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Old 04-10-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Water......?

Stocking up on water is a great thing. But a basement full of Sam's Club water means nothing if you have to move. I have a few water purifiers I use in Backpacking and am looking at a few large volume filters. What is everybody else doing to meet this possibility?
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Old 04-10-2009   #2 (permalink)
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a few people here are using this

Monolithic Marketplace - Just Water, Ceramic Drip-Filter

if you look through the threads you'll see more about it.
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Old 04-10-2009   #3 (permalink)
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I have tabs and and a steripen (awesome) for mobile use.

SteriPEN: Safe Drinking Water Anywhere: Handheld UV Water Purifiers


And this is cheap way to be able to sterilize a LARGE amount of water.

Straight off the EPA site...

We bought a 5 lb. bottle of "Shock" from Walmart for $10.97, you can find it in the pool chemical section. Make sure that it is the "Calcium Hypochlorite" not the "Sodium". MAKE SURE IT HAS NO OTHER ADDITIVES!!!!!!!!!!!

This 5 lb. bottle makes 640 gallons of "stock chlorine" (eliminates purchasing 640 gallons of bleach). Each of these 640 gallons of stock chlorine disinfects 200 gallons of water. For a total of 128,000 gallons of clean drinking water for the cost of one bottle of "Shock". And think of the space it'll save.

Directions are at Emergency Disinfection of Drinking Water | Safewater | Water | US EPA or as follows:

GRANULAR CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE.

Add and dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite (approximately 1/4 ounce) for each two gallons of water. The mixture will produce a "stock chlorine" solution of approximately 500 mg/L, since the calcium hypochlorite has an available cchlorine equal to 70
percent of its weight. (THESE STOCK CHLORINE GALLONS ARE LIKE BLEACH GALLONS)

To disinfect water, add the clorine solution in the ratio of one part of chlorine solution to each 100 parts of water to be treated. This is roughly equal to adding 1 pint (16 0z.) of stock chlorine to each 12.5 gallons of water to be disinfected. To remove any objectionable chlorine odor, aerate the water by allowing the water to stand exposed to the air for a few hours
or by pouring it from one clean container to another several times.

As always if the water is colored or cloudy add more of the solution (EPA says for regular Chlorine Bleach to double the amount of chlorine used).
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Old 04-10-2009   #4 (permalink)
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I'd add that it is a good idea to have a variety of water cantainers available, not just 5 gallon cans or what not. Nalgene bottles, canteens, bladder, 2-liter, etc.

Thanks for the info on "Shock". I might have to go get some.

I have tabs and an older PuR hiker filter (now Kataydyn). Need to get a couple new filters for it, but has worked well in the past.
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Old 04-10-2009   #5 (permalink)
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I'd add that it is a good idea to have a variety of water cantainers available, not just 5 gallon cans or what not. Nalgene bottles, canteens, bladder, 2-liter, etc.

Thanks for the info on "Shock". I might have to go get some.

I have tabs and an older PuR hiker filter (now Kataydyn). Need to get a couple new filters for it, but has worked well in the past.

Bladders are the way to go for E&E purposes.

They are best stored in full "condition" so as not to gain a memory in the plastic, and should only be collapsed for short periods of time.
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Old 04-12-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Unless you have a pond, I don't think you can store enough water for very long term survival.

However, if you have solar or wind power, you can run a well pump. If you live in a neighborhood where a well is not feasible, then you can use a couple dehumidifiers (or more) to provide fresh water for the long haul.
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Old 04-13-2009   #7 (permalink)
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I have a pond and am experimenting with bucket filters utilizing gravel, sand, and activated carbon.
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Old 04-13-2009   #8 (permalink)
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I have a pond and am experimenting with bucket filters utilizing gravel, sand, and activated carbon.
I've heard of people modify pool filtration systems to get water potable.
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