Brass getting stuck. Need advice.

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  • jcwit

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    Please make a video and post yourself loading a 100 rounds using motor oil as lube...I'm interested.

    Have no idea how to make a video, but I have used just about everything as a case lube in my over 50 years of reloading. I have used motor oil as well as various specialized case lubes such as Unique by Hornady and Mink Oil. I usually clean the cases off with white gas which here in No. Indiana Amish country can be purchased at the pump.

    Is that fairly explanatory?

    If you need more advice please be specific as to your wants and questions.
     
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    jcwit

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    For one thing, used motor oil is full of known carcinogens. Automotive techs use latex gloves to keep it off their skin. At least the smart ones do...

    Number two. How do you get it off, and out of, your brass? Motor oil would quickly load up any walnut or corn cob media. Kind of like using kitty litter to soak up that oil spill on your garage floor. Yuck. Also, I imagine it running down the side of the reloader after a few dozen have been run through the sizing die.

    Number three. There are many effective and low cost "Case Lubes" formulated for this one function, on the market.

    OP, when use any spray lube, I spray the outside liberally and make sure to spray inside the case neck liberally as well. I use one shot and other spray lubes equally. Everytime I miss a spot or don't use enough, I get that creaking sound as a case comes out of the die. The batch of brass immediately gets another liberal spray until they come out smooth with no resistance.

    Been reloading for over 50 years and while I never tried used motor oil, I really not to worried about any getting on my hands. Been changing my own even longer with no ill effects yet.

    Yes I have tried many many specific case lubes, two of my favorites are Unique and Mink Oil. If I ever use up my Unique "which I doubt" I'll try Lanolin.
     

    sloughfoot

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    Been reloading for over 50 years and while I never tried used motor oil, I really not to worried about any getting on my hands. Been changing my own even longer with no ill effects yet.

    Yes I have tried many many specific case lubes, two of my favorites are Unique and Mink Oil. If I ever use up my Unique "which I doubt" I'll try Lanolin.

    I just re-read your other post. Do you use, used motor oil, or leftover new motor oil that did not go into the motor? At least with new motor oil, you don't have to worry about the carcinogens being absorbed into the skin.

    And yes, it is a fact about the carcinogens in used motor oil. Have you never tasted something funny on your tongue after getting some on your hands?

    I still wonder however, how you keep motor oil from running all over and accumulating in puddles on the floor after running down the side of the machine.

    I am curious why you don't just use those products specifically designed to be easy to use and effective as a case lube? I keep plenty of mink oil around for saddles and bridles and some of my boots. And if I had no other choice, I can see using it. But not while better stuff is easily available.
     

    SERparacord

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    eauuww. You are joking, right? You are not really touching that with your hands....

    I'm definitely not using my tongue! Fingertip is all that gets oily, you do not immerse the brass in oil. Takes very little oil to lube a case. New oil! Not used!
    If you fingertip drips you have to much oil on it. I suppose you could use a Q-tip and get the same results. I lube about 5 cases then do about 20 till I feel resistance start building up, then lube five more. You do not need to lube every case.
     
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    Broom_jm

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    This is the weirdest thread, ever. We're blessed with a variety of excellent products that are made specifically for resizing brass cases. Used properly, they are all effective, and some of them are basically fool-proof. Why on earth would anyone use something other than one of those fine products? You can use plastic garbage bags and duct tape to keep your feet dry, but why not just buy a cheap pair of rubber boots?

    :dunno:

    Look at pretty much ALL of the "stuck case" threads, and what is the common denominator? One-Shot. I'm not saying it's a bad product...OK, wait. Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. If it was a good product, there wouldn't be so many bad results with it.

    Spend just a few dollars on any of the "known good" case lube options. Then throw all of them away and buy 1 tin of Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Unless you load a LOT of cases, you'll never need a second can of it.
     

    cherrynutz

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    I've never used One Shot spray. Always used just the wax. I'm 100% positive I'm using the right tooling. Never had a problem before these cases. Started loading 223 last January and have loaded 3000+ rounds
     

    Leo

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    Imperial works great, Lee works fine. I like the ease of Dillon case lube. MidwayUSA sells the same stuff under the Frankfort Arsenal brand name. With brass in a bowl or other container, spray a few squirts and rub it around. Let the lubed brass set for 10 minutes so the solvent evaporates and the lanolin lube will stay where it needs to be. I NEVER have a case stick with this type of lube. Good luck
     
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    billybob44

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    I NEVER have a case stick.

    Imperial works great, Lee works fine. I like the ease of Dillon case lube. MidwayUSA sells the same stuff under the Frankfort Arsenal brand name. With brass in a bowl or other container, spray a few squirts and rub it around. Let the lubed brass set for 10 minutes so the solvent evaporates and the lanolin lube will stay where it needs to be. I NEVER have a case stick. Good luck

    Leo, if you have "NEVER" had a case stick, YOU are a LUCKY man!!

    I do not know if I have ever talked to a "Seasoned" reloader that has not had that PLEASURE!!

    You may be careful with statements like that.
    That is like saying that "I have NEVER had a ticket". HA HA..(look out!!)..Bill.

    PS: BTW, there also is a thin layer of rust on my stuck case remover tooling...
     

    Leo

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    To start, let me say I never stuck a case with the Dillon style case lube. I guess my fingers did not type what my mind was thinking. I'll fix it.

    I was lucky enough to have learned from a man who stuck LOTS of cases. I figured I would pay attention. I never got common M-1 broken thumbnail either. I learned from a man with a badly damaged thumb. I always figured learning from the past was a good thing.
     

    jcwit

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    I just re-read your other post. Do you use, used motor oil, or leftover new motor oil that did not go into the motor? At least with new motor oil, you don't have to worry about the carcinogens being absorbed into the skin.

    And yes, it is a fact about the carcinogens in used motor oil. Have you never tasted something funny on your tongue after getting some on your hands?

    I still wonder however, how you keep motor oil from running all over and accumulating in puddles on the floor after running down the side of the machine.

    I am curious why you don't just use those products specifically designed to be easy to use and effective as a case lube? I keep plenty of mink oil around for saddles and bridles and some of my boots. And if I had no other choice, I can see using it. But not while better stuff is easily available.

    Link for do it yourself products.

    Homemade Firearm Related Products


    I am curious why you don't just use those products specifically designed to be easy to use and effective as a case lube? I keep plenty of mink oil around for saddles and bridles and some of my boots. And if I had no other choice, I can see using it. But not while better stuff is easily available

    Maybe I already have the Mink Oil on hand, it works just fine and is mainly lanolin, what is it to anyone what I use and mayhap it helps someone else out their. Fact be known if you read the link I provided you will see liquid dish washing detergent works well also.
     

    jcwit

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    Do you use, used motor oil, or leftover new motor oil that did not go into the motor? At least with new motor oil, you don't have to worry about the carcinogens being absorbed into the skin.

    At my age the above is so far down on my list of things to worry about I would need to dig a hole to find it.
     

    jcwit

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    Back to the topic at hand, toss the spray lube and use Lanolin, Mink Oil, or one of the wax lubes provided by the reloading manufactures such as Unique, comes in a small tub and works just great and 1 tub will last for years under normal use. Whatever "normal" is.
     

    jurassicnarc

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    Imperial sizing wax.... apply a LITTLE using your fingertips, and wipe off any left after sizing with a piece of paper towel. A 5"x5" piece is enough to wipe the excess for about 50 pieces of brass. Cleaning brass prior to the sizing operation saves wear on dies and brass alike. Then, with Imperial, sizing is effortless. Ten years later I'm still using the same 2" x .5" container !
     

    jtmason15

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    Dillon case lube is great for that. It sounds like it just needs a thinner oil and not a thicker oil. Dillon's case lube has never given me any trouble. Unless your brass is somehow gotten lopsided or it has expanded. But I would give dillon a shot before anything else.
     
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