3D printers

[dprimm]

So my buddy who has been 3D printing things for me is moving away. So I need to get a 3D printer.

Educate me on them. And software. Need a decent one that is not impossible to setup and keep operating. The one my buddy has is under $500. Would like to keep it that way.

Don’t recall which one he is using. Says there are better ones out there now.

The biggest items I am looking at right now are about 3” square. Others are about 1” by about 4” long.

Got to be simple to work. He will give me STL files. I will need to finish the other items we are working on.

What software do you recommend to design?

Thanks

 

[MikeDVB]

Creality Ender 3 is pretty good. I have a Prusa but they’re expensive.

 

[dprimm]

Creality Ender 3 is pretty good. I have a Prusa but they’re expensive.

Which one? Not horrible for them at $1,000. Cheaper if they just plain work. Time is what I am most short on. I need to be able to set it up and get running pretty quickly.

 

[AndreusMaximus]

I may be wrong, but I don't think there's any such thing as a 3D printer that "just plain works." There's always going to be some hassle factor in learning how to get bed leveling right, and how to get the right combination of settings for layer height, temperature, speed, support, etc, to work with the material and parts that you're making.

I have a Creality Ender 3 v2, and assembly and bed leveling was about as straightforward as it could possible be for a complete beginner. From there, most of the tweaking is going to be done in your slicing software, and I've found that Cura's slicer works well for me (there's a rebranded version of it that comes with Creality printers, or you can download it for free: https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura)

Maybe someone who actually owns a more expensive printer can correct me, but my impression is that while you can get a lot of benefits from a more expensive printer, like more features, larger bed size, higher print temperature for more materials, better print quality, etc, I don't think there's really much in the way of a printer you can just buy, turn on, and have it work right off the bat; there's a learning curve to figuring out good bed and layer adhesion, avoiding stringing, etc, and it all depends on so many factors like the exact type and brand of filament, the shape of what you're printing, etc, and I don't know that there's any avoiding that.

For that reason I'd recommend going with a less expensive printer to start with, and waiting to get a more expensive one down the road once you've learned the fundamentals and know exactly what additional features you'd like to have.

 

[MikeDVB]

Which one? Not horrible for them at $1,000. Cheaper if they just plain work. Time is what I am most short on. I need to be able to set it up and get running pretty quickly.

I've had several 3D printers and overall the Prusa has been the most reliable / worked with the least amount of tweaking.

I also have an Anycubic I3 Mega and a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro - they are both great but have needed a little more tweaking here or there.

Honestly the biggest thing is the slicer software.

Personally I would have no issues suggesting you go with an Anycubic or a Creality Ender 3 over the Prusa especially for your first printer. You will need to do a little more tweaking, sure, but honestly the tweaking I did on mine before I got my Prusa helped me to learn the ins-and-outs of 3D printing better.

 

[russc2542]

I've been printing for for over 5 years now and have half a dozen FSM printers working (Makerfarm Pegasus 12, 2 Qidi X-pros, another similar clone, 2 Ender 3v2s) and 2 MSLA resin printers (Elegoo Mars & Saturn). About a month ago I picked up a used Ender3v2. plugged it in, sliced a file with default settings, works perfect. Picked up another from the pawn shop even cheaper that needed a little love. limit switch and a couple printed bits... works perfect. For all the fiddling, fixing, tweaking, and swearing I've done with my other printers... get an ender 3 and learn from there lol. I know there are several versions with some different features but the two v2s I have are fantastic.

 

[MikeDVB]

I've been printing for for over 5 years now and have half a dozen FSM printers working (Makerfarm Pegasus 12, 2 Qidi X-pros, another similar clone, 2 Ender 3v2s) and 2 MSLA resin printers (Elegoo Mars & Saturn). About a month ago I picked up a used Ender3v2. plugged it in, sliced a file with default settings, works perfect. Picked up another from the pawn shop even cheaper that needed a little love. limit switch and a couple printed bits... works perfect. For all the fiddling, fixing, tweaking, and swearing I've done with my other printers... get an ender 3 and learn from there lol. I know there are several versions with some different features but the two v2s I have are fantastic.

V3 S1 Pro is a fantastic machine but a bit on the pricy side. Any V3 should work great though.

 

[russc2542]

V3 S1 Pro is a fantastic machine but a bit on the pricy side. Any V3 should work great though.

Pricey but add all the differences to a pro or v2 and you'll be in the same ballpark. factor in that it's built that way from the factory and I'd call it worthwhile if you're shopping for a new machine with that capability.

 

[Lpherr]

I haven't operated a 3D printer, but the files I use are the same.

My opinion is, the 3D modeling will be the steepest part of the learning curve, especially if you haven't ever modeled before.
Shapes with a uniform thickness would be easy (just using extrusion), but the multi-sided, complex models, require some time.
With some models, supports will be needed.

 

[MikeDVB]

I haven't operated a 3D printer, but the files I use are the same.

My opinion is, the 3D modeling will be the steepest part of the learning curve, especially if you haven't ever modeled before.
Shapes with a uniform thickness would be easy (just using extrusion), but the multi-sided, complex models, require some time.
With some models, supports will be needed.

Slicers tend to be really smart about supports and adding them when and where needed. Advanced users tend to modify these with the knowledge of what their machines are capable or not capable of.

Many 3D-Printers [the people, not the objects] just use models built by others.

I do agree that building your own models isn't easy - but it's fun!

 

[AndreusMaximus]

Yep, 3D modeling is definitely the hardest part to learn by far. I have designed a few parts myself, but it's pretty complicated, and you can honestly get a lot of use out of your printer just by using designs that are available online.

 

[Lpherr]

It's my guess, slicing is much different for printing. The slicer I use (built into the software) slices flat layers. The Z height of the layers, is determined by the number of layers input. Admittedly, machining doesn't require supports, so that may be the reason it doesn't figure them.

Modeling can be fun, but can also test one's patience.

 

[MikeDVB]

It's my guess, slicing is much different for printing. The slicer I use (built into the software) slices flat layers. The Z height of the layers, is determined by the number of layers input. Admittedly, machining doesn't require supports, so that may be the reason it doesn't figure them.

Modeling can be fun, but can also test one's patience.

It generates gcode that the printer then uses to run. Very similar to CNC.

The slicer adds the supports [or the user, within the slicer] and it's just included into the gcode.

 

[Lpherr]

It generates gcode that the printer then uses to run. Very similar to CNC.

The slicer adds the supports [or the user, within the slicer] and it's just included into the gcode.

If it adds the supports automatically, it's built into the software. So, the software is proprietary to printing vs machining.

The various software's I use, aren't intended for printing.

 

[MikeDVB]

If it adds the supports automatically, it's built into the software. So, the software is proprietary to printing vs machining.

The various software's I use, aren't intended for printing.

Yes, I understand what you are saying but I may have misinterpreted you prior.

While both softwares generate gcode - you are right that the software for milling/machining is not the same as that used to generate gcode for 3D printers.

I was just saying that they are similar in that they both generate gcode for a machine to follow and that the gcode generated looks very similar.

 

[Lpherr]

Yes, I understand what you are saying but I may have misinterpreted you prior.

While both softwares generate gcode - you are right that the software for milling/machining is not the same as that used to generate gcode for 3D printers.

I was just saying that they are similar in that they both generate gcode for a machine to follow and that the gcode generated looks very similar.

I just looked at some of the different software for printing.

If using a pre-made model, a printer only requires a slicer program, and it adds, or depending on the program, the individual adds the supports. Definitely proprietary to printing.

If modeling, it's all the same.

 

[MikeDVB]

I just looked at some of the different software for printing.

If using a pre-made model, a printer only requires a slicer program, and it adds, or depending on the program, the individual adds the supports. Definitely proprietary to printing.

If modeling, it's all the same.

Yeah - the modeling would be the same.

Slicers have come a long way since I started printing. It's a lot easier to just drop a model in and get a usable result now than it was 10 years ago.

 

[ghuns]

...I do agree that building your own models isn't easy - but it's fun!

Not if you do it 12 hours a day.

Some 3d printed, steel, injection mold parts I have the displeasure of working on...

 

[MikeDVB]

Not if you do it 12 hours a day.

Some 3d printed, steel, injection mold parts I have the displeasure of working on...

I started doing 3D Modeling for fun when I was ~10 years old. I'm going on 37 now so that was a long time ago... Back when the internet wasn't what it is today and software was expensive and clunky.

It's significantly easier today than it was then - but still a challenge for anyone without any experience.

I spend most of my time in Fusion360 these days when modeling stuff unless tolerances don't matter then there are other pieces of software I like to use that are a bit less fidgety.

 

[jkaetz]

So my buddy who has been 3D printing things for me is moving away. So I need to get a 3D printer.

Educate me on them. And software. Need a decent one that is not impossible to setup and keep operating. The one my buddy has is under $500. Would like to keep it that way.

Don’t recall which one he is using. Says there are better ones out there now.

The biggest items I am looking at right now are about 3” square. Others are about 1” by about 4” long.

Got to be simple to work. He will give me STL files. I will need to finish the other items we are working on.

What software do you recommend to design?

Thanks

I picked up a Creality CR-10 Smart Pro (They have terrible names for their printers) last May. Revamped hot end that can handle PLA, ABS, PETG, Nylon and others that require higher heat. Also has a heated bed with removable baseplate.

The only arguments I have had with it were user induced. I was trying to print with two different filaments and getting it to properly pause and restart after the change was a trick. I learned a lot about gcode doing it. Using it for more standard prints hasn't been an issue.

IMO the most critical part is getting the bed level and the Z offset correct. With a good Z offset I've never had a print lift even without using glue or other methods of assist. I try to get the level as best I can across the five points (corners and center), then let autolevel do its thing. After that I print a single .2mm layer square and adjust the Z offset during the print until the layer peels off in a thin sheet. It will likely start too far away which will cause the individual lines of filament to separate from each other after you remove it or not stick to the bed.

You'll also want to get familiar with the slicer and what its various settings do. You'll likely primarily be interested in the infill and support settings initially. Hot end temp, bed temp, and print speeds will likely be the next things you'll be interested in.