10/22 Takedown: Scout? Upgrades? Accuracy?

[roscott]

Thanks to INGO, I'm now the proud owner of a 10/22 takedown. It's really a remarkable little gun, and I'm looking for advice on how to make it even better.

First, since the barrel removes from the action for takedown, is it necessary to set it up with a scout style scope (mounted to the barrel rather than the action) to achieve any kind of accuracy? Or is the lock up good enough that a traditionally mounted scope will hold a zero even when the rifle is broken down and reassembled?

Second, what kind of accuracy are these guns capable of? It is threaded, and when my suppressor arrives, I am planning to thin the squirrel population with it. Longest shots would be 50 yards most likely, so 2 MOA would probably cut it, though I would be happy if the rifle could do better.

Finally, what 10/22 upgrades would you consider a "must," and what other upgrades would you guys recommend?

Thanks!

 

[BehindBlueI's]

I didn't put optics on mine, but the tech sights that trade the poo-poo irons for GI M-16 style sights were well worth it.

Playing the "battleship" game with my son I had no trouble hitting the 1x1" squares at 12y. Yeah, I know, it's a chip shot with a rifle and all but I haven't stretched it's legs yet. It seems to reassemble to the same spot every time if you set the nut in the middle per the manual....at least enough for irons not to be canted.

 

[Bfish]

One thing to consider is how your can will effect point of aim point of impact. For this reason only I think I'll end up putting an optic on my 10/22...

 

[Punkinhead]

I have a few 10/22's and strangely enough the takedown is the most accurate of the bunch. I have quick release rings for the scope and I did an experiment where I remove the scope, barrel, and suppressor and reinstalled them and shot a group. Lather, rinse, repeat several times. The POI didn't change. A key for mine is to pull back and release the action several times after reassembly or the first shot will be a flier.

 

[roscott]

I didn't put optics on mine, but the tech sights that trade the poo-poo irons for GI M-16 style sights were well worth it.

Playing the "battleship" game with my son I had no trouble hitting the 1x1" squares at 12y. Yeah, I know, it's a chip shot with a rifle and all but I haven't stretched it's legs yet. It seems to reassemble to the same spot every time if you set the nut in the middle per the manual....at least enough for irons not to be canted.

I would definitely want GI style sights, except that I'm planning to scope it, so I'm not sure it's worth doing. Still want them, but not sure it's worth it.

I have a few 10/22's and strangely enough the takedown is the most accurate of the bunch. I have quick release rings for the scope and I did an experiment where I remove the scope, barrel, and suppressor and reinstalled them and shot a group. Lather, rinse, repeat several times. The POI didn't change. A key for mine is to pull back and release the action several times after reassembly or the first shot will be a flier.

Thats a strange trick, running the action like that, but I'll have to keep it in mind! Hopefully mine will be as accurate as yours. Is your scope mounted onto the action, or forward like a scout rifle?

 

[Punkinhead]

Thats a strange trick, running the action like that, but I'll have to keep it in mind! Hopefully mine will be as accurate as yours. Is your scope mounted onto the action, or forward like a scout rifle?

Normal scope mounted on the action. I haven't looked recently, but I believe working the action is called out in the owner's manual. It made a difference for mine.

 

[DRob]

Other than sights, perhaps the best upgrade to any 10/22 is trigger work. I have several (had 12 at one point) of them in four calibers. All of them have had various trigger mods. The factory triggers are typically heavier than the gun. Think 5 lb gun with a 8 lb trigger. Swapping the factory hammer (hammer only) for a Volquartsen hammer will reduce the trigger pull to 2.5 - 3 lbs. It won't get rid of all the creep and over travel but it's a big improvement. I suggest a visit to rimfirecentral.com.

As for scope mounts...Some aftermarket barrel makers drill and tap the barrels to accept a VQ cantilever scope mount. This means the scope is attached directly to the barrel rather than the receiver. I had such a mount turned 180 degrees with a 2-7 pistol scope on a 10/22 converted to .17 HM2. Instant scout set up!

 

[Willdabeast77]

I personally would put a good optic on then trigger work. If you're good at DIY projects then you can probably do the trigger work yourself. I personally went with Kidd's 2lb drop in trigger. Made a world of difference.

 

[GChambers]

Another vote for trigger work. It makes the absolute biggest difference in consistency.

 

[nipprdog]

First, since the barrel removes from the action for takedown, is it necessary to set it up with a scout style scope (mounted to the barrel rather than the action) to achieve any kind of accuracy?

No.

Or is the lock up good enough that a traditionally mounted scope will hold a zero even when the rifle is broken down and reassembled?

Yes. I've owned two of them, and they hold zero just fine.

 

[minuteman32]

I have a couple of 10/22's, the takedown being the newest. I smoothed out the trigger myself w/ the fine stone from my Spyderco Sharpmaker. I also put optics & my 22 can on it. I have not been able to get great accuracy out of it, yet. Not sure why, but I don't get to shoot it much lately. I did just put an order in w/ Acme for a Gemtech Mist bbl and hope that might help some.
Good luck, from what I've heard this is a great little gun & my accuracy issues, I suspect, are more 'operator error'.

 

[Vespid_Wasp]

I am using iron sights on my 10/22. Specifically Tech Sights which replaces the front blade/bead and has the rear aperture on the receiver. Using the adjustment on the receiver to have a consistent amount of tension between the barrel and the receiver, I have had completely repeatable zero with no issues whatsoever of losing zero. So I think you would be just fine putting a scope on the receiver so long as you tension it properly.

I will admit I felt like I was taking a gamble when I bought my 10/22 takedown. All of the factory configuration 10/22 carbines I had experience with previously exhibited poor accuracy. I was very pleasantly surprised that mine shoots VERY well with both CCI Subsonics and CCI Standard Velocity. As well as some old bulk backs of Olin standard velocity. I don't think I have any of my targets left lying around here anymore but with good ammo you should be able to achieve your 2moa goal at 50. Mine is definitely good enough for squirrel heads out to 50, although it won't hang with my CZ 452. I don't know of many sporters that will though.


I haven't replaced the trigger in mine but it could definitely use some improvement. I would like to buy a drop-in from Kidd but I bought the 10/22 TD as my convenient and inexpensive behind the seat of the truck squirrel rifle, and if I start dumping money into it I probably won't be able to stop. While not 'great' the factory trigger is adequate.


I like to have a couple of 10 round mags in the pocket while hunting and a BX-25 mag is nice for plinking. But with the 22 ammo situation being what it is, who plinks anymore?

 

[Vespid_Wasp]

Thats a strange trick, running the action like that, but I'll have to keep it in mind! Hopefully mine will be as accurate as yours. Is your scope mounted onto the action, or forward like a scout rifle?

I think that is in the manual for the takedown.

 

[308jake]

Everything you could ever want to know about 10/22 TDs can be found at www.rimfirecentral.com. Great site with a wealth of knowledge.

 

[DepTaylor]

I have a couple of Take Downs and I LOVE them. Every bit as accurate as my standard 10/22s. Here are a couple that have the Tac Sol barrels and stocks and then the next picture shows a Magpul X-22 Hunter stock that I modified for a TD.