High Standard Model B Restoration (for posterity!)

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  • Hookeye

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Dec 19, 2011
    15,122
    77
    armpit of the midwest
    I have seen bbls and slides go for about 50 bucks each (depending on model/cond). They pop up now and then, should be able to find them at shows, LGS or through word of mouth, maybe even auction sites if you get desperate. I'm betting you won't find any parts for your build at the new HS.

    Worked with a HS collector yrs ago, can ask if he has parts he's willing to let go ;)

    Dropping another $100, on a rig that might be worth $300 when done........is cutting it kinda close IMHO.
    The purchase of replacement parts would be for time savings, better look, and for you keeping the item when done.

    IIRC there's a light pit, mod holster wear B model at a nearby gunshop for $399 and it's sat for a while.
     
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    philbert001

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    9   0   0
    Mar 4, 2012
    964
    18
    Allen County
    I have already put my money where my mouth is... i have posted at least 5 TRUE restoration projects on here.... and in the 5 years i have been here probably have at least 30 threads similar to yours.... so my money IS where my mouth is... and i wasnt trying to troll your thread, rather correct you from using improper terms so you dont sound like the senator that likes to talk about ghost guns.

    See here what people look like who use the right words, inappropriately.

    Sen. Kevin de León - Ghost Guns PC 1/13/14 - YouTube


    Either way, looks like you have made some real progress. If you intend on filling the pits and painting i would use some sort of finish that doesnt require heat. the epoxy that you would use to fill the wholes does NOT like heat and will more than likely distort some. Duracoat will work for this, as will air dry moly resin and cerekote. the air dry moly resin would be my choice for simplicity vs. cost vs. looks. I also reccomend devcon steel for the epoxy you use to fill in the pits.... its consistancy is slightly more runny than peanut butter but once it cures its REALLY good stuff.
    That wasn't really aimed at you. It was aimed at all the members who will regurgitate whatever you say, because you ARE a skilled smith, with 10,000+ INGO posts!. I claim no more than a moderately skilled guy with mechanical inclination, and 20 years experience repairing and REFINISHING :rolleyes: metal! Does that make me a Bubba!?

    Let's put it this way. We are both restoring firearms. You are doing the equivalent restoration to a concours d'elegance car, (100% original specs.) while I am doing it more like the Chip Foose method. Resto-mod, if you will. (If you aren't a car guy that went right over your head! Sorry!)

    I have my gameplan on stuff like this as soon as it's disassembled! FAR before INGO sees it! I really do post my projects to help fellow gunowners build up the courage to work on/maintain their firearms! Take a basketcase and tinker! (Much like this one!) I have 0 doubt that this will be a good looking, good shooting little pistol when I'm done with it. Those are really my only 2 requirements for my firearms! I don't care about value, originality or any of that. (with a few exceptions!)
     

    philbert001

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    9   0   0
    Mar 4, 2012
    964
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    Allen County
    I have seen bbls and slides go for about 50 bucks each (depending on model/cond). They pop up now and then, should be able to find them at shows, LGS or through word of mouth, maybe even auction sites if you get desperate. I'm betting you won't find any parts for your build at the new HS.

    Worked with a HS collector yrs ago, can ask if he has parts he's willing to let go ;)

    Dropping another $100, on a rig that might be worth $300 when done........is cutting it kinda close IMHO.
    The purchase of replacement parts would be for time savings, better look, and for you keeping the item when done.

    IIRC there's a light pit, mod holster wear B model at a nearby gunshop for $399 and it's sat for a while.
    I just want a good shooter! I'll pay $100 and a couple days effort to have one. Don't much care about value on something like this! That's why I'd rather just repair what I can, Replace what I MUST!
     

    Hookeye

    Grandmaster
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    4   0   0
    Dec 19, 2011
    15,122
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    armpit of the midwest
    If it works then you don't need to replace it :)
    Was just wondering what level of pitting you were willing to tolerate.
    I know a guy that got a Smith 52 from a flood, got it back up and running, reblued after some attempt at reducing the damage........ and it still has some wicked pitting.
    He just laughs, as it still makes a ragged hole in the X.

    A "not too fat gal that can kinda sorta cook" type of thing ;)
     

    philbert001

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    Mar 4, 2012
    964
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    Allen County
    Moving on...

    I found this American Rifleman article about this gun, and it inspired my plans for the finish on the gun. I have always liked how old park looks, and I think I can match this look better than using a Blue "colored" coating. (They never look like Blue!)

    Cool history of the gun in the article.

    American Rifleman - Hi-Standard Military Model B-US

    And the pics, if you aren't a reader

    201261894444-histandard22_m.jpg


    2036Histandard22_web.jpg
     

    philbert001

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    Mar 4, 2012
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    Allen County
    If it works then you don't need to replace it :)
    Was just wondering what level of pitting you were willing to tolerate.
    I know a guy that got a Smith 52 from a flood, got it back up and running, reblued after some attempt at reducing the damage........ and it still has some wicked pitting.
    He just laughs, as it still makes a ragged hole in the X.

    A "not too fat gal that can kinda sorta cook" type of thing ;)
    When it's done, it'll have no more pits. As far as anyone will be able to tell, I just duracoated a gun with worn out blue! As long as the pitting isn't so extreme that it's making a gun unsafe or inaccurate, I say fill it and spray it!
     

    walt o

    Expert
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    5   0   0
    Feb 10, 2008
    1,099
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    Hammond
    BOYLE_1
    this is restored not recoated
    just your semantics like clip=magazine
    Tig all the pits ,bring back all dimensions to print specs then refinish
    didn't mean to step on any toes
     

    philbert001

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    9   0   0
    Mar 4, 2012
    964
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    Allen County
    BOYLE_1
    this is restored not recoated
    just your semantics like clip=magazine
    Tig all the pits ,bring back all dimensions to print specs then refinish
    didn't mean to step on any toes
    Sounds like about 300 hours of work, that won't result in a pistol technically any better than the 30 hour plans I have made! Not MY semantics! I'm just trying to post pictures of my project. Not debate definitions between "restored", and "repaired and refinished!"
     

    philbert001

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    Mar 4, 2012
    964
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    Allen County
    BOYLE_1
    this is restored not recoated
    So, do you think that is lacquer paint? (Looks like base clear to me) Did they have powdercoat back in the 30's? (I'd bet even money that those wheels, hubs, and spokes are powdercoated!) Do you think those panels are metal finished? (No filler, whatsoever), or do you think they straightened it with molten lead? (Period correct repair)
    Clearly my point is that something can be restored, without being at exact factory spec!
     

    philbert001

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    Well, she's not done, but I'm making progress! We're doing a bunch of remodeling around the house, so my honey-do list is longer than my free time!

    I got all the pitting either filled or leveled, being careful to avoid all the roll marks.
    100_8138_zps854566dd.jpg
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    After another degreasing, I masked off all the roll marks in preparation for primer. (Durafill.)
    100_8148_zpsff9908e8.jpg
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    100_8150_zps4cb255ae.jpg


    Next, I sprayed 3 good coats of durafill over all my filler.

    100_8156_zps899ad71b.jpg
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    After she set up enough to handle, I made a wire rack to hold the gun, with a rod down the barrel, so I could set it on my fireplace mantle to dry, without it touching anything. With the fireplace burning, I left it on the mantle all day yesterday, to catalyze the primer. Probably got a metal temp of 130 degrees, so that hardener was surely happy!

    Next is to level all my primer to the metal, in prep for duracoating. I only primed it to seal in my filler, so most of the primer will be coming back off before she gets coated again.
     

    philbert001

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    Mar 4, 2012
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    Thanks guys!I was happy that everything blended in after a single prime. I just finished cleaning up small parts and degreasing the frame and slide for duracoat. I'm trying Duracoat's "Parker" color. I was unsure, until I googled images of it in the wild, and it looks pretty good!

    Unless it turns out awful, expect pics in the next 24 hours!
     

    philbert001

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    Mar 4, 2012
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    Allen County
    As promised!

    I have a little touchup to do, but all in all, she came out decent! Still have parts to swap, but I couldn't help but do a mockup!

    Got all my parts I'm replacing ordered tonight! I was amazed that High Standard still supports a pistol that hasn't been made in 70 years. When I called them, they had everything I needed but one part. They told me to check Numrich, ( Firearm Parts & Accessories | Military Surplus | Numrich Gun Parts ), and sure enough, they had it all, for 30% less than High Standard had it for!

    Enough ****-chat! Bring on the gun porn!...

    100_8176_zps552fb06a.jpg
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    That's all you're getting, until she's DONE done!

    All in all, I'm happy with it. Not too bad considering it was a gun you'd have been scared to let touch your other guns a few weeks ago!
     
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