Finally got a Wicked Edge

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  • cbickel

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    8   0   0
    Aug 31, 2014
    541
    18
    Van by the river
    For production knives, factory edge means "just sharp enough". I can't think of a company that manufacturers production knives that you can't get a better, sharper edge than what comes from the factory...... Spyderco might come the closest. Obviously, "just sharp enough" does not apply to custom, and most mid-tech knives. :twocents:
    I guess that I just didn't know what "actual sharp" was. I picked up some 2500 grit sandpaper made for polishing and they make the bevels look a lot better that the 1000 grit stones. Don't know how much they do to the actual edge, but it makes it look pretty. :):
     

    Dean C.

    Master
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    2   0   0
    Aug 25, 2013
    4,470
    113
    Westfield
    I guess that I just didn't know what "actual sharp" was. I picked up some 2500 grit sandpaper made for polishing and they make the bevels look a lot better that the 1000 grit stones. Don't know how much they do to the actual edge, but it makes it look pretty. :):

    Be careful with the sandpaper it would suck if you accidentally rolled the edge. Also just wait untill you add the ceramics and strops that's when knives get "scary sharp" and can whittle hair
     

    cbickel

    Sharpshooter
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    8   0   0
    Aug 31, 2014
    541
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    Van by the river
    Be careful with the sandpaper it would suck if you accidentally rolled the edge. Also just wait untill you add the ceramics and strops that's when knives get "scary sharp" and can whittle hair
    What I did was tape a strip of it to a pair of stones and use them like I did all the other grits. Does that pose a risk of rolling the edge?
     

    Dean C.

    Master
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    2   0   0
    Aug 25, 2013
    4,470
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    Westfield
    What I did was tape a strip of it to a pair of stones and use them like I did all the other grits. Does that pose a risk of rolling the edge?

    Nope should be fine, I was not sure how you went about using the sandpaper and just wanted to give a general heads up. Also did you figure out what you were doing "wrong" that was preventing you from achieving the results you wanted?

    And as a general side note on factory "sharpness" I have to agree with Brad Spyderco does it best with full flat ground blades and a 18 degree per side sharpening job (making it a very fine cutting edge perfect for slicing as Rhino would say). In my experience most other companies (ZT, Benchmade, and CRKT) all use about a 22 degree per side bevel which makes the knives "less slicey" factories also generally use a 400 grit sander to put the edge on their knives so even if you keep the factory bevel sharpening anything past 400 grit will make the knife feel sharper.
     

    cbickel

    Sharpshooter
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    8   0   0
    Aug 31, 2014
    541
    18
    Van by the river
    Nope should be fine, I was not sure how you went about using the sandpaper and just wanted to give a general heads up. Also did you figure out what you were doing "wrong" that was preventing you from achieving the results you wanted?

    And as a general side note on factory "sharpness" I have to agree with Brad Spyderco does it best with full flat ground blades and a 18 degree per side sharpening job (making it a very fine cutting edge perfect for slicing as Rhino would say). In my experience most other companies (ZT, Benchmade, and CRKT) all use about a 22 degree per side bevel which makes the knives "less slicey" factories also generally use a 400 grit sander to put the edge on their knives so even if you keep the factory bevel sharpening anything past 400 grit will make the knife feel sharper.
    Right on. I'm not sure what I did differently, if anything, to get things moving in the right direction. I feel that the stones are more broken in (less gritty) and are giving me a finer result. There are definitely some things I'm learning. For example on my spyderco ffg knives I've been getting uneven bevels. I learned that I needed to add layers of tape or whatever to make it a flat surface in the vice, if that makes sense. Also I saw a tip on YouTube to put some strong magnets under the blade to collect shavings which has been a cool little add on.

    I really am am starting to see the benefits to the upgraded arms. Mine are already "squeaking" after less than 10 sharpening.
     

    Rookie

    Grandmaster
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    14   0   0
    Sep 22, 2008
    18,177
    113
    Kokomo
    Got mine out to sharpen my 12 inch butcher knife, which brings me to my question.

    How do you keep the blade from flexing on large knives? The little piece of metal they provide is worthless.
     

    Dean C.

    Master
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    2   0   0
    Aug 25, 2013
    4,470
    113
    Westfield
    Got mine out to sharpen my 12 inch butcher knife, which brings me to my question.

    How do you keep the blade from flexing on large knives? The little piece of metal they provide is worthless.

    You can't, or at least I cannot figure out how to. The key is to not apply a whole lot of pressure and keep your motions straight as to minimize flexing. I have sharpened a few larger knives like that with usually excellent results the slight flexing does not seem to affect the end result
     

    phylodog

    Grandmaster
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    59   0   0
    Mar 7, 2008
    18,933
    113
    Arcadia
    I've tried pushing the left side stone directly behind the right side stone and vice versa to sharpen a filet knife before. It works reasonably well but is obviously a slower process. If you keep equal (but gentle) pressure on both stones it'll keep the blade from flexing much.
     
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