Quick question for those with more experience than me. Has anyone had an issue reloading lake city brass? I got a bunch of 7.62 (probably cheap). Anyway, I started reloading it after cleaning and was having problems getting primers seated on a bunch. The I tried loading one in my weatherby van guard, just to see if it would load, and I couldn’t get the bolt to close. Tried it in my ar and it closed, but had to disassemble to get it back out. Does this sound familiar at all?
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Lake city 7.62
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Crimped primer pockets, to start. Need to remove that.
Set your size die down a touch.
Measure case length. LC brass is all over the map.
Set your size die down a touch.
Measure case length. LC brass is all over the map.
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When you FL size, the brass will stretch and you will need to trim the length. Depending on what gun the round was fired in the brass could have expanded quite a bit. When you FL size, that brass has to go somewhere! It extends the case.
You will need a swager for the crimped primer pockets
You will need a swager for the crimped primer pockets
You're fine. Everybody's new at everything they do, at least once.
In the case of what sounds like mixed, fired Lake City, make sure you are inspecting carefully, and bumping the shoulder back into the lower end of SAAMI spec range if you're going to use it in more than one rifle.
When you can, as soon as you can, get a copy of:
"Handloading for Competition..." by Glen Zediker.
Read, grasshopper. Books contain the enlightenment you seek.
Took me a while, but I figured out that the Internet has more than porn too. Man, was I shocked.
Took me a while, but I figured out that the Internet has more than porn too. Man, was I shocked.
One more thing, most Lake City 7.62 has been shot in a machine gun. They have generous chambers. Every case will need to full length sized a a minimum and occasionally they may need to be sized in a "Small Base" sizing die. Also, TRIM to proper length. And, as others have said, cut or swage you primer pockets
His Lee is a small base die, like Diĺlon and a few other die companies. If it's a bottle neck caliber that is available in a pump, lever and a autoloader dies from a few companies are going to already be small base. If the die company doesn't make small base dies its because those calibers they sell already are SBD's
Video on reloading.
You are making me want to go in the basement and set finish my reloading room! I haven't been able to reload in 2 years due to my move.
I'm a meticulous person and consistency will bring accuracy in reloading. Some steps are overboard and unnecessary, but this is how I like to do it. I have a turret press, so I don't need to set up each die during the process. If you don't have one, it is worth it to look into it. I strictly use the RCBS for 7.62/.308 and a Dillon progressive press for 5.56/.223. The process is basically the same for each with slight differences.
My steps:
1. I have a cheap 1 stage Lee press. I strictly use this for depriming because it is messy. I like to deprime first because I need to get the primers pressed in deep due to my reloading for an M1A.
2. Run the deprimed brass through my Frankford Arsenal tumbler with pins
3. Check all cases once cleaned and dry
4. Lube cases and FL resize them - I got lucky and bought 2 lots of reloading equipment. Included was a case comparator so that helped me set up the die for the shoulder bump (This would be the point where I would swage the primer pocket if using military brass since there is some lube on the case to make it easier)
5. Trim cases and add a slight chamfer (just to make the mouth not completely square and clean off any excess from the trim) - I run them all through the trimmer without measuring them first, I just run them all through. If they don't need trimmed, I'll at least know they went through the process. I'll measure every 10th one or so, just to make sure nothing has moved in the trimmer
6. Run the cases through the Frankford Arsenal tumbler without pins
6.5 - Edit - I just remembered this step (It's been 2 years) - I check every piece of brass in a case gauge to check for ease of entry and exit in the gauge as well as the length of the case. This can seem a little extreme, but I'm overly cautious! This is where you can check the shoulder bump to ensure you got it back far enough. It simulates chambering the round but you have a better visual on it.
7. Prime - After priming I check the depth of all the primers. I use a straight edge to make sure there is just a tiny bit of light near the primer (I'm reloading for M1A so slam fires are an issue and primer depth is very important)
8. Hand measure out my powder and add to case
9. Press in bullet I will also measure the OAL about every 5th - 10th (somewhere in there) to ensure the die hasn't moved and everything is still good
10. Measure the OAL of all
11. I light to medium crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp Die. I consider it a must for anything semi-auto, but it is highly debated.
12. I weigh each round to ensure they are all within a very close range. If using the same cases, they should all be almost identical with ever so slight variation...very slight! LOL Even though I hand measured the powder, I still do this for safety.
My 5.56 loads are mixed brass so the variation is greater. If I find one that appears to be out of a range that I have in mind, I'll set it aside and look at it when I'm done with the batch. Most times they will be military cases (if higher in weight) that are thicker brass than a commercial case. In which case I'll let it pass. My 5.56 loads are not that hot, just plinking. You always want to be careful with light loads too. This could cause a stuck projectile in the bore (squib). Higher and lower powder measures are more of an issue with the progressive press because they are obviously not hand weighed.
I reload by the hundreds, so this is a heck of a time consuming process. But when I get done, there is no question everything is the right size, length and weight and is safe.
I am self taught through Youtube University. It takes hours of research to understand the "whys" and "hows" when reloading. I wouldn't recommend reloading to someone who doesn't have dedication and the ability to concentrate. A mistake in reloading could be very, very bad. Attention to detail is a must. If you stick with it, it really is a highly addictive and rewarding procedure!
I'm a meticulous person and consistency will bring accuracy in reloading. Some steps are overboard and unnecessary, but this is how I like to do it. I have a turret press, so I don't need to set up each die during the process. If you don't have one, it is worth it to look into it. I strictly use the RCBS for 7.62/.308 and a Dillon progressive press for 5.56/.223. The process is basically the same for each with slight differences.
My steps:
1. I have a cheap 1 stage Lee press. I strictly use this for depriming because it is messy. I like to deprime first because I need to get the primers pressed in deep due to my reloading for an M1A.
2. Run the deprimed brass through my Frankford Arsenal tumbler with pins
3. Check all cases once cleaned and dry
4. Lube cases and FL resize them - I got lucky and bought 2 lots of reloading equipment. Included was a case comparator so that helped me set up the die for the shoulder bump (This would be the point where I would swage the primer pocket if using military brass since there is some lube on the case to make it easier)
5. Trim cases and add a slight chamfer (just to make the mouth not completely square and clean off any excess from the trim) - I run them all through the trimmer without measuring them first, I just run them all through. If they don't need trimmed, I'll at least know they went through the process. I'll measure every 10th one or so, just to make sure nothing has moved in the trimmer
6. Run the cases through the Frankford Arsenal tumbler without pins
6.5 - Edit - I just remembered this step (It's been 2 years) - I check every piece of brass in a case gauge to check for ease of entry and exit in the gauge as well as the length of the case. This can seem a little extreme, but I'm overly cautious! This is where you can check the shoulder bump to ensure you got it back far enough. It simulates chambering the round but you have a better visual on it.
7. Prime - After priming I check the depth of all the primers. I use a straight edge to make sure there is just a tiny bit of light near the primer (I'm reloading for M1A so slam fires are an issue and primer depth is very important)
8. Hand measure out my powder and add to case
9. Press in bullet I will also measure the OAL about every 5th - 10th (somewhere in there) to ensure the die hasn't moved and everything is still good
10. Measure the OAL of all
11. I light to medium crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp Die. I consider it a must for anything semi-auto, but it is highly debated.
12. I weigh each round to ensure they are all within a very close range. If using the same cases, they should all be almost identical with ever so slight variation...very slight! LOL Even though I hand measured the powder, I still do this for safety.
My 5.56 loads are mixed brass so the variation is greater. If I find one that appears to be out of a range that I have in mind, I'll set it aside and look at it when I'm done with the batch. Most times they will be military cases (if higher in weight) that are thicker brass than a commercial case. In which case I'll let it pass. My 5.56 loads are not that hot, just plinking. You always want to be careful with light loads too. This could cause a stuck projectile in the bore (squib). Higher and lower powder measures are more of an issue with the progressive press because they are obviously not hand weighed.
I reload by the hundreds, so this is a heck of a time consuming process. But when I get done, there is no question everything is the right size, length and weight and is safe.
I am self taught through Youtube University. It takes hours of research to understand the "whys" and "hows" when reloading. I wouldn't recommend reloading to someone who doesn't have dedication and the ability to concentrate. A mistake in reloading could be very, very bad. Attention to detail is a must. If you stick with it, it really is a highly addictive and rewarding procedure!
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Thank you for all the great info. I’ve only been loading for a couple years. I’ve had great success with the handgun and other rifle calibers I’ve done. But I recently got the 308(s) and this is the first time I’ve had a problem of this sort that just didn’t make sense to me. Still a rookie and don’t know by half what I probably need to. But I really enjoy it. It’s a great pastime. And I probably don’t save the money I think I do over store bought rounds, but way more rewarding to get it right.
You are absolutely correct. It is in no way cheaper. Over a lifetime, maybe. But to reload a couple hundred, nope. If accuracy is your forte, then reloading fits the bill. Or if you don't drink and have to keep your hands busy! Oh yeah, drinking and reloading isn't a good idea either!
If you are loading hunting or match grade ammunition for your 308-win you save a lot of money with just 100rds.
Hornady Superformance SST .308 Win 150-Grain Rifle Ammunition - 20 Rounds | Academy
The Hornady Superformance SST .308 Win 150-Grain Rifle Ammunition is a high-performance centerfire ammo for hunting and shooting. It delivers a fast muzzle velocity...
www.academy.com
$43 for 20rds you definitely can reload way cheaper.
Federal Gold Medal Match 308 Winchester 175 Grain SMK BTHP | 308/7.62 Ammo For Sale - Ammunition Depot
Buy Federal Gold Medal Match 308 Winchester 175 Grain SMK BTHP Online Now! Ammunition Depot offers a wide selection of bulk ammo for game, target practice, and self-defense.
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$40 for 20rds again you will save a lot reloading your own.
$15 for 20rds you save on this also but not as much as you would loading your own hunting or match grade ammunition.
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