Logistical Questions about Reloading

[CraigAPS]

So, I'm thinking about starting to reload. I'm only in the planning phase at this point. Getting together a list and prices for what I'd need, figuring out where to put it in the house, etc. If I start to reload, I'll most likely go with the Lee Turret Press Kit that's sold pretty much everywhere for a decent price and, then, buy the other things piecemeal (The sticky thread about "where to start" is AWESOME!). I'd start with 9mm and .38 Sp. My questions are mostly about components and manuals. I realize that there are so many powders and bullets (manufacturers and types) out there that one can go through a multitude of combinations. Where does one even begin? You can throw a stone in ten directions with this question written on them and get ten different answers in reply (just be sure to duck!). So, what's the best way to not buy a dozen different powders just "to see what works"? I assume with bullet profile, I should just use what I use now with factory ammo (RN for 9mm and RNFP for .38). Is there a huge difference between copper plated and FMJ? As far as manuals, I keep reading that it's best to crosscheck among multiple manuals. How many is a good rule of thumb? 2 or 3? Would one of the "One Book/One Caliber" type of manual be enough? Are those a waste of money? How do you know which manuals to get? I have seen lots of people tout the Lyman 49th as a good manual. Is the 50th, which is out now, as good? I'm just trying to get all of my ducks in a row before taking the plunge, so to speak. Being that it's tax time and I enjoy letting the government hold on to my money for me, the next couple months is when I'll make the decision. Thank you for any info or advice you can give me!!

 

[Sniper 79]

Print off a burn rate chart. Your bullet weight and caliber will dictate what powder. Some choices are personal based on what flows the best in ones powder measure of choice(stick vs ball). Also whats available in your area will come into play.

I sold the few manuals I had. Mostly full of data I will mever use. I went with the paper caliber specific books. Keep in mind they are very old data. It's all for reference anyhow and you have to figure out what is going to work for yourself. Powder and bullet companies also publish data free online. I generally find three or four sources avarage out and load up.

Be safe and have fun.

 

[Sniper 79]

Print off a burn rate chart. Your bullet weight and caliber will dictate what powder. Some choices are personal based on what flows the best in ones powder measure of choice(stick vs ball). Also whats available in your area will come into play.

I sold the few manuals I had. Mostly full of data I will mever use. I went with the paper caliber specific books. Keep in mind they are very old data. It's all for reference anyhow and you have to figure out what is going to work for yourself. Powder and bullet companies also publish data free online. I generally find three or four sources avarage out and load up.

Be safe and have fun.

Don't forget to check your local library. Ours had The ABC's of reloading and some other helpful tidbits. Even had Elmer Keith and Skeeter Skelton. Tis the time of year to be reading, researching, and pulling that press handle.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

So, what's the best way to not buy a dozen different powders just "to see what works"?

Pretty much all of them work. You'll see, usually minor, differences in price per round, cleanliness of burn, how well it meters, etc. For general use pistol ammo, you're probably not going to see huge differences in accuracy as long as you've got a consistent load.

Look at the manual and see the size of the charge. When you're starting out, it's not a bad idea to have bulkier charges that fill over half the case volume. That way if you get a double charge, the powder runs over and it's really easy to spot. It can make a difference in consistency, too, especially with cartridges like the .38 special that have way more volume than really needed with modern powders. Run a small charge volume and it can become inconsistent and/or position sensitive. I learned that the hard way trying to use powders I didn't normally use during the Sandy Hook ammo/powder scare. Anyway, pick one of the larger charges in a powder that's available in your area and that gives you a place to start.

Plated bullets are fine unless you're going to push them really fast.

Manuals? I loaded for over a decade with just the Lee manual. Now I have the Lee and the Internet. Each powder manufacturer and many bullet manufacturers list recipes and keep them updated.

I tell you one trick I wished I'd known when I first started is keeping tabs on your inventory. It's really easy to be out of balance, so to speak. Have enough primers for 20k rounds, powder for 40k, but only enough bullets for 4k, etc. I have a pad in my cabinet now where I keep a running talley of inventory. That way I know at a glance what I need to buy instead of just guessing.

 

[Cameramonkey]

Here is my I'm no pro, but have been doing it casually for a couple years.

I like my Lee Pro 1000. They just released a new version of the Pro1000 and its even better. Lee gets crap for being finicky. Yes, my press can be difficult sometimes, but I also didnt spend tons of money on it. (it was gifted to me by a generous INGOer, and I've put a little $$ into it but not what some guys with the Dillons invest.)

I actually prefer plated over FMJ. Its cheaper, you cant tell the difference shooting them, and they are safer for up close steel work as there is little chance of any copper coming back at you because it isnt thick enough to hold together on impact. I dont know of any target shooting advantage to FMJ.

Im also learning that round nose flat points (RNFP) are better for punching holes in paper than traditional round nose, provided your gun will eat them. While the RN in 9mm makes a small hole with radial rips, the FPs punch a nice clean hole. (like the wadcutters) I find that much easier to call shots. Im working toward abandoning RNs because I just like the FPs more. (and easier to spot my reloads over factory)

I suggest finding a couple popular powders and seeing what works for you. Personally I go back and forth between Titegroup and HP-38/W231* . Both meter well and have a decent volume as I subscribe to the same school of though as BBI. They are also forgiving due to their volume.

Use LOTS of light, focused on your press from a high angle, including a light that shines onto the cartridge at the bullet seating station. Use your eyeballs to watch each and every shell to make sure the powder charge looks right before you seat the bullet.

And disregard anyone who uses the old trope "You wont save any money, you'll just shoot more!". No, I dont shoot that much more, and I find I'm not spending any more money as predicted by others. But YMMV.

Hope that helps.



*same powder, different brand names

 

[dekeshooter]

And disregard anyone who uses the old trope "You wont save any money, you'll just shoot more!". No, I dont shoot that much more, and I find I'm not spending any more money as predicted by others. But YMMV.

I started loading 23 years ago with a simple Lee single stage kit. My first upgrade was a PACT digital powder scale followed shortly by a Lyman powder measure. After ten years or so, the Lee press was replaced by a RCBS single stage press.

I currently load ten calibers and use cast bullets in about 80% of my handgun loads and shortly I will start using cast bullets exclusively in all my lever action rifles. My my next big step is to start casting my own bullets.

I have added a second RCBS press to my bench that is used for bullet seating and crimping. All the sizing and case mouth expanding is done on the other press. I will size, expand and prime brass first, and store it in labeled containers until I have time to finish them. Then I will charge cases with powder and when I have one or two 50 round blocks ready, my wife will join me at the bench and she will seat and crimp while I continue to charge cases. Using this system we can knock out 300 rounds in relatively short order. Using this system, I've never felt the need for a progressive press since I don't have any "pet" loads, and tailor my ammo around whatever components I can find at reasonable prices, the time spent resetting the press for different powders and bullets would be excessive.

All that being said, I do save money, I do shoot more, and I have also become a ammo and component hoarder!

 

[Leadeye]

Having reloaded for more than 40 years I can say that you will accumulate a lot of odds and ends trying to find the best load for a particular gun. Having a wider variety of guns will make the pile bigger, but in the end it's good to have a variety of stuff.

 

[CraigAPS]

Sniper - What do the burn rate charts do? Obviously, they organize how quickly powders burn, but how does that impact powder selection? I actually bought The ABCs of Reloading some time ago. Just haven't read through it yet. I did see that there is a chapter on powders. I just wasn't really sure what I should base selection on. I hadn't thought of going to the library. I guess I assumed that there wouldn't be much there. Thanks.

BBI - How can you tell if a powder is coarse or fine? Does it say so on the package? I hadn't considered an inventory. Right now, I know about how many rounds I have, but loading, especially multiple calibers, an inventory sounds like a great idea! Keeping track of full rounds is one thing, but when you're talking four components for each caliber, I can see that that could get difficult to keep track of. Are there any sites that have multiple manufacturers' load data? I looked at the Hodgen and Alliant sites. Both seem to only have a handful of bullets listed for their powders, and, while Hodgdon has both min and max charges, Alliant only has max.

Cameramonkey - A progressive is for "casual" reloading??? The room I'm looking at has lots of light, but, of course, the room is subject to change. I'm planning on having a clip-on type light on the bench to focus light where I need when I need it. Is there any kind of light that isn't good for reloading? What I mean is, are there certain kinds of bulbs that are actually a hindrance instead of helping? Standard bulbs, LED, halogen? Yes, I often see that saying. Part of whether or not one does actually shoot more entirely depends on time to shoot and how often one shot before starting to reload. If you only have time to shoot twice a month, and you always shoot 500 rounds each time (not that I do this. just an example), then if you start reloading and only shoot on the same schedule/amount, then you won't shoot more. You'll just save money!

Dekeshooter - That's kind of what I'm hoping would be the outcome for me. Not necessarily the upgrades, though I'm sure some will occur. But, I hope to shoot a little more while saving some money. I also really enjoy putting things together and figuring things out. So, part of the draw is the hobby itself.

Leadeye - It seems like everything in the firearms culture is like this! I've already begun my box of spare parts and holsters, as it seems many on here have noted happens.

I appreciate everyone's input thus far!

 

[BehindBlueI's]

BBI - How can you tell if a powder is coarse or fine? Does it say so on the package? I hadn't considered an inventory. Right now, I know about how many rounds I have, but loading, especially multiple calibers, an inventory sounds like a great idea! Keeping track of full rounds is one thing, but when you're talking four components for each caliber, I can see that that could get difficult to keep track of. Are there any sites that have multiple manufacturers' load data? I looked at the Hodgen and Alliant sites. Both seem to only have a handful of bullets listed for their powders, and, while Hodgdon has both min and max charges, Alliant only has max.

Powder: Sort of. I'ts not really listed as coarse or fine, but by shape. Ball powder typically meters very easily, flake powder less so. If in doubt, just ask here. Somebody has doubtlessly already used whatever powder and can tell you.

As for sites listing multiple powders, some bullet makers do. Hornady sells a book, not sure if it's available free anywhere.

 

[OHOIAN]

If I were you I would start with HP38/W231 powder. If you don’t already know, Winchester 231 and Hodgdon HP38 are the same powder in the same bottle just different labels, thus the load data is interchangeable. It works well in 9mm and 38Spl with just about any bullet weight, it also meters well and burns clean. It is widely used and has been for many years, so you should be able to find it locally and data is readily available.
The burn rate chart will give you an idea of what powders can be used in handguns and what powders cannot, but just an idea. Handguns will use the fastest burning powders, shotgun the medium, rifles the slower burning, and magnum rifles even slower burning powders. So most of the powders available to the reloader cannot be used in the 9mm.
As far as bullets go, what ever works well in your gun and doesn’t cost to much. A SWC or FN punch nice round holes in paper, while a RN tends to rip holes.
Lyman’s 50[SUP]th[/SUP] is as good as the 49[SUP]th[/SUP] , although not all that different, it just a few more powders and calibers.

 

[Sniper 79]

The burn rate chart lists all powders made in order from fastest burning to slowest. Your faster powders are typically used in powder puff pistol/shotgun loads, mid/slower burning for heavier magnum flavor and the slow stuff is for rifle.

Selection could be based on....how it meters, price, whats available, caliber, bullet weight/type, how economic it is, how hot it burns, how clean it burns. This will all depend on you, your style of loading, and most of all what your tying to accomplish at the range or in the field

Fun Stuff!

 

[Cameramonkey]

Yes. Lee Progressives are easy to run and wont break the bank. And much faster than a single stage because you run it all through at once instead of priming 50 rounds, adding powder to those 50 (and having to carefully store those open shells in trays), then putting the freedom seeds on them. With my luck I'd bump that tray of powdered shells and send powder all over my bench. I like how I just keep pulling the handle until a shell pops out. (while doing other tasks of course)

 

[russc2542]

Yes. Lee Progressives are easy to run and wont break the bank. And much faster than a single stage because you run it all through at once instead of priming 50 rounds, adding powder to those 50 (and having to carefully store those open shells in trays), then putting the freedom seeds on them. With my luck I'd bump that tray of powdered shells and send powder all over my bench. I like how I just keep pulling the handle until a shell pops out. (while doing other tasks of course)

Another way to look at is that progressive presses are for reloaders who just want to 'casually' spit out a bunch of ammo. single stages are for those that are more into fine tuning the loads to get them perfect rather than just a high volume production. or for those with a lot of patience that can't or don't want to follow all the actions at once.

 

[spencer rifle]

I use both for different purposes:
Progressive to crank out 124 grain JHP for general use. RMR JHP is about the same price as plated, and is real expanding JHP (depending on velocity). Not much changes there and absolute accuracy isn't required. Setup requires some time, and you have to watch various stages to make sure of powder drop, etc., but it can really crank them out

Turret for .308, since those require lube. Mostly just for range duty, but can be tweaked with an accurate scale to the point where I can put 4 shots under a quarter at 100 yards. This will turn out 228 rounds in a hour if I'm going for speed.

I have never owned a single stage, so I only know turret and progressive. I only have two powders - H4895 for rifle rounds, Clays for shotgun and pistol. Clays requires some care - pressure goes up rapidly with only small additions of powder. Not recommended for beginners.

 

[schmart]

For starting out, I recommend selecting a powder with a wide almost universal range of use. Take a look at the potential calibers and bullet weights you think you may use, and try to pick one that has loading options for all of them. As Ohioan says above, HP38/Win231 is a good choice and is what I started with. I switched to Titegroup, simply because many of the shooters I shoot with use it, and was able to get in on a group buy of a case and it ended up being cheaper (and available).

I've had to put much more trial and error into bullet selection. For revolvers, profile won't matter as much as far as functioning, but for pistols, round nose will feed better. Even at that though, some individual guns will work with a specific bullet and others of the same type won't. The same group of guys have quite a few 9mm M&Ps. One brand of coated round nose bullet would feed in most of the guns, but not in mine, with every 3rd or 4th not chambering. The same cartridge would chamber perfectly in the other guns. I never did figure it out, but simply changed bullet brands to one that worked. In the same vein, I've recently determined that my M&P groups better with 147 grain bullets than it does with 115 grain.

Because of this, I wouldn't recommend purchasing thousands of a single bullet to start with, but rather purchase 100 or so of several different types and weights and make sure it works in your specific gun before you stock up. If the bullet you want to try is only available in bulk, I suggest asking here. I'd have no problems selling/shipping a "sample pack" of a bullet type to a new reloader if it was something I have. Many companies also have this option available.

Hope this helps.
--Rick