Truer words have never been spoken.When you own a home, you are always at the edge of something expensive.
Truer words have never been spoken.When you own a home, you are always at the edge of something expensive.
You just had a lot of storms go through over there right? Maybe a surge took out the plug? Can you test to see if you are getting proper voltage at the board?Well, whadayaknowboutthat. I hit the recharge button, and nothing happens. It is scheduled to happen at midnight. I have replaced the plastic gear that the motor drove, then some time latter I had to replace the motor. Or maybe the other way around, it's been a few years. Circuit board is clean. Hmm.
I bought a Kinetico Model 60 in 1996. It has dual resin tanks and an impeller meter so it uses no electricity and recharges based on the actual gallons used. With the dual resin tanks, you can recharge any time, because it switches to the new tank and recharges the other one, with no interruption in soft water or pressure.We've got a Kenetico (on demand style) water softener that my parents had installed in the early 90s and it has never had anything done to it other than an o-ring being replaced about 5 years ago. Our water is very hard and I'm amazed and thankful that it has worked so well all these years.
They don't make them like they used to, so chances are you're good to go for a while still.Now you are scaring me with these short life predictions. I bought this house with a Kinetico softner 12 years ago. The man I bought it from said it came with the house when he bought the place. I have done nothing but add salt. My "new" water heater was installed in 2015, and did need a T&P valve replaced, but is still running. I am probably right at the edge of something expensive.
Power appears to be fine. LCD display lights up, clock is correct time, push the button and the tank light comes on. Stepped thru the programing just to make sure nothing got scrambled. I am capable of checking the input power.You just had a lot of storms go through over there right? Maybe a surge took out the plug? Can you test to see if you are getting proper voltage at the board?
Just trying to weed out the small things first.
The last easy step in my opinion is to unplug it for about 30 seconds and try to see if the electronics will reset. If not then at least you tried before doing parts or a new one.Power appears to be fine. LCD display lights up, clock is correct time, push the button and the tank light comes on. Stepped thru the programing just to make sure nothing got scrambled. I am capable of checking the input power.
What is that?At least you don't have to deal with one of these:
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Allegedly it's supposed to last a lifetime, but we'll see. It should increase the life of my water heater and softener when I get to installing that.
An Iron Filter. I've got iron in my water. Bad. Also sulfur, arsenic, and manganese. It also has a layer of ozone that kills bacteria and stuff. That filter gets rid of all that, but they're pretty expensive and typically not worth it unless you got a lot of iron.What is that?
Thanks. We have iron but the iron out salt gets most of it. Glad we don’t need something else.An Iron Filter. I've got iron in my water. Bad. Also sulfur, arsenic, and manganese. It also has a layer of ozone that kills bacteria and stuff. That filter gets rid of all that, but they're pretty expensive and typically not worth it unless you got a lot of iron.
So based on this- question(s)At least you don't have to deal with one of these:
View attachment 351816
Allegedly it's supposed to last a lifetime, but we'll see. It should increase the life of my water heater and softener when I get to installing that.
So keep in mind IANAWTE (I Am Not a Water Treatment Expert), so take everything I say with a grain of salt. What I was told by a friend who is a plumber/HVAC installer, any water with iron above a certain level will need an iron filter. I believe he said above 7 parts per million, however we had that talk a few months ago. Anything below that can be handled with either a iron eliminating water softener which has a zeal lite system that acts as a mini iron filter, or iron eliminating salt as you mentioned.So based on this- question(s)
I've lived in my house for 10 years....and don't be too hard on me- I have a rented water softener. When we bought the place, it was already there. Meant to replace it, but 10 years later- never got around to it- just keep paying the bill.
Anyhoo, we are on a well and we have rust. We have a particulate filter that we replace every month (allegedly) and the aforementioned water softener. Between those two, running "rust remover" salt, the water is pretty good, but we can always taste and smell when it's time for more salt- rust.
After paying the water softener bill today, my wife asked if we should go head and buy one rather than continue to rent- yes is my answer.
A can always just buy a new version of what I have. It works, but what about something that will not require me to add salt? I know that there are salt-free "water conditioners" (pros don't like it when you call them softeners). Will that do as good a job on the rust as with salt? Would I need a separate rust system? What's the upkeep with a rust removal system?
Thanks.
I can answer this with a degree of certainty, though. Dedicated iron filter is a .50 BMG vs rust removing salt being a 5.56.Will that do as good a job on the rust as with salt?