Help a newb out.

[fullmetaljesus]

Ok so last year I bought two 1851 navy revolvers in 44 and then last week I bought 50 cal rifle. I think I'd like to make my own bullets. But it seems like there are no molds that just say "use this for such and such caliber"

So the 44 will be general shooting for pleasure and a side arm while hunting an the 50 cal will be a hunting rifle. Can some one please tell me what molds I need for them?

 

[Mgderf]

Ok so last year I bought two 1851 navy revolvers in 44 and then last week I bought 50 cal rifle. I think I'd like to make my own bullets. But it seems like there are no molds that just say "use this for such and such caliber"

So the 44 will be general shooting for pleasure and a side arm while hunting an the 50 cal will be a hunting rifle. Can some one please tell me what molds I need for them?

Many different molds will work for your applications.
The bigger question is, which bullet weight/profile does your gun like.

 

[Leadeye]

Round ball molds will cover the squares for revolvers which are usually .452 but I would check to be sure. The rifle will take something larger, but you should be good with two molds once you get a good read on the diameters. Hit GB and you might be able to pick up some two cavity molds very reasonably. Use soft lead.

 

[Michigan Slim]

A .490 round ball mould and a .015" patch if your twist is 1:48 or slower. For faster twists you can cast a .44 or .45 pistol bullet and use a sabot. Lee makes a dual mould that is a round ball and their R.E.A.L. bullet. I shoot both.

 

[fullmetaljesus]

Holy ****. I think there may be way more to this than I thought. I bought two 1851 revolvers bc they are awesome and I just got the 50 cal bc I've always wanted one. I know nothing and have never shot a muzzle loader.

What are the chances someone would like to take me under their wing and educate me.

Can we meet at a range? I'll buy lunch or something.

 

[Michigan Slim]

Too far away from me. It's really not too bad. You just need to see it done.
What type of rifle did you get? Traditional or inline?

 

[fullmetaljesus]

Too far away from me. It's really not too bad. You just need to see it done.
What type of rifle did you get? Traditional or inline?

I'm guessing traditional.

 

[Leadeye]

Holy ****. I think there may be way more to this than I thought. I bought two 1851 revolvers bc they are awesome and I just got the 50 cal bc I've always wanted one. I know nothing and have never shot a muzzle loader.

What are the chances someone would like to take me under their wing and educate me.

Can we meet at a range? I'll buy lunch or something.

Lots of good stuff on the internet available, Blackie Thomas has a variety of videos on cap and ball revolvers in addition to his bushcraft stuff. Mike Beliveau is another one.

 

[Michigan Slim]

I'm guessing traditional.

View attachment 350365

Yup. It will probably shoot conicals or round balls decent. Not worth a darn with sabots.
If and when you find #11 caps, buy all you can.

 

[Old Dog]

I assume that you did not get owners manuals for the 1851s or the rifle. If you do a net search for the manuals, based on the manufacturer, I think you will find the info you seek. Also, buy all the black powder you can afford, as it is sometimes scarce. I will followup with some additional info after I look in my manuals.

 

[Old Dog]

T/C Treehawk .50 cal = .490, 175-177 gr. ball w/ .015 lubed patch. 50-110 gr. 2F black powder.

Pietta 1860 Colt and 1858 Remington = .454 round ball, no patches, 12-35 gr. 3F black powder. I use a wonder wad over powder, and seat ball well onto the wad. I have used a .451 round ball just for plinking.

Ruger Old Army = .457 round ball, no patches, wonder wad over powder, and seat ball well onto the wad, 15 gr. to as much 3F powder as you can stuff under the wad and ball and still seat the ball below cylinder edge. I have used .454 balls also with good results.

Pyrodex or Triple 7 loads will be different, but I don't use that crap.

Good luck, and if you have any other questions someone here can probably help.

 

[Wolfhound]

Yup. It will probably shoot conicals or round balls decent. Not worth a darn with sabots.
If and when you find #11 caps, buy all you can.

Brian’s Surplus has them. They also bring some to the gunshows. Fair prices also.
Just FYI on #11 caps.

 

[Mongo59]

The Minnie balls are fun to shoot and easy to load in the .50, they aren't just for breakfast anymore...

 

[Mongo59]

Oh, and I think Pyrodex tastes better than BP...

 

[Slow Hand]

If you’re just starting out, I’d buy some Hornady swaged round balls to shoot in each of them and some Minie styles for the rifle as well. Once you see what they like, you can get cheap Lee molds and start casting your own.

For the revolvers probably around 25gr of FFFg or FFg black powder or Pyrodex P. You’ll want to get an adjustable powder measure. I like the cylindrical type with the swing away funnel. You can scoop powder out of a can or bowl into the powder measure, but a brass powder flask will make it easier and less messy. You can use wonder wads over the powder and under the ball or seat the ball directly on top of the powder and seal the front of the cylinder with bore butter or just use crisco. Do all the loading then cap the nipples and fire away.

With the rifle as stared, between 50-100 gr of powder. For a .50 cal preferably FFg you n black or Pyrodex RS. Pour it down the barrel and if you’re using a round ball, sit the patch on the muzzle, center up the ball and then to make it easier use a short starter to get the bullet a few inches down the barrel. Then use the ram rod to firmly seat the ball on top of the powder. If you’re using a Minie style, you don’t use a patch. Cap it and fire away.