Numbers on Glock guide rod???

[mrproc1]

Hey Ya'll....
I purchased a used Glock 23 with a steel guide rod, I replaced it with a stock replacement. I've noticed a set of numbers on the flange that mate with the barrel, do they mean anything. Do they offer a different spring rate if clocked a specific way, or do they mean nothing and at all and need to go watch the lighting bugs out back?
Thanks.

 

[mvician]

They are model specific, "series" numbers. Nothing more.

 

[NHT3]

I would imagine it would be 5593 for a 23 or 19 Gen 3.


[FONT=&quot]NRA Life member [/FONT][FONT=&quot]GSSF member[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
Gunsite graduate Certified Glock armorer[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]1911 Mechanic[/FONT]

 

[snowwalker]

Curious, why replace the stainless steel guide rod with a stock one? I like the stainless steel ones and got a tungsten one today for my G36.

 

[mvician]

Curious, why replace the stainless steel guide rod with a stock one? I like the stainless steel ones and got a tungsten one today for my G36.

Turn the question around the other way.........

Why replace the stock RSA with a (insert your choice here) ?


What are you really gaining?

 

[mrproc1]

Charile, I don't recall which numbers are on it.... I was just curious if they ment anything, and it should be put back at the same clocking every time?

 

[Hohn]

The only reason I can see replacing the guide rod is if you want to do a quick-change setup like the non captive Wolf setups, or otherwise just have some RSAs setup with stiffer or looser springs.

I might try the 24# Wolff as an option for the hotter 10mm loads, as they appear to help the consistency a good bit.

 

[Hohn]

Charile, I don't recall which numbers are on it.... I was just curious if they ment anything, and it should be put back at the same clocking every time?

I wouldn't sweat clocking or any of that. Just stick it in and be done worrying.

 

[mrproc1]

Got it,,
Kind of like,sit down, shut up, and hold on!!

 

[NHT3]

Correct, "clocking" does not matter. The number is Glock's part #.

[FONT=&quot]NRA Life member [/FONT][FONT=&quot]GSSF member[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] Gunsite graduate Certified Glock armorer[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]1911 Mechanic[/FONT]

 

[snowwalker]

Turn the question around the other way.........

Why replace the stock RSA with a (insert your choice here) ?


What are you really gaining?

Both are heavier then stock, the tungsten is quite a bit heavier, which results in less felt recoil and muzzle flip. I can tell a big difference. That is what I really gain. Can you answer my question now?

 

[mvician]

Both are heavier then stock, the tungsten is quite a bit heavier, which results in less felt recoil and muzzle flip. I can tell a big difference. That is what I really gain. Can you answer my question now?

Curious, why replace the stainless steel guide rod with a stock one? I like the stainless steel ones and got a tungsten one today for my G36.

To answer your question........

I've seen more problems arise when people start replacing stock parts with non OEM.

 

[snowwalker]

To answer your question........

I've seen more problems arise when people start replacing stock parts with non OEM.

In part I agree. Plastic sights should be changed to metal, maybe change to an extended slide release (depending on your training), but when I change the recoil spring I stay with the factory spring weight. I've done this for some time now and have not had the first problem and I change nothing else. I also put a captured stainless steel recoil spring in my Beretta 96, it helps. This works for me and is just my opinion for what I use.

 

[marv]

WTH is clocking?

 

[mvician]

WTH is clocking?

Lining something up with a mark.