Looking for a machine shop for some full scale cannon work in the Indy area

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • Beowulf

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    66   0   0
    Mar 21, 2012
    2,880
    83
    Brownsburg
    I know this is a bit outside the bounds of normal gunsmithing, but I've had to folks lined up for this project that have fallen through, so I thought I would reach out here and see if anyone knows a shop that might be able help.

    I have a replica 3 pounder Whitworth cannon (2" bore). It's a breechloading gun, but unlike the original, it's a smooth bore, not rifled. Now, the problem is that if I use the normal muzzle loading cannon technique of a seperate powder bag and ball, you still have to ram it from the breech to make sure the ball hasn't rolled away from charge (with a true rifled gun, the project engages the rifling first and gets held in place until fire, preventing that issue. Plus, the powder "bag" (it's tin foil) typically needs to be punctured before firing, as the 209 shotgun primer doesn't always punch through. So, the way we did it before is to have someone push the ramrod down the muzzle, holding the ball against the charge and the charge against the breech block, then remove the firing mechnism, puncture the bag, and then screw the mechanism back in (get the rammer out of the way), load the 209 primer, and then fire. It's cumbersome and really defeats the purpose of having a breechloading cannon to begin with.

    So, what I want to do is have some cartridge cases made up out of steel (with a simple hole instead of a convention primer pocket, since the gun is exterior primed, which is both historically accurate and prevents it from being a Destructive Device as classified by the ATF). I can have the powder charge bag inside the cartridge case, with the projectile put on top of it (maybe held in with some tape, just to keep it as a unit, if press fitting doesn't do it). That should let me increase the firing rate, plus make it way easier to puncture the bag with the breech open, then simply close the breech, simplifying the loading procedure.

    The cases would be about 6" long and probably just a hair less than 2" in OD, since the barrel is exactly 2" ID, with a relatively thin rim on the outside, as it's just meant to hold the case in place while the bag is punctured before the breech is closed (there is a small amount of clearance for a rim between the breech block and the breech face, I'll have to hunt down the measurements).

    Anyway, the shop I started with on this doesn't have the bandwidth to work on this and the hobby machinist friend I have who was going to give this a try has his lathe down, so he can't do it.

    I'm also wanting to talk to someone about building a lead mold for a projectile for the gun that would work with the gun and let me cast them at home (unfortunately, the 2" diameter is just a bit too small to use the normal expedient of concrete filled soup cans, as I can't find a roughly 1.95" diameter standard for cans to use). I made a rough sketch up of the projectile I'm thinking about (hollow base to try to provide stability and ease up the weight that a solid lead project would have, since the original guns fired iron projectiles.

    Whitworth Lead Shell diagram.jpg

    And just for fun, here is the gun the first time I had it out at the range (last Fall's Proteq INGO shoot):

    [video=youtube;6J6LSPeIKjU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6J6LSPeIKjU[/video]
     

    Leadeye

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 19, 2009
    37,004
    113
    .
    I can't speak for the machine work, but Accurate mold is a great custom mold shop.
     

    Leadeye

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 19, 2009
    37,004
    113
    .
    AllenM on our board is a good machinist, I would bet he could make a mold for you. He's good at dealing with abstract ideas, he made the Broomhandle rifle scope bracket for me. For a 2 inch ball, the handles will need to be custom made as well.
     

    AmmoManAaron

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    37   0   0
    Feb 20, 2015
    3,334
    83
    I-get-around
    I've seen some people just use two strips of making tape to hold the ball onto the powder charge. The whole assembly isn't very sturdy and needs to be handled gently, but it seemed to be better than nothing and quicker than the procedure you are using now. Might be worth a try before going the $$$ route.
     

    gmcttr

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    May 22, 2013
    8,671
    149
    Columbus
    If it's of any help, the O.D. of 1.5" schedule 40/80 PVC pipe is 1.90". Thinking you could fill with concrete or whatever for a projectile.

    Another thought...cut PVC however long needed to fill forward section with concrete leaving room for the powder charge as well. Fill back section with powder and seal with tape/aluminum foil. This also gives you a skirted projectile for stability.

    Groove the inside of the PVC (or epoxy bond) so the concrete plug does not blow out leaving the PVC in the bore if the side walls expand and grip the cannon bore.
     

    Beowulf

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    66   0   0
    Mar 21, 2012
    2,880
    83
    Brownsburg
    If it's of any help, the O.D. of 1.5" schedule 40/80 PVC pipe is 1.90". Thinking you could fill with concrete or whatever for a projectile.

    Another thought...cut PVC however long needed to fill forward section with concrete leaving room for the powder charge as well. Fill back section with powder and seal with tape/aluminum foil. This also gives you a skirted projectile for stability.

    Groove the inside of the PVC (or epoxy bond) so the concrete plug does not blow out leaving the PVC in the bore if the side walls expand and grip the cannon bore.

    That is an interesting idea. I'll look into that. If nothing else, maybe making them into projectiles, which would definitely be cheap to shoot.

    How many of these you want? I can handle that size work

    Thanks, I'll PM you. Depending on cost, I was thinking of at least 2, maybe more (having ready set charges/projectiles would be nice to save time when shooting).
     
    Top Bottom