I defer to sloughfoot but just for reference here is a reload I bought where you can see the ridges of the cannalure and how the top of the neck is crimped.
Red Fire 372
I light crimp everything i reload. Cheap insurance.
Early Cyler fan club member#1
Us Reloaders DO take pride in our work, yes, most anyone can make something to "Fit" into an AR chamber, but that is NOT the idea of reloading!
Not just me, but most (every that I have read) manuals will tell a reloader to size ALL brass-either FL or at least neck size.
The idea of reloading is to build GREAT-ACCURATE loads that a person can take pride in with the way they shoot AND look.
Consistaintsy is the key here--NOT just something that will "Fit" into an AR chamber...Bill.
PS: Sorry my Spell Check Foo is down..
NRA Life Member since 1976+Outdoor Sportsman
Literally 10's of thousands of .223 match bullets loaded over 15 years of competition. 52 grain, 69 grain, 75/77 grain. NEVER crimped a single one. I do not crimp my 55 gr soft point hunting bullets even though they have a cannelure. Always used a proper powder that fills the case so you cannot get bullet setback. Full length sized every one.
A problem with range brass can occur if the guy that loaded it before you didn't know what he is doing. Some dies will allow you to push the shoulder back way too far before it bottoms on the shell holder. When fired, that brass starts stretching about 5/8 inch up from the base. This thin spot decays pretty quickly, and when it breaks during firing, your extractor pulls out what looks like a .380 case, and the body and the shoulder stays in the chamber.
Ryan V. B. Come shoot USPSA with the Fort Wayne Area Practical Shooters : www.facebook.com/fwuspsa
Yes, but it really does not matter performance-wise.
Everybody realizes that the new brass that you buy was on its way to the factory loading line when it was taken off and boxed up into boxes to be sold by itself? By fate it was not turned into very good match or hunting ammo?
I don't disagree with anyones decision to neck or FL resize new brass. I just have found it to be not necessary. Ugly dull brass shoots just as well as jewel polished brass.
Red Fire 372
If you are using the lee factory crimp die, the instructions clearly say a non cantilevered bullet is perfectly fine.
Never crimp... Like RVB I'm too lazy to set up a new die.
Would you again describe what you saw as you saw the defendant carrying this owl?--Ballard v. State, 1974
I just wanted to update this thread for accuracy. First I've read in the 2013 Lee catalog that the rifle crimping die is safe to use on all bullets, even without a cannelure, and even is supposed to work well if not perfectly sized. (Their die is somewhat unique, so this information doesn't necessarily apply to other brands). It says basically that their crimp makes for more accurate shots either way.
Second, I read somewhere (Lyman's I think) that you should always check length, even on new brass, especially bottleneck cases. i did check the length on all my new LC brass, and found no need to resize or destroy any. I think I'm supposed to also chamfer/debur them, which I will do. And I wanted to point out also that I found a tool in the lee catalog made specifically for removing swollen rims, which was the main defect I encountered, so apparently this is not an unusual thing.
Finally, I wanted to correct my mistaken belief that the collet or neck sizing die was required for range brass. I had that totally backwards. I just learned that the normal full sizing die allows you to use any range brass. As its name implies, it makes the shell conform to factory standards, for use in any gun. It is the neck sizing die that can only be used for brass to fire in the exact same gun. That adds a fraction more accuracy by NOT resetting to factory specs, and really only competition shooters use those, so they don't come with most die sets. i've read warnings and heard myths about reloaded ammo for so many years now and have been perplexed by this, but now I know it is much simpler than I thought--I thought bottleneck cases required a special "advanced" step to make safe (sigh), but the standard resizing die should eliminate all worries.
Amazingly, I think reading the Lee catalog enlightened me more than reading Lyman's and everything else to this point! Now I feel like I'm really starting to understand the basics well. I hope this helps someone else who may be confused by similar issues.
Last edited by netsecurity; 07-23-2013 at 02:21.