I know close to jack about vehicles.
But it's good to know we can still use the word tranny
carry on
Not only can we still use the word Tranny, at least one of our Moderators with throw a Tranny on his workbench from time to time....
I know close to jack about vehicles.
But it's good to know we can still use the word tranny
carry on
Not only can we still use the word Tranny, at least one of our Moderators with throw a Tranny on his workbench from time to time....
Not only can we still use the word Tranny, at least one of our Moderators with throw a Tranny on his workbench from time to time....
Is the battery good?no corrosion on the cables?Yes a weak battery can cause your tranny not to shift properly. There's so much electronic components in a car that the battery must be good.
With that many miles on it, my advice would be to try to find a low mileage trans on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market.
Might I say props to you dad for getting your boy a minivan for a first vehicle!
I love it.
Sorry I missed this thread... I was busy this last week rebuilding my transmission, my 4T65E none-the-less. (Not kidding, that is the truth)
I know you say the MAF fixed the issue, but if, by chance, it arises again there is a known problem with the OEM lip seals for the input/3rd clutch pistons. They are a short lip, and that short lip can wear a groove in the input piston over time. What will happen is the seal won't seal up properly, fluid will slip past and the PCS will try to compensate by raising line pressure. The increased line pressure starts to move the piston, and the lip seal makes good contact now and the increased line pressure slams the car into gear. It can be intermittent but most often it happens after you've been driving and you coast to a stop or slow-down then try to take off again.
Unfortunately if this is your issue you need #1 a new piston (the old one is wrecked), #2 upgraded aftermarket lip seals (the trans-go shift kit includes the 3rd gear seal but not the input seals). While you're in there I would go ahead and put a couple of the other valve upgrades in, they are relatively cheap.
If you want to do try a full rebuild I can get you hooked up with a full AC delco rebuild kit (with frictions & filter) for $32.
FWIW, regarding my transmission: The beauty of this transmission is that it can be rebuilt (minus TCC & differential) in the car just by lowering the driver side of the engine cradle enough to remove the end-cover of the transmission. That is what I did. With 223,000 miles on mine (the last 151,000 have all been put on since I owned the car) I knew it was going to need some parts & upgrades.
Symptoms: Lost 4th gear (mine is pre-2002 so I knew exactly what the cause was) and input piston not sealing (as described above)
What I did to my transmission:
Trans-go shift kit
Superior K098 AFL valve upgrade
Sonnax TCC apply valve upgrade
Sonnax TCC relief valve upgrade
Aforementioned AC Delco rebuild kit (I didn't use the Delco lip seals where upgraded seals were available, and didn't need the frictions)
4th gear clutch hub/shaft with hardened splines
Reconditioned input clutch piston
Used, like-new pump shaft (mine was almost gone)
11 qts Valvoline Dex/Merc Max-life ATF
While I had the engine cradle lowered I did plugs & wires too because the rear plugs are a PITA to get to unless you lower the cradle. All combined I'll have ~$400 in parts & upgrades but if it gets me another 100k+ miles I'll be happy. This car has been a SOLID car and I hate to let go of it...