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  • llh1956

    CZ Wizard
    Rating - 100%
    79   0   0
    Jul 31, 2010
    7,394
    77
    Lawrence, IN.
    From what I understand it is tedious but straight forward. The little spring lower right has a nickname un-printable here. Our local CZ whisperer named it.

    Thanks:bowdown: CM, but let me offer some info from my experience with this CZ critter;) that at times made me go psyko until I got the hang of it:facepalm:. In this picture that is for a manual safety gun that has the adjustable sear below the manual hammer. On a decocker gun the stock sear is used.
    The small spring lower right is the RP-TRS ( Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring). The little spring I have a special name for is the firing pin block lifter arm spring. The lifter arm is the part at the top right corner and the lifter arm spring that is not in this picture is placed in the almost L shaped insert cut. This is where the sear assembly pin passes through the spring and lifter arm securing the spring in the side cut which has an extremely small V cut to keep the spring from slipping out.
    Extreme care must be taken when inserting the sear pin through the spring to keep it from being deformed and keeping in in its V cut. If done correctly you will be able to raise the lifter arm under spring pressure and it will return to its lower position when you let go of it.
    Assembling a manual sear cage is easier than a decocker sear cage. On a manual safety gun the sear cage pin is the exact width of the sear cage and the sear cage assembly which houses the sear,sear spring, lifter arm spring and lifter arm is then placed into the lower frame locating notch and secured in place by the manual safety shaft.
    On a decocker the sear pin is inserted through the left side of the lower frame passing then through the sear cage that houses the decocker lever, sear, decocker spring, sear spring, lifter arm spring and the lifter arm, the pin then seats into the right side of the lower frame. Then the decocker lever shaft further secures the sear cage. So it is necessary to use a slave pin when assembling the decocker sear cage, then drop the sear cage into the frame. The slave pin is then pushed out when the sear pin is fully inserted from left to right, that if not done correctly will allow the lifter arm spring to slip out of its position or be damaged.
    There is more to it but I'm calling it a nite!

    The Whisperer
     
    Last edited:

    bjenkins

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    37   0   0
    Jul 4, 2014
    3,931
    48
    jeffersonville
    Man I got lost in the second sentence I think its easier for me just to keep bringing my CZs up north to you llh1956! You are great to deal with and a pleasure to know.
     

    Birds Away

    ex CZ afficionado.
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Aug 29, 2011
    76,248
    113
    Monticello
    Thanks:bowdown: CM, but let me offer some info from my experience with this CZ critter;) that at times made me go psyko until I got the hang of it:facepalm:. In this picture that is for a manual safety gun that has the adjustable sear below the manual hammer. On a decocker gun the stock sear is used.
    The small spring lower right is the RP-TRS ( Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring). The little spring I have a special name for is the firing pin block lifter arm spring. The lifter arm is the part at the top right corner and the lifter arm spring that is not in this picture is placed in the almost L shaped insert cut. This is where the sear assembly pin passes through the spring and lifter arm securing the spring in the side cut which has an extremely small V cut to keep the spring from slipping out.
    Extreme care must be taken when inserting the sear pin through the spring to keep it from being deformed and keeping in in its V cut. If done correctly you will be able to raise the lifter arm under spring pressure and it will return to its lower position when you let go of it.
    Assembling a manual sear cage is easier than a decocker sear cage. On a manual safety gun the sear cage pin is the exact width of the sear cage and the sear cage assembly which houses the sear,sear spring, lifter arm spring and lifter arm is then placed into the lower frame locating notch and secured in place by the manual safety shaft.
    On a decocker the sear pin is inserted through the left side of the lower frame passing then through the sear cage that houses the decocker lever, sear, decocker spring, sear spring, lifter arm spring and the lifter arm, the pin then seats into the right side of the lower frame. Then the decocker lever shaft further secures the sear cage. So it is necessary to use a slave pin when assembling the decocker sear cage, then drop the sear cage into the frame. The slave pin is then pushed out when the sear pin is fully inserted from left to right, that if not done correctly will allow the lifter arm spring to slip out of its position or be damaged.
    There is more to it but I'm calling it a nite!

    The Whisperer

    :blahblah: I only care that you know how to do it. ;)
     

    Birds Away

    ex CZ afficionado.
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Aug 29, 2011
    76,248
    113
    Monticello
    Man I got lost in the second sentence I think its easier for me just to keep bringing my CZs up north to you llh1956! You are great to deal with and a pleasure to know.
    I just got done fingering your PCR. It is really smooth. All of mine have the full Cajun upgrade so I didn't think I would like it but I was wrong. It's very nice. :yesway:
     

    bjenkins

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    37   0   0
    Jul 4, 2014
    3,931
    48
    jeffersonville
    I just got done fingering your PCR. It is really smooth. All of mine have the full Cajun upgrade so I didn't think I would like it but I was wrong. It's very nice. :yesway:
    Yea David from CGW said he has a lot of people just order the spring. And with everything else I have been spending money on I thought I would try it. llh1956 said it turned out very well, coming up that way and pick it up tomorrow.
     

    llh1956

    CZ Wizard
    Rating - 100%
    79   0   0
    Jul 31, 2010
    7,394
    77
    Lawrence, IN.
    Yea David from CGW said he has a lot of people just order the spring. And with everything else I have been spending money on I thought I would try it. llh1956 said it turned out very well, coming up that way and pick it up tomorrow.

    I forgot to tell you that I had to remove the stock trigger pin to do a proper polishing job. I put in a removable trigger pin!
     
    Last edited:

    llh1956

    CZ Wizard
    Rating - 100%
    79   0   0
    Jul 31, 2010
    7,394
    77
    Lawrence, IN.
    Has anybody dealt with warranty issues? Have had my p-09 for a couple months now, have only fired 5 rounds out back to make sure it functioned. I have however dry fired it probably close to a thousand times, anyway the trigger return spring just broke... Is it worth it to have replaced with a CZ or are there any better aftermarket? I love the gun wish I had the time to get to the range with it, but as it was bought to be a carry gun I'm not sure I trust the factory spring.

    Jon

    Never heard of that problem before. I would go to Cajungunworks.com and see what they have. I know they have ultra-light ones. Not sure if that would work for you.

    Easy to fix yourself , the spring is $7.00 + $3.00 shipping from Cajun Gun Works! You should also get the removable trigger pin $13.00
     
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