Filling Roll marks with JBweld?

[dkc485]

I've been thinking about having my RIA 1911 refinished in either cerakote or moly resin, and one of the things I thought about was how i didn't like the roll marks on the slide, or the marks on the dust cover, so i was thinking of filling them in with JBweld or something to that nature before the gun refinished.

I don't think adhesion for the finish will be a problem. I've heard that blueing and parkerizing can discolor around welds due to differnent metal content, but nothing on cerakote or molyresin(probably due to it being more like paint then a metal coloring). Has anybody tried this or heard of someone doing it? Will JBweld hold up to sandblasting?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[CountryBoy19]

I'm sure there are better epoxies out there than JB weld. But I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you do proper surface prep.

 

[dice dealer]

good question

 

[IndyGunworks]

devcon steel eposy it what i would use as it is machinable once its cured.... i have never tried this so i dont know how the reults would turn out, but like others have said, i see no reason why it would not work.

 

[CountryBoy19]

devcon steel eposy it what i would use as it is machinable once its cured....

That is the one I was thinking of but I couldn't place its exact name so I didn't mention any specifics.

Just to add to what he said, this stuff contains a high percentage of actual steel in the putty, and it is what a lot of people use to bed stocks on precision/match rifles.

 

[WabashMX5]

A company called Alvin Products makes some stuff called Lab Metal, which is also machinable when hardened. My only experience with it was to fill curb rash on a set of wheels I was refinishing on the cheap, but I was generally impressed by it.

Any gunsmiths familiar with the stuff, and its pluses or minuses in that context?

 

[Big John]

When I sporterized my Nagant I removed all the site bases, the rear one is pinned in place so I was left with 2 holes in the upper part of the barrel. I filled them with JB Weld waited a couple days then filed and sanded everything smooth, it worked really well under Krylon if I ever get up the courage I am going to try Dura-coat on it.

 

[IndyGunworks]

That is the one I was thinking of but I couldn't place its exact name so I didn't mention any specifics.

Just to add to what he said, this stuff contains a high percentage of actual steel in the putty, and it is what a lot of people use to bed stocks on precision/match rifles.

i did forget to add that.... devcon will actually holtd itself up under a magnet there is so much steel in it.
and it is what i use to bed rifle actions into stocks.

When I sporterized my Nagant I removed all the site bases, the rear one is pinned in place so I was left with 2 holes in the upper part of the barrel. I filled them with JB Weld waited a couple days then filed and sanded everything smooth, it worked really well under Krylon if I ever get up the courage I am going to try Dura-coat on it.

not a matter of courage at all man, if you already took the leap and kryloned it, you are past the hard part, now you are just experimenting with differant finishes/colors.... worst case, if you mess it up you can just respray paint (krylon) back over top

 

[dkc485]

thanks guys, i knew there was better stuff out there, I just couldn't remember the names of them. now as for surface prep, the best I know of is using a sandblasted surface that's been degreased. the texture of the metal after blasting holds paint pretty darn well, so whatever stuff i use should adhere pretty well. I'll have to do some research on the stuff you guys have told me and see what'll be the best choice. thanks again guys

 

[NateIU10]

I seem to remember part of the IC that may forbid this.

ETA:

IC 35-47-2-18
Obliterating identification marks on handgun or possession of such handguns prohibited
Sec. 18. No person shall:
(1) change, alter, remove, or obliterate the name of the maker, model, manufacturer's serial number, or other mark of identification on any handgun; or
(2) possess any handgun on which the name of the maker, model, manufacturer's serial number, or other mark of identification has been changed, altered, removed, or obliterated;
except as provided by applicable United States statute.

Would this apply here?

 

[dkc485]

well that changes things. though what would be the difference if i were to just change the slide to an unmarked one? I'll have to call ISP about it I guess.

 

[shooter521]

Would this apply here?

IMO, not to the slide markings, since the slide is not the "firearm" per ATF, and should not contain any ID markings that aren't duplicated on the frame. As a previous poster noted, there's no practical difference here between covering the markings, and replacing the slide with an unmarked one.

That said, I wouldn't muck with any of the identifying info (maker/importer/model/caliber/SN) on the frame. Disclaimers/warnings/legalese (WILL FIRE WITH MAGAZINE REMOVED, etc), however, are fair game for obliteration.

My

 

[Bonehead]

If you know someone witha beltsander you can just use it on the slide till its smooth.......................

Here is a friend of mines Kimber Eclipse 10mm........ after the belt sander and bead blasting........

and if you look on the right that was it before.....

 

[Walt_Jabsco]

Why would you buy an eclipse, which is primarily known for it's fancy finish, and then just remove the finish? I'm sorry, that's just stupid. You've paid an extra $300 for that finish. If you didn't want it, you should've bought a stainless Kimber.

 

[Big John]

Why would you buy an eclipse, which is primarily known for it's fancy finish, and then just remove the finish? I'm sorry, that's just stupid. You've paid an extra $300 for that finish. If you didn't want it, you should've bought a stainless Kimber.

I am sure the OP is grateful for your opinion, but he didn't ask if you thought it was a good idea or your opinion on his mental abilities. He asked about a two part epoxy used to fill roll marks.

 

[Walt_Jabsco]

Yeah, I stand by my comment on this one.

 

[Bonehead]

Why would you buy an eclipse, which is primarily known for it's fancy finish, and then just remove the finish? I'm sorry, that's just stupid. You've paid an extra $300 for that finish. If you didn't want it, you should've bought a stainless Kimber.

Well, for one reason because it wasn't bought for it's finish. the reason he bought his Eclipse ( and the same goes for me too ) was because of the fact that Kimber only makes the 10mm in two ways...... The Stainless Target and the Eclipse were the only two ways you could go and since he didn't want adjustable sights, and the fact the Eclipse has a checkered front strap and also night sights which the Target doesn't the price difference between the two does not mean much.
Add that to the it was about half way through getting some work done to it in those pictures...............

That all being said it all comes down to ,when someone pays $1000 or what ever for a gun he/she has every right to do anything they want to it no matter what anyone else's opinion is as long as he/she is happy

To be honest, I'm not a big fan of the Eclipse finish either but it will do for now......... really want a two tone just in a different way (black slide/Stainless frame and parts) ....though after carrying it a lot I am surprised how well the factory finish is holding up.

 

[Mr. Habib]

Why would you buy an eclipse, which is primarily known for it's fancy finish, and then just remove the finish? I'm sorry, that's just stupid. You've paid an extra $300 for that finish. If you didn't want it, you should've bought a stainless Kimber.

Didn't the OP specifically ask about refinishing a RIA 1911?

 

[dkc485]

If you know someone witha beltsander you can just use it on the slide till its smooth.......................

Here is a friend of mines Kimber Eclipse 10mm........ after the belt sander and bead blasting........

and if you look on the right that was it before.....

well because of the depth of the roll marks on my slide, i probably wouldn't use a belt sander to remove the markings. the kimber's markings look like they're laser etched, so probably not too deep.

Shooter, thanks for the info. I'm still going to email ISP, and maybe ATF just to clarify. You can never be too careful, especially these days

 

[triton54]

A 3m green wheel for a bench top grinder would work much for refinishing the slide. It is carbide impregnanted plastic. It works wonders on SS.