Dillon Service for 650

[BE Mike]

The other day, I figured out some parts I needed for my Dillon XL 650. I bought the press used and have used it a lot in the many years I've owned it. I went to Dillon's website and used their message system. I described the parts with part numbers I needed and even during these times of reloading/ ammo extreme demands, they sent the parts out the next day and of course free of charge. Just another no BS warranty experience for me. BTW, the old 650 is working better than new (a few aftermarket parts help).

 

[bgcatty]

That’s Dillon for you! A few other manufacturers should read this and learn a lesson on customer loyalty!

 

[turnerdye1]

What aftermarket parts are you running? I've been thinking about the roller bearing that rotates the shell plate.

 

[BE Mike]

What aftermarket parts are you running? I've been thinking about the roller bearing that rotates the shell plate.

I’m using that and the rod with the roller bearing. It operates the case feeder. I’m also using a light that mounts in the hole in the middle of the tool head. I have a live primer catcher and a spent primer catcher

 

[turnerdye1]

Nice. I've been thinking about grading those as well. I have the light that goes up the body and makes a U shape around the die block and it works pretty well.

 

[Bang-bang]

FYI: You can save a few dollars by ordering the same shellplate Bearing kit on Ebay instead of amazon.

​

 

[BE Mike]

My bearing that turns the shell plate came out of adjustment a while back and I really torqued it down after re-adjusting it. If it doesn't hold, I might try some extreme duty double-sided sticky tape.

 

[JeepHammer]

I like my 650s and I have no argument with Dillon over service.

Reducing friction is almost always a good thing, roller tipped rod is a really good start.
A roller under the shell plate for the indexer (plastic) is a good idea, that plastic indexer is a problem from time to time, cracks with age/use.
Reducing the friction/side loading makes it last longer.

One of the upgrades I can recommend is a primer 'cam' lockout (front of the frame, kicks the primer feeder when the ram goes up).
Being able to lock out the primer feed when processing saves a lot of rejected primers hitting the tray.

A primer catch bottle is worth it's weight in gold if you process/load more than the factory tray can hold.
My tube falls into a trash can I keep scrap brass in, but I also have a big peanut butter jar to catch dead primers in.

It's going to start a big argument, but stay away from primer pocket swager add-ons.
They are remarkably hard on the shell plate head (top of the ram),
And there isn't anywhere near enough support from that cast aluminum shell plate head to do swaging properly.

I made a stop for the shell plate housing to support shell plate, keeps it from flexing as much when pressure is on sizing or seating bullets.
Better control/repeatability in sizing & seating.
No big deal here, simply a block that clears the shell plate by about 0.002" and is epoxied down.

 

[BE Mike]

This primer feed stop switch does look interesting. The only thing I'm concerned about is that it is just another screw that can loosen and cause problems. https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1703

 

[JeepHammer]

This primer feed stop switch does look interesting. The only thing I'm concerned about is that it is just another screw that can loosen and cause problems. https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1703

That's entirely up to you.

Dillon uses reasonable fasteners, and does have holes machined reasonably well, and with a dab of low strength thread locker it shouldn't ever come out without a tool & your hand doing it.

It's a machinist/machine builder thing,
But when screws/bolts have to go in/out of aluminum very much, we install steel inserts into the threads.
The second option is a very high quality stud left in the aluminum, and a nut to hold the accessory in place.
No galling/stripping threads out of the aluminum that way.

To make any money at all, Dillon has to compromise between efficiency/quality.
I have all the time in the world to do upgrades once my base machine arrives.
As described above, friction points are reduced or eliminated entirely with lube or roller bearings, aluminum threads are lined with steel inserts or get studs/nuts, advanced reloaders like having the option of switching off the primer feed and not wearing that assembly when just doing case processing,
It's entirely up to you and your specific application, just giving you some ideas...

 

[BE Mike]

That's entirely up to you.

Dillon uses reasonable fasteners, and does have holes machined reasonably well, and with a dab of low strength thread locker it shouldn't ever come out without a tool & your hand doing it.

It's a machinist/machine builder thing,
But when screws/bolts have to go in/out of aluminum very much, we install steel inserts into the threads.
The second option is a very high quality stud left in the aluminum, and a nut to hold the accessory in place.
No galling/stripping threads out of the aluminum that way.

To make any money at all, Dillon has to compromise between efficiency/quality.
I have all the time in the world to do upgrades once my base machine arrives.
As described above, friction points are reduced or eliminated entirely with lube or roller bearings, aluminum threads are lined with steel inserts or get studs/nuts, advanced reloaders like having the option of switching off the primer feed and not wearing that assembly when just doing case processing,
It's entirely up to you and your specific application, just giving you some ideas...

I agree that a primer cut off is a good idea. I don't know if I'm an "advanced" reloader, though. Dillons are great machines. Things can and do get out of adjustment once in a while and that can be frustrating. I was just wondering if the primer cut off would be one of those things subject to getting out of adjustment.

 

[JeepHammer]

I agree that a primer cut off is a good idea. I don't know if I'm an "advanced" reloader, though. Dillons are great machines. Things can and do get out of adjustment once in a while and that can be frustrating. I was just wondering if the primer cut off would be one of those things subject to getting out of adjustment.

Not mine, it's either 'On' or 'Off'.
I got the version with a ball detent that holds itself in place.

 

[BE Mike]

Not mine, it's either 'On' or 'Off'.
I got the version with a ball detent that holds itself in place.

Who manufactures and sells this model?

 

[JeepHammer]

Who manufactures and sells this model?

Guy on Ebay that calls himself 'Snowshooz' or something like that.
My second choice was a 3D printed unit with a hinge instead of ball bearing detent and I can't remember what he called himself.