AR upper lower question

[d30carls]

i am getting ready to start building my 1st AR I have been looking at upper and lowers for a couple months. My main question is what is the difference between these lowers to make such a price change I know I want forged not polymer and I don't want to cheap out completely but when i can get an Anderson Lower for 50-60 bucks and the rock river is 120ish and some of these others are 2-300ish for stripped lowers. Which one is better is it just like buying a Harley you just pay for a name (no offense Harley guys) but I just want a good target gun I am going with a .300 blk with stainless fluted heavy barrel probably 18-20 inch. i just want to put a gun together and not have to worry about it jamming up on me or having any troubles with it and I want to assemble the entire gun myself from top to bottom. What uppers and lowers would you guys recommend? would you recommend getting a matching stripped upper and lower from same manufacture?

 

[JollyMon]

In my opinion, a forged lower is a forged lower. You might get a little better finish on some, but all will work just fine. I have had a seekin, PSA, Spikes, YHM, CMMG, and a few others. They all went together just fine. As for uppers, I do like my BCM.

 

[NyleRN]

You'd shoot the rifle more often if you went 5.56 instead of 300blk. 5.56 is much cheaper and easier to find than 300blk. But you may be wealthy

 

[strokin7.3]

I went with a PSA blemished lower and it works just fine. Spent the extra coin for a Daniel defense upper but if I ever build another I'll be using a PSA blemished upper. As I don't really see the benefits of paying for a name when I can get the same thing for half the cost.

 

[wsenefeld]

You really are paying for the name. I have a couple Anderson, a PSA, Spike's, and a couple CMT billet. All of my forged lowers had an equal fit to all of my uppers and there was no difference in how the lpk went in. If you're worrying about your budget, get an Anderson or PSA. You can always upgrade down the road.

No need to get a matching upper. Once again, save yourself some money and get a stripped upper from PSA or Anderson.

Do you currently reload? Finding commercial 300blk can be done but it's not cheap. Like Nyle said, 5.56 would be a much better start and then you can convert your brass once the neck splits.

 

[JeremiahJohnson]

I've got three PSA blem lowers ($50 + $25 transfer fee at your FFL). No issues.

 

[d30carls]

I do reload so the 300blk ammo i really dont think will cost much or any more than 223 budget is not a big thing i am planning on spending about 1500-2k if need be more to get all the extras i want. Thanks for all the information guys I would have spent 2-300 on a lower if it was going to be better quality or i would see some other benefits but I want the best bang for my buck save money on a lower gives me more to spend on my accessories or maybe upgrades for my other AR-15 5.56 I want something that is going to get me putting 5 shots through the same hole currently my dpms holds a pretty good group but i really just want to show off lol and 300 blk is better from my understanding for suppressors if i decide to get one

 

[wsenefeld]

Yes a subsonic 300blk sounds stupid quiet through a suppressor and it doesn't lose much when fired from a <9" barrel.

For your DPMS alternative... A great return on investment is the Rainier Arms match line of barrels. They only cost $260 and will give you nickel sized groups from 100. You could spend an extra $100 with most other companies and not see any difference in your group size.
https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/browse&category=ar15/m16_barrels_rainierarms_matchseries

 

[echoagain]

Not to hijack this thread, but on a related note......what stripped lowers are available in the Indy area? My last build was on a Delton lower from Indy Trading Post (worked fine, and a good shop) but not sure what other brands might be available at shops locally. No problem with the Delton but I would like to do something a little different next time. I'd rather purchase locally than to do a transfer through a dealer that sells lowers themselves, just to try to save 10 or 15 dollars.

 

[jagee]

Not to hijack this thread, but on a related note......what stripped lowers are available in the Indy area? My last build was on a Delton lower from Indy Trading Post (worked fine, and a good shop) but not sure what other brands might be available at shops locally. No problem with the Delton but I would like to do something a little different next time. I'd rather purchase locally than to do a transfer through a dealer that sells lowers themselves, just to try to save 10 or 15 dollars.

I picked up an Anderson lower at Bradis last weekend at their customer appreciation sale. First AR for me so I'm looking forward to the learning experience of putting it all together.

 

[d30carls]

I will probably try to pick one up off someone just to keep the government out of my business not to sound crazy but the less they know the better the way things are going right now

 

[d30carls]

Now as far as free floating rails what do you guys recommend do you notice a difference in the accuracy of the rifle with different rails or do you just buy for the best looking rail

 

[NyleRN]

I have free floats on all but 1 of my AR's. Fortis Rev 12", Daniel Defense omega x 12fsp, and a centurion arms 10". My other ar has standard m4 handguards, that's because it was a bottom barrel budget build. I think I'm going to put the super slim utg rail on my budget ar. The centurion rails are scalloped and are nice on the hands

 

[d30carls]

I have free floats on all but 1 of my AR's. Fortis Rev 12", Daniel Defense omega x 12fsp, and a centurion arms 10". My other ar has standard m4 handguards, that's because it was a bottom barrel budget build. I think I'm going to put the super slim utg rail on my budget ar. The centurion rails are scalloped and are nice on the hands

Do you notice any accuracy differences with the hand guards i typically sit mine on a front bag or a bipod and shoot

 

[wsenefeld]

As long as the proper amount of torque is put on the barrel nut, different free float handguards shouldn't affect the accuracy of an optic mounted on the upper receiver. On the other hand, a lower quality handguard might affect your BUIS if there is any play. I have a Midwest Industries SS12G2, Troy Bravo 10, Fortis REV 12, and Fortis REV 9, all have stayed true and kept zero for my irons.

 

[d30carls]

As long as the proper amount of torque is put on the barrel nut, different free float handguards shouldn't affect the accuracy of an optic mounted on the upper receiver. On the other hand, a lower quality handguard might affect your BUIS if there is any play. I have a Midwest Industries SS12G2, Troy Bravo 10, Fortis REV 12, and Fortis REV 9, all have stayed true and kept zero for my irons.

Thank you that is kind of what I figured

 

[throttletony]

You'd shoot the rifle more often if you went 5.56 instead of 300blk. 5.56 is much cheaper and easier to find than 300blk. But you may be wealthy

or he might reload

edit to add: as he already pointed out
/facepalm
/readENTIREthreadbefore posting