Homemade Diesel Storage solution

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  • IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
    63
    Carthage IN
    Let me start by saying I thought this was going to be a cheap project. It wasn't. I predicted I would be into this for less than 100 bucks, but after I buy a MR. Funnel to finish the system off I will be right at 200 bucks. It could be done MUCH MUCH cheaper, but I had certain goals I wanted to achieve w/ required extra reinforcement.
    Parts.
    55 gallon steel drum
    10 ft. fuel hose
    Fuel nozzle
    petroleum rated sealant
    fuel pump
    Wooden movers dolly
    steel

    The goal was to have 1 years supply of fuel for my 1980 Ford 340 3 cylinder Diesel 55+ HP tractor. I wanted the ability to load this into my truck using the tractor, and remove it the same way. I also wanted to retain the ability to move the fuel drum out of the way, but still keep it indoors out of the weather and away from prying eyes. A 16 dollar wooden movers dolly on sale for 8 bucks at harbor freight was the ticket. A 30 dollar pump, 54 dollars worth of steel, 27 dollars in grounded fuel hose, 15 dollars for the nozzle, 10 dollars for the metal drum, some paint and I was in business.

    Started by welding up the bottom supports.



    Then reinforced it w/ the left over steel tubing from the cross members.



    Here she is sitting on the dolly



    Added some reinforcement to where the chain is going to be permently attached so the pin wont pull through with 440 pounds of weight on it as I raist it into the truck. The dolly is separate so when its lifted the dolly stays on the ground, that way when I set it in the truck its resting on the angle iron and I can secure it with a single wratchet strap.





    Then I welded a cross member the two uprights to keep them from wanting to pull together when its lifted in the air from a single lift point in the center.



    I welded a single hook on the end of the fuel nozzle. I used a simple 3/4 inch ball valve so I could set it in the tank and pump. I didn't want to have to hold a nozzle open and pump at the same time, and the premade nozzles w/ a hold open feature were cost prohibitive so I made my own. Its put together w/ diesel rated sealant and the bare metal has been primed and painted even though the picture doesn't show it. the hook prevents the nozzle from dropping into the fuel tank, and it serves as a hook to attach the nozzle pointed upright when not in use. the remaining part of the nozzle that sticks up above the hook serves to wrap the extra hose around it when not in use and the fuel drum is wheeled out of the way.







    Here is a close up of how it will be lifted (w/out the fuel pump in place of course) and how the center reinforcement works.



    Then I welded a T to the smaller bung that way I don't need to track down a screw driver every time I want to use it. I will need to open this sealed port when I fill to prevent the pump from drawing a vacuum in the drum.



    Finally I painted the word DIESEL on the side of the drum just to make it look more "official"

     

    jblomenberg16

    Grandmaster
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    67   0   0
    Mar 13, 2008
    9,920
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    Southern Indiana
    Good job! Given that you are trying to store a year's supply, what's your plan to keep the fuel in good condition, namely keeping water out? Just rely on the fuel filter in the tractor or are you going to run a fuel / water separator on the pump?
     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
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    Carthage IN
    the MR. Funnel I talked about in the OP will pull water out. It being stored in doors will prevent it from seeing quite as wide of temp swings as an outdoor storage would. I do plan on treating the fuel, with both a stabilizer/lubricator and an algicide for any potential problem, but it will all but pumped through a mr. funnel to remove any moisture that may end up in the fuel. I don't know what products I plan to use right now, rather I am going on a friends recommendation and just haven't made that call yet. I still need to fill her up with water and hang her by the chain for a little while to make sure nothing bad happens should I have made a mistake welding. once its proven that way I will let it dry for a week or two then add the treatment and fill her up... Not looking forward to that bill, but it will be a lot easier than a bunch of small containers.
     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
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    Carthage IN
    The property is 40 minutes away and I don't live on it yet so 55 gallons is definatly a years supply for now. I will probably go through triple that when we live there, but in a SHTF situation I would limit the use to essential tasks and 55 gallons will last a LOOONG time for minimal use in that sort of situation.

    I wanted to check the weight out and make sure it would hold nicely before I lifted 55 gallons and 200 dollars worth of diesel into the air so I loaded it up w/ water and used some "creative ballast" to add weight. I also had my large and small helpers there to make sure everything worked ok. Everything checked out ok w/ 605 pounds of weight and I even bounced up and down a few times trying to break it on purpose. It takes 75 cranks from no prime to FULL 5 gallon bucket and just a little over 90 seconds at a casual pace.




     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
    63
    Carthage IN
    I don't know if I would call it a small tractor either... well over 50 HP and weighs 9,000 pounds w/ the front loader. Not a HUGE ag tractor, but definitely not dinky either. She isn't afraid of some serous work either.



    Here is where she is kept




    And my latest toy for it... I have the cylinders all rebuilt and will tackle the spool valve as a winter project once I move out there but this thing is a beast

     
    Last edited:

    Brian Ski

    Expert
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    Aug 13, 2014
    1,331
    48
    Michiana
    Neat idea... If you can make a second one... Fill them both... Then use one, when it hits empty, rotate to the other, and refill the empty. Knowing my luck the SHTF when the tank is about empty....

    Couple other ideas... This has good reviews... But would hate to drop a barrel.
    Northern Industrial Drum Lifter | Drum Pullers, Rotators Stackers| Northern Tool + Equipment

    Barrel movers... Drum Dollies + Accessories | Drum Handling Equipment | Material Handling | Northern Tool + Equipment

    Looks like yours is more durable. Water will sit at the bottom. So when the barrel is about empty you can flip and pour out the sediment/water.
     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
    63
    Carthage IN
    good options.. I don't think I would trust that lifter though maybe in a controlled environment, but not over the rough terrain on my property... I have a second drum to make another one, and have most of the steel as well, so the second one will only cost a fraction of the first using leftover steel. I do plan on a rotation but will start that once I live out there and use the tractor much more often. I think I might do one for gas during grass growing season as well.
     

    dprimm

    Master
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    1   0   0
    Jan 13, 2013
    1,741
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    Just West of Indianapolis
    Was not slamming your tractor. Just was curious.
    Btw, did you build that sand thing for you son? Looks like you can lose the lid. Is that correct?

    I am VERY jealous to be able to out in the open like that. Many years may pass bf that happens.
     

    jblomenberg16

    Grandmaster
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    67   0   0
    Mar 13, 2008
    9,920
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    Southern Indiana
    Was thinking about this some more...wonder if perhaps you could replace the breather bung with a simple breather filter? A lot of guys use a small section of pipe and thread on a hydraulic filter or similar. That allows the tank to breath as it heats / cools and also when you change the level when filling or draining.
     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
    63
    Carthage IN
    Was thinking about this some more...wonder if perhaps you could replace the breather bung with a simple breather filter? A lot of guys use a small section of pipe and thread on a hydraulic filter or similar. That allows the tank to breath as it heats / cools and also when you change the level when filling or draining.

    I read ALOT of concerns about expansion and contractions in these drums. I am not worried about that with diesel in the least. It will be stored indoors and out of the sun so will not see the HUGE temp swings the outdoor tanks see. definitely less temp swings than the dual tanks on a semi would see and they don't use/need breathers for expansion and contraction.

    Perhaps its more of a concern w/ gasoline, but a lot of racing fuel is stored this way. Military JP8 is stored for LOOONG periods of time in nothing more than sealed 55 gallon drums and its way more volatile than regular diesel.

    All of the concerns I read when I began researching this project had a lot of speculation from people w/out experience, and the guys providing the other side of the coin saying it was not a big deal were typically the guys who are actually storing fuel this way and have more experience with it. My understanding is the best idea is to seal it off completely and make sure its full (talking gasoline) if its going to be for long term storage, or the more volatile aspects of the gasoline will escape through the breather and will degrade the fuel quicker. With my method I can put the mr. funnel on the breather bung pull the pump up out of the fuel and pump whats in the hose back into the drum allowing one pump and fuel hose to be used for both gas and diesel.

    Do you have information citing any specific reasons or concerns to go through the added expense and effort of your filtered breather idea?
     
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