Ammo that won't case gauge

[schmart]

I've been reloading for many years, but have started using range pickup brass for 9mm. I'm seeing a sizeable amount that won't case gauge after the loading process. I'm tumble cleaning it, and then sizing with either a Dillon or a Lee sizing/depriming die, and then going through a typical load process, ending with a Lee Factory Crimp die. I'm looking at how to resolve the sizing issues I'm having. Is roll sizing before I run it into my press the only solution? What about running it through the newer Lee APP to make sure all the bulges are out before going into my progressive press?

I used to never worry about this. i'd just give the ones slightly out of spec to my kids to run through their wide chambered blasters and let them use them up. As they never picked up brass at their friends, I didn't have to worry about the out of spec brass ever coming back. However, given the primer drought, and apparent permanent price increases if you can fine any, I'd like to get my reject percentage down, and as they won't reliability feed through my competition firearms I can't just ignore the case gauge.

Looking for suggestions from those who have seen similar things.

Thanks
Rick

 

[2in1evtime]

Lee makes a undersized sizing-depriming die, it worked for me in 9mm, and 45 acp for 40 s&w it is either roll sized brass or the lee bulge buster

 

[jhopson]

I was running into the same type of problem, then I started using the Mighty Armory Sizing die. I cannot remember the last time that a loaded round did not pass my case gauge.

 

[MrMunster]

I was running into the same type of problem, then I started using the Mighty Armory Sizing die. I cannot remember the last time that a loaded round did not pass my case gauge.

Funny. I would say the same thing about the Lee FCD. Not sure why it isn't fixing the issue here.

The chamfering on the Dillon sizing allows for smoother operation on the press at the expense of resizing the lower portion of the case. The Lee die, among others, do not have the flared opening and should not be giving these results.

One thought is to just run the rounds back through the FCD to see if that fixes your issue.

 

[schmart]

I've been reviewing other sites and youtube trying to work out why. Several sites strongly suggested re-checking the die setup, and one suggested deprime/size and check in case before going further. So checking the dies, I found that the sizing dies (both Dillon and Lee and FCD) were backed out of the breech lock maybe 1/2 turn. Got those screwed down appropriately and ran about 120 cases through and all but 1 were OK. Not sure if everything had backed out, or if somehow I changed the stroke length when I went through the press and reset adjustments.

I have yet to load anything yet after that, but will report back in the next couple days.
--Rick

 

[Leo]

What caliber is giving problems?

What bullet?

I forget the brand of brass but I had problems once with a bunch of cheapo brass. I could properly resize the brass and it measured fine, When I would seat a 230 grain flat based bullet, it would swell in the middle. The brass started getting thicker right at the base of the bullet, and when seated, the brass would swell, just enough to make junk ammo. 200 grain bevel based bullets did not do that so I loaded the rest of them up with 200's and left the brass on the ground.

 

[Cameramonkey]

DEFINITELY check your sizing die spacing. I had them hanging up. It wasnt pretty. I'd have to fire the gun to empty it.

Turns out even with the full sizing die, I was still 1/4 turn short. That was allowing a gnats hair bit of case not being touched. And it was enough to let the gun lock up, but too tight to open by hand.

Also double check your OAL. It varies by bullet shape. A flat point/hollow point at the same 1.12 OAL (as an example) for round nose bullets is too long.

And if you want to try a bulge buster, its no longer advocated/sold by Lee for 9mm. (its hotly contested whether its needed/works since its a tapered case) If you want to go that path you need the 9mm Makarov die to pair it with.

 

[Cameramonkey]

Oh, and I found the safest way to reload IMHO is to use a dedicated depriming only tool. That way you can tell the difference between a good punch and an off-center punch that will kill your pin. When sizing AND depriming, you cant tell if you are off, or its just a really large case giving you the resistance. Using this technique I can stop as soon as I have to apply any real pressure to make sure I'm not going to bend anything. I havent bent a single pin since the change.


And I suspect it would carry over to the sizing pass as well. You can concentrate more on a full draw stroke than thinking about other aspects (like bending your pin)

 

[schmart]

I think I've been lured into a false sense of security. I had the entire press working flawlessly a decade ago, but over the years, things have worn/moved so they weren't perfect, and I just lived with the occasional hiccup. I'm using a Hornady progressive and the plate wasn't moving exactly into position, etc. That started causing decapping pin breaking because the case wasn't centered. Even with Dillon warranty, I bought a 10 pack of pins so I didn't have to wait, and about as many Lee pins. Finally last week, indexing got so bad, I couldn't even get 5 cases to index correctly before one ended up being cut by the powder drop belling die... Even though I detected it, it burned up a primer. That's when I started adjusting the entire press. Got the shell plate running right, but didn't think about the dies until I started case gaging the first several hundred rounds and found I was getting a 15% reject rate.

I'm hopeful that now that things are fully adjusted, I'll be better off!

I was thinking of the Lee APP and bulge buster, but recognized that is no longer recommended. Finally decided if I was going to do 2 processes, I could do them all on my existing press and use the dillon die to decap and size, the lee die w/ pin removed, and finally the FCD with crimp pulled out and go just as fast as the APP w/o having to invest in a new press and find somewhere to mount it.
--Rick

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Oh, and I found the safest way to reload IMHO is to use a dedicated depriming only tool.

That's what I do too. After breaking a few pins, especially when loading some surplus cases and occasionally getting a Berdan-primed case mixed in with the boxer-primed ones, I got the universal die. Also makes sizing a lot easier when not having to deprime at the same time.