Tips for a Revolver Newbie

[Plinkuh]

Thanks ALL for the tips and recommendations. I love this little gun. Check out my other thread; A First For Me for some better, newer pics.

So I'll be picking up a stainless pre-lock Taurus 85 tonight. It'll be my first wheelgun. I was just wondering if you guys had any advice for what I should look at before making the trade. I've heard terms like timing/lock-up etc..But, I don't (obviously) understand them fully.

Also, since I'm more semi-auto inclined, what should I do as far as a good grip? What about sight picture on this gun, is the front blade colored like some Smiths?

Sorry for the 20 questions, and thanks INGO pals.

 

[sbcman]

So I'll be picking up a stainless pre-lock Taurus 85 tonight. It'll be my first wheelgun. I was just wondering if you guys had any advice for what I should look at before making the trade. I've heard terms like timing/lock-up etc..But, I don't (obviously) understand them fully.

Also, since I'm more semi-auto inclined, what should I do as far as a good grip? What about sight picture on this gun, is the front blade colored like some Smiths?

Sorry for the 20 questions, and thanks INGO pals.

Oh btw, here's the beauty i'm picking up later today.

Some things to check for apart from time and lock-up include flame cutting (all revolvers do this, but a serious amount of it will tell you it's been fired quite a bit with some hot rounds). To check for this, just open the cylinder and look at the top strap right where it meets the forcing cone (barrel). If a grove is there, you will know. If not, good to go. Also check for a pronounced line on the cylinder, indicating several turns. Neither of these checks will flag a "no-go" on the revolver, but it will tell you what you're getting into.

The most important part of checking for "lock-up" will not be side to side movement, but front to back movement of the cylinder. Making sure the gun is unloaded, pull the hammer back and then see if you can move the cylinder front to back. A lot of movement is a bad deal. A lot of movement side to side is bad as well, but some is acceptable.

The biggest difference for grip between the revolver and semi is that you DO NOT want your weak hand thumb going forward. Intercross it with your strong hand thumb. Some guys will tell you this is no big deal, but you are asking for trouble getting any part of your hand on or forward of that cylinder gap. You will also probably benefit from putting a set of Hogues on it. Hold high on the backstrap with your strong hand, firm with your weak hand and just feel it out from there.

Now to the sights. The sights are ramped, which is similar to Smiths, but I can't tell if there is any color on it. If the whole blade is stainless it will be very difficult to pick that front sight up when shooting. You'll need to dab some model paint in the color of your choice on the front for some contrast. I once had a model 66 no dash Smith with all stainless sights (front and back) and couldn't stand to shoot it although it has a sweet action.

 

[sbcman]

OK, sorry, I just reread your post. Maybe this will help.

To check for timing, sloooowly pull the hammer back to single action. Then see if you can turn the cylinder. If the cylinder turns at all and then stops, you're out of time. Do this for every hole.

To check for lock up, pull the hammer back and move cylinder front to back and side to side. It will probably move a little, and a little is OK, but a lot of movement means problems.

 

[Liberty Sanders]

Here is a good bit of info for you:

http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1049606

If the revolver has weensie roundbutt grips like a classic Smith Model 36 you'll probably find it a bit hard to handle. If it has beefier finger groove grips they'll be far more comfortable.

Bear in mind that wheelguns, unlike slab-sided autos have a LOT more leeway in after-market grips. If you don't like the ones that are on it you can find something you'll like.

Make sure your fingers get NOWHERE NEAR the flashgap between the cylinder face and forcing cone when you fire.

 

[blamecharles]

Make sure your fingers get NOWHERE NEAR the flashgap between the cylinder face and forcing cone when you fire.

^^^This^^^ I had to keep pulling my finger out of the way firing my gf's 442.

also don't put yer eye out

 

[gunbunnies]

Everything mentined so far.... diddo, 100% on....

As too the Taurus 85, I have owned one before and not sure if it was just mine or if this is normal but it was my experiece that the cylinder barrel gap was very tight on that gun and it would only take a couple hundred rounds of lead rounds to keep the cylinder from rotating when cycling the gun. Easily fixed by cleaning the front of the cylinder and the back of the barrel but if you didn't know about it it could make you think something was wrong. A side note about the gap being small, it's not a bad thing, as the tighter it is the more velocity and more accurate the firearm should be, just a maintenance thing... My .002 cents worth.

 

[leftsock]

Make sure your fingers get NOWHERE NEAR the flashgap between the cylinder face and forcing cone when you fire.

^^ what he said

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wu3RO3Lr4fM

 

[leftsock]

If the timing seems off, ask someone you trust to have a a look at it. You don't want it to tear itself apart while you're holding it.

 

[Plinkuh]

Thanks for the tips guys. I was given some federal .38 wadcutters by a relative and was wondering if it'd be ok to shoot these through my new Taurus. I don't see why not but I don't know much about revolver?

 

[Plinkuh]

Now to the sights. The sights are ramped, which is similar to Smiths, but I can't tell if there is any color on it. If the whole blade is stainless it will be very difficult to pick that front sight up when shooting. You'll need to dab some model paint in the color of your choice on the front for some contrast.

This was the first thing I did after cleaning it up a bit. Dabbed some white halfway down the ramped sight. I could tell there was paint there before but it has faded/chipped over the course of 10+ years. Good tip sir. I wanted to do an orange paint but, I thought that was to akin to S&W revolvers and didn't want to shame the name

 

[sbcman]

Thanks for the tips guys. I was given some federal .38 wadcutters by a relative and was wondering if it'd be ok to shoot these through my new Taurus. I don't see why not but I don't know much about revolver?

I'm not sure what that Taurus is chambered in, but if its 38 or 357, go right ahead and shoot the SWCs.

This was the first thing I did after cleaning it up a bit. Dabbed some white halfway down the ramped sight. I could tell there was paint there before but it has faded/chipped over the course of 10+ years. Good tip sir. I wanted to do an orange paint but, I thought that was to akin to S&W revolvers and didn't want to shame the name

As a certified Smith Fanboy, I say on behalf of all Smith Fanboys that we appreciate to consideration

 

[Plinkuh]

I'm not sure what that Taurus is chambered in, but if its 38 or 357, go right ahead and shoot the SWCs.



As a certified Smith Fanboy, I say on behalf of all Smith Fanboys that we appreciate to consideration

LOL, thought you'd like that. And yeah, it's a .38spl

 

[Cat-Herder]

The older 85s (like yours) can be used with any holsters that will fit a J-frame Smith. The newer ones have a different profile to the shroud, and just don't fit. Ask me how I know... :-)
Anyway, the 85 is a pretty small pistol, and gets a little tiring at the range. Do yourself a favor and get a set of rubber grips. The wooden grips can be a bit punishing.
Paint on the front sight ramp is a good idea, start with white and whatever top color you choose will stand out better. I use my daughter's fingernail polish...
As mentioned, the cylinder gap on these is pretty tight, and while that's a good thing for accuracy, it can be a bear if it ever contacts the forcing cone. The gap on my Dan Wessons is supposed to be .006, and my 85s gap at .002. Really tight.

If you reload for it, use a good crimp or you're likely to get your bullets sliding forward in their cases. It's a little gun, and doesn't do much at all in the way of "soaking up recoil"....
That's about all I have. Enjoy it! It's a good little pistol!

 

[Plinkuh]

The older 85s (like yours) can be used with any holsters that will fit a J-frame Smith. The newer ones have a different profile to the shroud, and just don't fit. Ask me how I know... :-)
Anyway, the 85 is a pretty small pistol, and gets a little tiring at the range. Do yourself a favor and get a set of rubber grips. The wooden grips can be a bit punishing.
Paint on the front sight ramp is a good idea, start with white and whatever top color you choose will stand out better. I use my daughter's fingernail polish...
As mentioned, the cylinder gap on these is pretty tight, and while that's a good thing for accuracy, it can be a bear if it ever contacts the forcing cone. The gap on my Dan Wessons is supposed to be .006, and my 85s gap at .002. Really tight.

If you reload for it, use a good crimp or you're likely to get your bullets sliding forward in their cases. It's a little gun, and doesn't do much at all in the way of "soaking up recoil"....
That's about all I have. Enjoy it! It's a good little pistol!

Thanks for the post! I've done the ordering of some Hogue grips, and the painting of the ramped sight. How can I check my gap without proper tools? A credit card or something? I mean, maybe see if I can fit it in the gap? Those should be about .02 right?

 

[sangamospecial23j]

Be sure to give us all an update about how you liked it.

 

[woodsie57]

A credit card would be a heck of a big gap-but it's possible. [Probably .020 or so] You'd lose velocity and increase to chance of it spitting bits of lead out of the gap- esp. w/cast bullets. I have a couple of early H@R .22 revolvers w/ gaps twice that big- hard on the ears too!

 

[gyeakle]

yes you can. i use them in my 38 just like the one one here

 

[Cat-Herder]

How can I check my gap without proper tools? A credit card or something? I mean, maybe see if I can fit it in the gap? Those should be about .02 right?

To do it properly you'd need a set of feeler gauges. There really isn't any other method. But, unless you're experiencing drag along the cylinder face, or you're getting a lot of lead spitting/shaving around the forcing cone, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you can see a little light through the gap, you're good.
As far as what ammo is ok to shoot in it: anything 38spl+p and less will be just fine in that gun.

I had my 85 out last night for some load testing and it handles some hot +p handloads mighty fine.