Building a woodshed and looking for some advice.

[CBR1000rr]

I'm building a woodshed and I'm starting the planning process with intentions to start construction next spring.

As of this moment, I'm planning on using sonotubes as a foundation for each individual post. I haven't decided wether I am going to space the posts 8' on center or 16' on center. If I go with 16' on center, should I add a concrete filled tube at 8' on center to support a 16' 4x4 ran between the posts? Once the tubes are filled with concrete, I'll place #73 gravel with crushed limestone 6" deep as a base to stack my wood.

My question is about the sonotubes. I know I can go out and buy the tubes but I have access to thick walled cardboard tubes at work. Could I just scavenge these tubes instead of buying the sonotubes or is there something special about the sonotubes?

If it matters, this will strictly be used to store my firewood. I may build a small loft area for additional storage for seasonal tools like rakes and such but nothing heavy. On one end, I will likely add a storage area for my tractor and lawnmower. If I do, this will be the only area that is walled completely and have doors.

I'm open to other suggestions as well.

Thanks

 

[Cameramonkey]

Will the concrete pillars be exposed above ground? If not, why even use tubes? just dig the hole drop in the post and fill the void with concrete.

The only thing I know the Sonotubes are designed to do is peel apart easily to remove, and are wax (?) lined so the concrete doesnt stick.

 

[CBR1000rr]

Will the concrete pillars be exposed above ground? If not, why even use tubes? just dig the hole drop in the post and fill the void with concrete.

Yes, I plan on the concrete pillars sitting roughly 6" above grade on the low side. The area I'm building the shed has a slight slope. Additionally, my land holds water like no ones business. The idea is that the pillars will keep the lumber off the ground and dry to avoid rot. I know it's a wood shed but I don't want to have to rebuild it. Ever.

As for the sonotubes, I figured there was something that separated them from a regular cardboard tube. Ideally, I could set the tubes, backfill around them and then fill with concrete but I don't want to risk the cardboard breaking down and allowing room for the concrete to shift.

I've also considered just filling the hole and building a form on top of the hole to raise it up. I would make the form smaller than the hole itself so it wouldn't heave when the ground started freezing. That's seems like a lot of work. Given that I'm doing all of this the work myself, I'd be willing a to spend a little extra money to save me a little bit of time.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

For my decks I dug postholes past the frostline, and just put a short segment of tube at the top to make a nice little pad. I filled the whole thing and set the posts on top. If you want, you can get anchors to make it stay put, but I have my decks tied to the house. This allows things to shift around a little with temperature, without stressing the structure. I have one pushing 15 years old with no issues.

 

[devious169]

I'd skip the route of using the cardboard tube you can get at work and go with sonotubes. They are designed to withstand the hydraulic pressure of the concrete, also they impregnated with wax to keep the water in the concrete from soaking into the cardboard. If the water leeches out into the tube when you remove it it will pop the face of the concrete.

 

[IndyGunworks]

Skip the sonotubes altogether.... if you are concerned about water fill the holes up with gravel instead of backfilling, that will allow drainage. pressure treated posts for ground contact will last longer than you. go 8 foot on center with your posts, and 4 foot on center with ceiling joists so you can lay purlins on their side instead of on edge.

 

[chocktaw2]

A lot of folk up here, NE Central are buying car ports. And then building in the ends, one solid, other with man door, plus a slider to back the truck into.

 

[CBR1000rr]

Skip the sonotubes altogether.... if you are concerned about water fill the holes up with gravel instead of backfilling, that will allow drainage. pressure treated posts for ground contact will last longer than you. go 8 foot on center with your posts, and 4 foot on center with ceiling joists so you can lay purlins on their side instead of on edge.

This is actually how I set my fence posts. I had considered doing the same for the wood shed but was concerned with the wind in the soft soil. With the center being almost 12' high and the posts only being 3' deep, I am concerned that it would shift too much over the years.

 

[SEIndSAM]

Can I borrow it sometime??? I keep threatening to take the kids to the wood shed, but I don't have one.....

 

[rhinoabe]

My wood shed was not in the best shape so I tore it down , it cut my taxes by $70.00. I just use pieces of metal roofing and lay it across the top now.

 

[IndyGunworks]

This is actually how I set my fence posts. I had considered doing the same for the wood shed but was concerned with the wind in the soft soil. With the center being almost 12' high and the posts only being 3' deep, I am concerned that it would shift too much over the years.

Not if you use the right kind of gravel... number 53's with fines and it will lock together just as well as concrete.