First Attempt at Reloading

[Flaydogg]

I just bought a Lee Pro 1000 .45 kit from Midway this week. Went a bought everything to reload 100 rounds. It took me about 2 hours to get the press setup and functioning correctly. I used IMB 700X powder @ 5.1 grains, 230g bullets and Federal primers. I did 50 rounds to try it out tomorrow I'm going to the range and see how it works.

 

[Double T]

A word of advice: load fewer rounds at varying powder charges to see what works best (groups/POI/etc)

 

[pinshooter45]

From one Pro 1000 owner to another have Fun! They do take a little time to get going but once they are set up they'll run pretty good. I like mine even with their little quirks.

 

[Giddaltti]

Newb here as well, please explaine, why varying? I like to hear the thought process, what are we looking for? What about the measuring scoop?

 

[TheBigTim]

What type of bullets are you loading? Just a watch out if you are loading wad cutters keep an eye on the bullet “cocking” during the bullet set. This will lead to a bulge in the case and loading issues. They make a gage for checking for a bulge. Or you can use the barrel as a quick check. Loading is a lot of fun. Good luck.

 

[Flaydogg]

I'm using 230g round nose bullets. Why load different loads? I bought some reloads at the gun show that used 4.6g and the guy at the gun store recommended a 5.5 max.

 

[TheBigTim]

You should be fine then. Are these rounds led? Typically you want to stay under 1000 FPS with lead. That might be why the gun shop guy recomended 5.5 max. But it depends a lot on the type of powder. There is a lot of info online or in ammo manuals.
I typically go the powder manufactures web site and see what they recommend for bullet size and powder amount combinations. Less than 1000 fps is a good rule. Much over that and you run the risk of leading up your barrel.

 

[Double T]

Newb here as well, please explaine, why varying? I like to hear the thought process, what are we looking for? What about the measuring scoop?

Because different amounts of powder will give different velocities, thus generating different points of impact with the same point of AIM.

Sometimes, you want just enough powder for the gun to cycle reliably. Sometimes you want to make major power factor. Other times you want to keep something as close to X fps. Sometimes you want something that mimics your SD load.

All of these are valid goals, and all would need to have to be worked up. If you are taking reloading powder charges from a guy behind a counter, stop, and go get a reloading manual...or find charge data from the powder/bullet mfg(s).

A 230 gr plated bullet is not the same as a 230gr hard cast bullet, and they both require different powder charges to achieve the same results.

It's best to start low, and work up...especially for a reloading noobie

 

[Double T]

I'm using 230g round nose bullets. Why load different loads? I bought some reloads at the gun show that used 4.6g and the guy at the gun store recommended a 5.5 max.

Lyman's 49th suggests:700X for 230gr FMJ: 3.6 starting, 4.8 Max

Might want to pull those, and verify your load data before you start shooting or loading anything else.



ETA: Please let me know you read this, so I don't have to avoid the shooting ranges tomorrow.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

IMB 700X? Are you sure you don't mean IMR instead of IMB?

If so, that's over "never exceed" per "Modern Reloading", the guide that Lee wrote.

For 230 gr jacketed it's 5.0 and for lead it's 4.7 grains of IMR 700X.

 

[Flaydogg]

IMB 700X? Are you sure you don't mean IMR instead of IMB?

If so, that's over "never exceed" per "Modern Reloading", the guide that Lee wrote.

For 230 gr jacketed it's 5.0 and for lead it's 4.7 grains of IMR 700X.

Sorry it's IMR not IMB. Where I bought the reloading stuff he looked it up in the book and asked me what I was going to with the loads. I made sure I asked a lot of questions and I read some online stuff. But I do need to get a book.

 

[Broom_jm]

Sorry it's IMR not IMB. Where I bought the reloading stuff he looked it up in the book and asked me what I was going to with the loads. I made sure I asked a lot of questions and I read some online stuff. But I do need to get a book.

Reloading without your OWN data (physical book or online resources) is like driving a car with a completely blocked windshield...you might not wreck, but you're taking a lot of unnecessary risks.

The ONLY people you should trust for load data are the professional ballisticians who are paid to create such information, and those charged with ensuring that it is published w/o any errors or ambiguity. As a reloader, it is your responsibility to KNOW that what you're feeding into your gun is safe, not just hearsay from a guy at a gun shop.

I will never understand how people could spend thousands of dollars on guns, hundreds of dollars on reloading equipment and supplies, but refuse to spend tens of dollars on a quality load book.

 

[SERparacord]

Sorry it's IMR not IMB. Where I bought the reloading stuff he looked it up in the book and asked me what I was going to with the loads. I made sure I asked a lot of questions and I read some online stuff. But I do need to get a book.

I hope you bought a bullet puller.

 

[gregkl]

Because different amounts of powder will give different velocities, thus generating different points of impact with the same point of AIM.

It's best to start low, and work up...especially for a reloading noobie

Are there tables that will show the effect of POI with varying loads? I shot some 230gr LRN with 4.4gr Titegroup .45 Auto's and some factory rounds and all of them are hitting low. I have my sights adjusted as far as I can and I am still low. This is at 10 yards out of my FS 1911.

I can't imagine that POI would be changed much with pistol rounds at closer distances.

 

[BKExpress]

Take the time to learn what you're doing...it's worth it in the end. I've been doing handloads for rifles for a few months now, but my education started 3 months in advance of pulling the ram for the first time on my press. As a caveat I will admit that my intentions were to produce the highest quality/accurate rounds possible.

Others will say to watch a couple of youtube videos and get started. For me, I wanted to make certain I knew what I was doing.

Check out the link below from Amazaon.com with a lot of book choices.

Amazon.com: reloading for dummies: Books

 

[Flaydogg]

I went to the range and everything worked great. No misfires or any problems. I didnt measure what the grouping was but it shot fine. I'm downloading the ABC's of reloading for my iPad right now.

 

[Flaydogg]

This is what the bullets look like.

 

[Double T]

Are there tables that will show the effect of POI with varying loads? I shot some 230gr LRN with 4.4gr Titegroup .45 Auto's and some factory rounds and all of them are hitting low. I have my sights adjusted as far as I can and I am still low. This is at 10 yards out of my FS 1911.

I can't imagine that POI would be changed much with pistol rounds at closer distances.

Think of it like this, the bullet takes the same amount of time to fall. A faster moving projectile will be farther away when it drops below the muzzle, a slower moving projectile will drop below the muzzle at a closer distance.

It's theory, but it makes sense, even considering the boolits rise out of the barrel and then drop.

 

[giovani]

Think of it like this, the bullet takes the same amount of time to fall. A faster moving projectile will be farther away when it drops below the muzzle, a slower moving projectile will drop below the muzzle at a closer distance.

It's theory, but it makes sense, even considering the boolits rise out of the barrel and then drop.

Just making a clarification for the novice , a bullet will only rise in trajectory after leaving the barrel if the barrel is pointed above a level plane.
If the barrel is pointed dead level the bullet will drop below the axis of the barrel as soon as it leaves the barrel

 

[dominicandemon]

Reloading without your OWN data (physical book or online resources) is like driving a car with a completely blocked windshield...you might not wreck, but you're taking a lot of unnecessary risks.

The ONLY people you should trust for load data are the professional ballisticians who are paid to create such information, and those charged with ensuring that it is published w/o any errors or ambiguity. As a reloader, it is your responsibility to KNOW that what you're feeding into your gun is safe, not just hearsay from a guy at a gun shop.

I will never understand how people could spend thousands of dollars on guns, hundreds of dollars on reloading equipment and supplies, but refuse to spend tens of dollars on a quality load book.

Great advise.
Getting advise from a guy at a gun shop seems like a recipe for disaster.