An alternative to the previous design
When disassembled, 3 will fit in a bag this size.
I don't recommend gluing pvc unless necessary. It is much easier to replace a damaged part. If you must, try something that isn't permanent.
I’ve been using these target stands on a home range for a few years now. After posting pictures of a wood stand I recently built to hold a steel plate (https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...stand_for_long_distance_steel.html#post807504) some fellow INGOers asked that I post more about the portable stands.
I wanted a stand that was easy to move, weather resistant, easy to build, and not too costly. I settled on PVC bases because they met my criteria.
Target stand with new backer board
Backside of the stand
Target base
The base starts as a 10’ section of 1.5” PVC. Cut that into 8 pieces each 15” long. I used a table saw to cut the pipe, but most any saw will work. It’s nice to have the ends cut square, but not an absolute requirement. Clean any burrs off the cut ends.
You’ll also need the following 1.5” PVC fittings:
4 elbows
2 tees
When gluing PVC, you first spread cleaner on the outside of the pipe and inside of the fitting. Then spread glue on both surfaces and push them together. Hold the pieces together for about 10-15 seconds and it’s good to go. Work one joint at a time. If you’re unsure about how to glue joints, there are many websites with instructions. Here’s one: HOW TO CUT AND GLUE PVC PIPE
I started by gluing the elbows on the pieces that form the outer part of the base. Then I glued the three straight pieces into each tee, and then I glued the tee assemblies to the outer parts taking care that the upright portions of the target stand pointed straight up. It’s helpful to make some pencil marks on the pipe to show how it should align. With PVC glue, you only get one chance! Let the glue joints dry 2-3 hours before using them.
PVC Cleaner and Glue
One final trick. I drill four 3/16” holes in the bottom of the pipes to let water drain that might get in around the upright section of pipe.
The upright sticks I ripped from 2x4s and 2x6s I had around. They are 1.5” wide and about ½” thick. They’re just thick enough to go into the PVC pipe but not wobble around.
The backer boards I use are ¼” thick poster material with Styrofoam sandwiched in-between. They were used posters I got from work. They have some weather resistance and will hold paper targets on with staples. Cardboard sheets would also work, though they will sag and warp when rained on. Thin sheets of wood might also do. The backer boards are held on with stainless steel bolts, fender washers, and wingnuts. The bolts in the picture are longer than they need to be. I was originally going a different direction with my stands and bought longer bolts.
Wingnut detail
Here’s what they look like after some range time. This backer was used at last Fall’s “You Suck, It’s Not the Gun” class. This one still has lots of life left in it.
Used Target
I keep extra sticks and backer boards on-hand that have pre-drilled holes for quick replacement.
The upright sticks come out of the base for transport. Several bases will ‘nest’ together and take up less space in your trunk. These target stands can be transported, but they are still bulky. The other minor downside is their light weight. Moderate winds will blow them over or require you to weigh down the bases. I’ve never had them blow over while I’m at the range.
If the PVC bases don’t work for you, I’ve seen metal stands like this onethat work well. http://speedwelltargets.com/cart/images/speedwell/stalps.jpg
Good luck and happy shooting!
