40 S&W 180gr Vs. 165gr

[TaunTaun]

I've been looking at buying some bulk ammo here for breaking in some family guns. Most of this is range time working on fundamentals as well as getting used to these particular weapons. But a lot of what I am seeing is either 165 gr, or even 180 gr.

I see that 180gr is sometimes loaded a bit on the weak side in order for maximum potential peak pressure to fall with prescribed standards, but that 165gr tends to have a higher velocity and energy transfer.

Can someone explain this to me? (I've been a parrot up to this point) I'd like to get a better idea of what I SHOULD be looking for to make an informed decision.

Thanks all!

 

[kludge]

For "breaking in" a gun anything will work, and in the real world there's probably not a lot of meaningful difference anyway.

I have a slight preference for the 165gr ammo in the .40, bucking my normal trend, I prefer 125 over 115 in 9mm, and 158 over 125 in .357, etc.

If you have non-adjustable sights try some of both and see what shoots closer to point of aim in your gun.

When reloading for the .40 I got used to shooting 165gr instead of 180gr because there's less lead and you pay less for bullets. I felt that 155gr was too light for the .40 and the 165's split the difference.

Right now I'm shooting lead (for cost reasons) and I like the 170gr LSWC from Missouri Bullet Co.

Modern defensive bullets perform very well compared to those of even 20 years ago (about when the .40 came into being) and if you stick to the top brands it's hard to find a bad one. Like I said, I think 155gr is too light for the .40, so obviously the 135gr stuff isn't getting my vote, even though you can get high velocity and energy numbers. Consistent bullet performance and adequate penetration are what you should really be looking at, there are lots of ammo tests out there that you can google.

 

[pftraining_in]

165 gr has been shown to cause excessive slide velocity in Glocks, which was a contributing factor in the Glock Gen III issues with lights and slide penning.

180 gr allowed some of the pistols with light issues to run properly, others required far more work.

You will see little difference in accuracy.

 

[Leo]

I have some similar opinions with kludge. If loading lead, heavy bullet at slower speed almost always is better accuracy wise than light/fast lead loads. I load 165 grain plated bullets and 180 grain lead cast bullets with good results. I generally load the 165 grain bullets to middle of the road pressures and get light recoil as well as great accuracy.

The original poster is looking at factory loaded ammo, so he might not find the same results. Some 165 gr ammo seems to be loaded really hot. I never chrono'ed the factory loads, but it seems to have a very noticeable harshness in recoil. For general target use, if you have a choice, choose the lower velocity brand. I don't have a Glock .40, but I have not had any issures with Beretta or Para Ordinance pistols with either bullet weight.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

I prefer 180 gr out of my Glock 23c. It is what I carry and practice with. I don't think I've ever shot 165 gr with it, but I've never had a reason to stray from what works well.

 

[Hazwhopper]

Ok, if you are looking for plinking rounds, try the www.the-armory.com
They sell the 40's buy the 500 and 1000 with steel cases. Dirty but will be able to get either 165 or 180's for the same price. So get 1 of each.
When I chronographed some personal protection stuff, Speer Gold Dot 165 grain and 155 grain, they were about 1085 to 1120 (7 yds) The Hydra shoks Federal Premium's were also stiff. About the same velocity. I am holding in my hand a box of Federal Premium EFMJ 135 gr and were highly recommended. The chrono was at 25 yds 1060. So what I was told was to shoot 5 shot groups at 7 yds and 12 yds and 25 yds. Take the best of the ammo (best grouping and least amount of recoil) and buy those, or at least 150 rounds. Then shoot them in 10 rd groups and check weapon for any malfunctions and fail to fires. If they passed that test and grouped well then that should be your carry ammo. But for plinking, I was always told to buy what I could afford and buy in bulk when possible. www.sportsmansguide.com has other brands. Some I looked at today for 40's were 80.00 for remanufactured rounds. (500) That isn't bad and for practice, more cleaning, and always attention to detail about anything that seems out of the ordinary.
I read a paper from 3 (quoted as best in business) they always seem to pick the lightest or closest to for every caliber. Like the 9mm they would pick the 90 gr barnes and or 115 Hydra Shok but they said "never ever chose the 147 grain" it was a known failure at the start. But for my S&W 9mm - me and my son can shoot it well.
They stated to stay way from the exotic rounds. But they seem to like the Silver tip ammo in most caliber's. They seem to rank in the first 7 or higher.
As for my daughter shooting my 40's, I use a light load, and I can reload and give her very low recoil, I am there to observe all shooting and she still likes the big 1911 45. But she won't carry it.
So she carries a 380. But it fits her and she isn't scared of the controlled explosion near her face everytime. Most flinch due to that very reason. Try something, when reloading your mag, put a empty case in the hand and load up the mag.
When you are pulling the trigger and you have gotten to the empty mag and you pull the trigger and nothing happens but you still jerk up on the weapon, you will see what I mean. So people use snap caps for that too. I am just too cheap to buy them.
Good luck.
Also one last thing, I was always told that you should never use lead bullets in reloading your Glock. The rifling will build up and cause bad things. I think that is true with most, but Glock puts that in their manual's. So I always reloaded with FMJ in 40's. Even if it is berry's bullets.

 

[VERT]

For what it is worth I prefer the 180 grain loads for range ammo. I think the "snappiness" is a little less. But both the 165 & 180 grain stuff shoots fine in all my guns.