Advantage to shooting 38s out of 357 other than cost?

[MtnBiker6510]

So, I picked up a 357 revolver recently and will be buying ammo for it. I have been curious about revolvers and after shooting one decided a .357 was what I wanted. My budget was tight and I couldn't find any used smiths or rugers in my price range. I ended up with a new EAA Windicator 357 4" in nickel. I usually buy in bulk and noticed quite a few places where I could get 357mag ammo for not much different than 38spl.

My question is this: If I were to shoot moderate to full power 357 mag exclusively, could I potentially damage the revolver?

 

[Disposable Heart]

Saves wear in inexpensive guns.
Faster split times (Read: more rounds on target in a defensive situation in a shorter amount of time)
Less muzzle blast

Realistically, unless I'm hunting or working around vehicles, I would carry a .357 loaded with .38s regardless.

EAAs are okay, but expect end shake and RAPIDLY accelerated wear with .357s.

 

[HoughMade]

If you're shooting full power loads exclusively, sure there are parts that will wear faster than if you shot .38 or lower power .357 loads, but how much? Unless you are shooting a whole lot...a WHOLE lot (I am assuming factory loaded), it will be a long time until things start to loosen up. In my opinion, shoot the loads you want to (if it's a carry gun, the same weight and velocity as you defense ammo), keep your eye on cylinder rotation, the gap clearance and lockup, and cross the tune up bridge when you get to it.

That being said, full-power loads would seem to get annoying if you are shooting a lot.

 

[kalboy]

Don't have any experience with the EAA Windicator but IIRC the 357s are all steel while the 38s are alloy ( zamac) framed so I'd say you did well spending the extra bucks to get a 357.
38s are cheaper and easier on shooter and gun, folks will warn of carbon ringing the cylinder charge holes but routine cleaning will lessen this and even if it should develop just chuck a cleaning rod section in a cordless drill, attach a bronze bore brush and clean the charge holes. Takes little time and effort.

 

[mssmith44]

I have no experience with the Windicator, but some 357 loads will burn out the forcing cone pretty quickly. 110 grains are a real burner. 158 loads not so much
If there is a thin area of the barrel forcing cone area like a k frame smith expect a crack shooting hot 357 110 and 125.
another advantage to the shorter 38 case is a quick reload. The cases clear the cylinder better.

 

[Work]

I think the reason most people would choose to carry a .38 instead of a .357 is because it's enough. They're both potent rounds, and with a .38 +p you're getting excellent stopping power with less disruption than a .357 mag. so why not? that being said, I have both and load whatever is closest by when I carry my revolver.

 

[SpaldingPM]

Thats a pretty looking wheel gun for the $. Are there aftermarket grips available for that model?

 

[throttletony]

it shouldn't damage the revolver, period. Remember, the revolver is MADE for 357, and by chance also CAN shoot 38s, not the other way around.
IF it loosens up excessively, or cracks, cash in whatever warranty they have!

The only time I leave mine loaded with 38+p's is for in home self-defense. A full 357 would be hella loud and bright.
Other than that, I enjoy shooting 357s more than 38s.
I keep about 300 rds of each (38 and 357) on hand and its an awesome caliber/platform to have the versatility.

P.S. looks like a nice buy. Go shoot it!

 

[Leo]

The .38 SPL has less than 17,000 PSI, the .357 Mag is about double that. There is no way, Smith and Wesson, EAA, Ruger, Colt, etc that doubling the pressure does not affect wear. Revolvers do wear out, , crack forcing cones, and cut the top strap. It happens faster on a steady diet of magnum rounds. A quality firearm lasts a long time. It will last longer with lower pressure rounds.

What round can you shoot well? A full load .38spl or .38spl +p will do most uses pretty well. It is a rare day that I would shoot 100 or 150 full throttle .357 mag rounds in practice.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

In the land of theories, sure, .357 will cause it to wear out faster. In the land of reality, 99.9999% of us will die of old age before putting close to enough rounds through it to matter.

There's always a gun out there that breaks, and especially some early S&W have the reputation of cracking a forcing cone if "too many" hot .357s are put through it. However there's plenty of folks with thousands upon thousands of full house rounds through their "fragile" early models with no problems.

Think of it like this. The gun is designed to run modern loads. If I bounce a baseball or a bowling ball off of a tank's hull, there's no real difference in how much damage I'm doing to the tank.

 

[MtnBiker6510]

Thanks folks, that gives me a lot to think about. I guess I will just treat it like the cheap revolver it is and shoot what I enjoy, knowing that wear and tear will happen just like any other firearm and the hotter the loads the faster it'll wear. I have already shot mild 357s and 38s out of other similar sized revolvers (Ruger DA 4" and Dan Wesson 2") and although the 38s had less recoil, I found them both enjoyable and didn't mind the stiffer 357s, but would definitely shoot the 38s more while at the range practicing.

It is going to be on my hip in bear country in Northern Idaho in a few months while on a fishing trip (loaded with Buffalo Bore 180gr HC) but otherwise it'll just be a range toy.

 

[GIJEW]

My .357 is a PD trade-in S&W 66 (K frame) and it does show it's age, with some cutting of the top strap etc but it's still fully functional and accurate. As for ammo, Since I reload, I use 158gr. bullets at +P.38 velocity so I can minimize wear on the gun and not have to scrub the end of the cylinder chambers. If was going to buy it, I'd lean toward .38 for practice with some .357 to stay familiar with the difference in recoil and POI. IMO the ballistic advantage of .357 vs +P.38 is less important than shot placement and shot-to-shot speed.

 

[357 Terms]

Judging from the looks of your revolvers crane (not a lot there compared to a Ruger or a Smith) I would expect it to loosen up quicker.

It may take a while but it will happen quicker than a better built 357 mag.