heat affecting the temper in the area, and you wouldn't be able to plug the gas port channel either (braze/solder should stick to brass) safest choice would be to remove it and have it TIG welded IMHO

Have to agree solder is great but there is no need to expose something like that (especially something case hardened) to that much heat.... TIG great option even MIG is great as well even flux core would be fine for what your doing ... id recommend using some soild copper wire THHN or Romex properly gauged or the gas port hole 14 gauge???? as a backer to keep you from filling the gas port completely (but id still recommend cleaning it out with at drill bit afterwards).