Buying .22 for the range

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  • doddg

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    I saw that Dicks was having a sale on Federal AutoMatch and they were recommended so I got some after work today: 325 rounds for $22 = .067 cents per round
    It is supposed to be good for semi-automatics, but it was not copper plated (or perhaps I mean brass) but lead, which is confusing to me b/c I thought lead was dirtier.

    While I was there I saw some Remington Golden Bullet Pack, brass plated hollow points: 525 rounds for $35 = .066 per rounsawI thought Remingtion was on my recommended list but when I got home I was that it wasn't but also not on my "avoid" list.
    Are they going to be clean firing, or should I take them back, or keep them for when I get my revolver?
    I only want to put clean-firing in my Victory semi-auto.

    I was also going to buy some Winchester which were recommended: 1000 rounds for $60, but in a few days they go on sale for $50, so i thought I'd wait.
    Are these clean-firing or should I pass on them?
     
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    oldpink

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    I saw that Dicks was having a sale on Federal AutoMatch and they were recommended so I got some after work today: 325 rounds for $22 = .067 cents per round
    It is supposed to be good for semi-automatics, but it was not copper plated (or perhaps I mean brass) but lead, which is confusing to me b/c I thought lead was dirtier.

    While I was there I saw some Remington Golden Bullet Pack, brass plated hollow points: 525 rounds for $35 = .066 per round.
    I thought Remingtion was on my recommended list but when I got home I was that it wasn't, and also not on my "avoid" list.
    Are they going to be clean firing, or should I take them back, or keep them for when I get my revolver?
    I only want to put clean-firing in my Victory semi-auto.

    I was also going to buy some Winchester which were recommended: 1000 rounds for $60, but in a few days they go on sale for $50, so i thought I'd wait.
    Are these clean-firing or should I pass on them?

    While it is lead, they coat it with a wax compound to limit fouling.
    CCI Standard Velocity is likewise unplated, and I regularly launch well over 100 in one session through my 39A and the fouling is very minor.
    The Remington Golden Bullet often gets knocked, but I've had pretty good luck with it, and it is a bit dirty, but that's easily taken care with a few swipes of the bore brush and solvent-soaked patches.
    Dunno which version of Winchester ammo you're referring to, but the now discontinued Winchester Wildcat was the main ammo that I fed my 39A for decades, and it burned nice and clean.
     

    wtburnette

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    I saw that Dicks was having a sale on Federal AutoMatch and they were recommended so I got some after work today: 325 rounds for $22 = .067 cents per round
    It is supposed to be good for semi-automatics, but it was not copper plated (or perhaps I mean brass) but lead, which is confusing to me b/c I thought lead was dirtier.

    While I was there I saw some Remington Golden Bullet Pack, brass plated hollow points: 525 rounds for $35 = .066 per round.
    I thought Remingtion was on my recommended list but when I got home I was that it wasn't, and also not on my "avoid" list.
    Are they going to be clean firing, or should I take them back, or keep them for when I get my revolver?
    I only want to put clean-firing in my Victory semi-auto.

    I was also going to buy some Winchester which were recommended: 1000 rounds for $60, but in a few days they go on sale for $50, so i thought I'd wait.
    Are these clean-firing or should I pass on them?

    I try to stick with the Federal Automatch or the Browning BPR for my Victory. The Remington Golden Bullets will work fine, but are dirtier and tend to have flaming hot crap spew out of the chamber and land on your hands, where I don't get that with the other brands I use. The last 525 pack of Remington I have is going to be used in my 10/22 instead.... ;)
     

    doddg

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    Do you recommend me taking back the Remington b/c it doesn't sound like something I want to put through my new Victory?
    I tried to buy some CCI found on the site but it was gone already.
    Since it was basically the same price as the Federal AutoMatch, sounds like I should get more of it, even if I get a revolver, it would be cleaner to burn.
     

    Hop

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    I don't think you can take back ammo can you???

    The Federal AM22 is not accurate in ANY of my .22 pistols or rifles. So bad that I sold off multiple boxes of the stuff.
     

    doddg

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    Ruger 22/45 or a Single 6?

    1. Are you are asking if I'm looking for a 22/45 or a Single 6?
    2. A revolver, now that I have the Victory.
    3. I really wanted a revolver, but I couldn't pass it up.
    4. The last time I owned a bunch of .22 revolvers was late 70s and early 80s.
    5. I enjoy the hunt and even though I want a SS, I could end up with a few "plinkers6" if the prices are right.
    6. If they are going to be expensive, then I might as well just get 1 good one rather than a few average ones.
     

    doddg

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    I don't think you can take back ammo can you???

    The Federal AM22 is not accurate in ANY of my .22 pistols or rifles. So bad that I sold off multiple boxes of the stuff.

    1. Oh my! If not, lesson learned, and I'll save it for an inexpensive revolver.
     

    doddg

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    I don't think you can take back ammo can you???

    The Federal AM22 is not accurate in ANY of my .22 pistols or rifles. So bad that I sold off multiple boxes of the stuff.

    1. Sounds like there is not a consensus on this ammo, again, my mistake.
    2. Sounds like I'm going to have to stick with a more universally agreed CCI for a clean firing round and stop trying to find that 6-7 cent round.
     

    wtburnette

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    1. Sounds like there is not a consensus on this ammo, again, my mistake.
    2. Sounds like I'm going to have to stick with a more universally agreed CCI for a clean firing round and stop trying to find that 6-7 cent round.

    No, don't take back the Remington. It functions in the gun. At least it did in mine. The other types of ammo I mentioned run cleaner. About Federal AM22, it seems nicely accurate in my Victory. Not sure what pistol Hop is shooting it out of, but both my Ruger 10/22 and my Victory are reasonably accurate with it. That said, I'm shooting 7 - 10 yards with it, not out at 25 yards or more. At the distance I shoot, I can get all 10 rounds from a mag in a 2" sticker on my target, which is fine with me. Have never shot it past 10 yards though, so if you're going to be shooting longer distances with the gun, you might want better grade ammo. My advice is to test Federal AM22, test the Remington, test some Browning BPR and see how it does for you. If it's necessary, buy the CCI mini-mags or the higher end stuff, I just haven't personally found that to be necessary.
     

    doddg

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    No, don't take back the Remington. It functions in the gun. At least it did in mine. The other types of ammo I mentioned run cleaner. About Federal AM22, it seems nicely accurate in my Victory. Not sure what pistol Hop is shooting it out of, but both my Ruger 10/22 and my Victory are reasonably accurate with it. That said, I'm shooting 7 - 10 yards with it, not out at 25 yards or more. At the distance I shoot, I can get all 10 rounds from a mag in a 2" sticker on my target, which is fine with me. Have never shot it past 10 yards though, so if you're going to be shooting longer distances with the gun, you might want better grade ammo. My advice is to test Federal AM22, test the Remington, test some Browning BPR and see how it does for you. If it's necessary, buy the CCI mini-mags or the higher end stuff, I just haven't personally found that to be necessary.

    1. I'm not concerned with a high level of accuracy, but, just how dirty or clean the round fires.
    2. I'm not a big gun cleaner, and I don't want to be taking apart my Victory b/c it gets gummed up, rather pay more for the ammo.
    3. If the Remington is dirty, i don't want it except maybe for a revolver, but if the Federal AM is firing cleaner: same price, so I'll just get it.
    4. I was told you can't return shells, so I'm going to call Dicks to find out: I should have asked. Lesson learned again.
     

    Hohn

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    There are two keys to keeping a Victory relatively clean:
    1) Run it "dry"
    2) Use SV or subsonic ammo.

    By "dry", I mean grease the sliding bolt, then try to wipe it all off with a plain dry cloth. More lube is not more lubrication! (scientific testing actually shows less lube has lower friction, but I digress).

    Likewise, for all the other surfaces that aren't moving or requiring lube, keep them clean and as dry as possible (no grease or oil). My preference is Dupont Teflon dry lube. Shake it up, wipe it on, and enjoy a dry, nonstick surface. I use this for all the inner parts of the receiver that aren't sliding friction surfaces. (places where grime tends to accumulate.

    Last time out, I ran a hundred rounds or so of Browning bulk pack and the Victory could barely be said to have been fired.

    With decent ammo of mild velocity, and the minimum of lubrication, the Victory runs nice and clean and can more than handle a long day of shooting without needing to be cleaned.
     

    doddg

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    No, don't take back the Remington. It functions in the gun. At least it did in mine. The other types of ammo I mentioned run cleaner. About Federal AM22, it seems nicely accurate in my Victory. Not sure what pistol Hop is shooting it out of, but both my Ruger 10/22 and my Victory are reasonably accurate with it. That said, I'm shooting 7 - 10 yards with it, not out at 25 yards or more. At the distance I shoot, I can get all 10 rounds from a mag in a 2" sticker on my target, which is fine with me. Have never shot it past 10 yards though, so if you're going to be shooting longer distances with the gun, you might want better grade ammo. My advice is to test Federal AM22, test the Remington, test some Browning BPR and see how it does for you. If it's necessary, buy the CCI mini-mags or the higher end stuff, I just haven't personally found that to be necessary.

    1. I'm not concerned with a high level of accuracy, but, just how dirty or clean the round fires.
    2. I'm not a big gun cleaner, and I don't want to be taking apart my Victory b/c it gets gummed up, rather pay more for the ammo.
    3. If the Remington is dirty, i don't want it except maybe for a revolver, but if the Federal AM is firing cleaner: same price, so I'll just get it.
    4. I was told you can't return shells, so I'm going to call Dicks to find out: I should have asked. Lesson learned again.
     

    Hop

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    Just for reference...

    I was shooting the AM22 out of my Ruger 22/45 Lite both with and without the suppressor. 3" groups at 7 yards is not good IMO. Keyholes when shooting suppressed are no good at any distance.

    One of my Ruger 10/22 (now has a Kidd barrel and bolt) can shoot MOA or better with about 4-5 brands of ammo that I have tried. The AM22 was >4 MOA with the Ruger barrel & >3 MOA with the Kidd so I stopped including it in my testing.
     

    wtburnette

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    Just for reference...

    I was shooting the AM22 out of my Ruger 22/45 Lite both with and without the suppressor. 3" groups at 7 yards is not good IMO. Keyholes when shooting suppressed are no good at any distance.

    One of my Ruger 10/22 (now has a Kidd barrel and bolt) can shoot MOA or better with about 4-5 brands of ammo that I have tried. The AM22 was >4 MOA with the Ruger barrel & >3 MOA with the Kidd so I stopped including it in my testing.

    Different needs is what I'm reading. Getting the rounds into a 2 - 3" sticker at 10 yards for me is good, so I'll stick with the inexpensive rounds... ;)
     

    doddg

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    Different needs is what I'm reading. Getting the rounds into a 2 - 3" sticker at 10 yards for me is good, so I'll stick with the inexpensive rounds... ;)

    1. I guess what I'm after is an inexpensive round that isn't dirty: not going to happen, I suppose.
     

    doddg

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    Back to the original posting: .22 revolver (got sidetracked with ammo)
    At the gun show I had a chance to buy 3 different used .22s.
    One was a break down (H/R??) like what I used to have 30 yrs. ago, but it was light and I have fallen in love with the big frame S/W, Ruger or Taurus.
    I found an old Taurus Camanche, but it was a worn nickel finish (I want SS), and I passed even when he came down from $325 to $275 (there was another exactly the same that was marked $385, not quite as worn).
    If it would have been SS I might have pulled the trigger (pun intended) :laugh:
    I really thought about it, looked around to beat the deal, but there were only about 3 used .22s that weren't top tier higher priced revolvers.
    After fondling the S/W GP 100 and the like Ruger and Taurus, I decided I would have to sell the Taurus if I bought it to get what I really want: newer and prettier.
    My idea of what a used .22 should cost is decades over due, but when I can buy like new .38 Charter Arms (in box from store that sold it originally to a woman for $260), .357 Taurus ($275 with box, holster, speeder, and shells) and a S/W Victory (bought months ago with box, $300) like I have done in the past month, I just can't bring myself to pay the samish for a worn .22 (just pay for new if I can't find used, but I can play with my Victory until one appears, or not.
    Used to be a used .22 were a dime a dozen, but now seem rare, strangely enough to this old man who has been out of it since about 1990 (I've been saying 1980, but was off a decade :wallbash:).
    None of the guns I've bought were a sensational deal, just normal, so I have adjusted my expectations, but just can't bring myself to spend $700+ on the 617 S/W, or others I had in my mind.

    Roughly speaking and all SS:
    S/W 617 = $690
    Ruger GP100 = $630
    Taurus 992 = $500
    All the above prices are from Hoosier Armory in Carmel, which serve as my benchmark.
    I'd rather by from a local shop than internet just to save $20; $100, another matter. :laugh:
    Charter Arms Pathfinder= $350 (only 4.2 inch, though, others 5.5 or 6 inch)
    Rossi R98 = $270 (non SS, though)
    If I knew which one of those Heritage Arms or Chiappa single action revolvers to get, I'd be tempted just b/c of price.
    They were for sale from $129 - $250 at the show, so I don't know which one to get anyway.
    And, I'm thinking I don't need a dozen different .22s for fun like I use to have and I should just spend all my money on one, and justify doing so by getting a used version of the "expensive" ones.

    I need to think of resale, not what I pay, b/c I won't be going to the range much, since my best friend moved away in the late 90s, and I lost interest in all this anyway.
    That's why I'd rather buy used and let then take the first big hit, but I see I'm only saving about $50 buying used instead of new, not 1/2 price like the way it should be (in my mind :dunno:).
    I don't know whether to do a WTB or what?
    I assume that, like on my car site, prices are top tier on this gun site where you have a captive interested market.
    I haven't checked out 3 gun stores yet, 2 in Fortville, and especially one that looks interesting and I might go this am.
    Might get lucky on a used .22 :rockwoot:
     

    oldpink

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    Back to the original posting: .22 revolver (got sidetracked with ammo)
    At the gun show I had a chance to buy 3 different used .22s.
    One was a break down (H/R??) like what I used to have 30 yrs. ago, but it was light and I have fallen in love with the big frame S/W, Ruger or Taurus.
    I found an old Taurus Camanche, but it was a worn nickel finish (I want SS), and I passed even when he came down from $325 to $275 (there was another exactly the same that was marked $385, not quite as worn).
    If it would have been SS I might have pulled the trigger (pun intended) :laugh:
    I really thought about it, looked around to beat the deal, but there were only about 3 used .22s that weren't top tier higher priced revolvers.
    After fondling the S/W GP 100 and the like Ruger and Taurus, I decided I would have to sell the Taurus if I bought it to get what I really want: newer and prettier.
    My idea of what a used .22 should cost is decades over due, but when I can buy like new .38 Charter Arms (in box from store that sold it originally to a woman for $260), .357 Taurus ($275 with box, holster, speeder, and shells) and a S/W Victory (bought months ago with box, $300) like I have done in the past month, I just can't bring myself to pay the samish for a worn .22 (just pay for new if I can't find used, but I can play with my Victory until one appears, or not.
    Used to be a used .22 were a dime a dozen, but now seem rare, strangely enough to this old man who has been out of it since about 1990 (I've been saying 1980, but was off a decade :wallbash:).
    None of the guns I've bought were a sensational deal, just normal, so I have adjusted my expectations, but just can't bring myself to spend $700+ on the 617 S/W, or others I had in my mind.

    Roughly speaking and all SS:
    S/W 617 = $690
    Ruger GP100 = $630
    Taurus 992 = $500
    All the above prices are from Hoosier Armory in Carmel, which serve as my benchmark.
    I'd rather by from a local shop than internet just to save $20; $100, another matter. :laugh:
    Charter Arms Pathfinder= $350 (only 4.2 inch, though, others 5.5 or 6 inch)
    Rossi R98 = $270 (non SS, though)
    If I knew which one of those Heritage Arms or Chiappa single action revolvers to get, I'd be tempted just b/c of price.
    They were for sale from $129 - $250 at the show, so I don't know which one to get anyway.
    And, I'm thinking I don't need a dozen different .22s for fun like I use to have and I should just spend all my money on one, and justify doing so by getting a used version of the "expensive" ones.

    I need to think of resale, not what I pay, b/c I won't be going to the range much, since my best friend moved away in the late 90s, and I lost interest in all this anyway.
    That's why I'd rather buy used and let then take the first big hit, but I see I'm only saving about $50 buying used instead of new, not 1/2 price like the way it should be (in my mind :dunno:).
    I don't know whether to do a WTB or what?
    I assume that, like on my car site, prices are top tier on this gun site where you have a captive interested market.
    I haven't checked out 3 gun stores yet, 2 in Fortville, and especially one that looks interesting and I might go this am.
    Might get lucky on a used .22 :rockwoot:

    Good luck finding the .22 revolver of your choice.
    I still suspect that you could get what you want with a Ruger Single Six (old model) or Single Ten (the new models hold ten rounds now) for a decent price.
    Even the much despised Cheaper Than Dirt has brand new stainless adjustable sight versions with 5.5" barrels of this much respected revolver for $538, so it shouldn't be impossible to find a more reasonable gun shop willing to sell for at least $50-$100 less than that for identical ones, and probably another $100 less for used ones in very good to excellent condition.
    The 617 is a fine revolver, but that's a lot of coin for a .22 IMO.
     

    doddg

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    Good luck finding the .22 revolver of your choice.
    I still suspect that you could get what you want with a Ruger Single Six (old model) or Single Ten (the new models hold ten rounds now) for a decent price.
    Even the much despised Cheaper Than Dirt has brand new stainless adjustable sight versions with 5.5" barrels of this much respected revolver for $538, so it shouldn't be impossible to find a more reasonable gun shop willing to sell for at least $50-$100 less than that for identical ones, and probably another $100 less for used ones in very good to excellent condition.
    The 617 is a fine revolver, but that's a lot of coin for a .22 IMO.

    1. I'm hearing you and paying attention.
    2. I like the heavy, entire chamber come out, and all the spent shells come out at one push type, but am open if I need to be.
    3. I looked up on Hoosier Armory and found:
    Ruger Single 10 for $518 new.
    4. I would just buy the Taurus for $500 I think.
    5. Thanks for the feedback!
     
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