Looking for help on a Saiga 12

[tat2clod]

Looking for help with my Saiga 12 seems to be a gas issue but not certain,Does anyone have a recommendation for a Gunsmith familiar with these?Im in Bloomington Thanks

 

[TheWabbit]

What's wrong with it? Has it ever worked correctly?

Did you try cleaning out the gas ports? - Strip the gun and look inside the gas port. Inside you see the holes drilled in the top of the barrel. If you have only 1 hole, that's going to be another issue. If you have 2 or more, make sure all the ports are cleared and no junk is blocking them.

 

[tat2clod]

Yes it's worked good with everything but low brass put in a CSS adjustable valve and puck and throughly cleaned everything including the ports going to strip it again and see what's happened

 

[Clay]

so it worked, then you added an adjustable gas piston, and now it doesnt?

See where I'm going with this?

Saigas are notorious for not working with cheap low powered (low brass) ammo. If it won't run with it as it came from the factory, then adding an adjustable gas piston to it wont make it run better. The factory 2 position adjustable has 1 position that is 'full gas', and if that won't do it, then you need MORE gas.

You need to look at a couple things:

1) how many holes does it have in the barrel to supply the gas system? Most have 3, some have 4, and some of them even have 2. ALSO, you need to look at how many of the holes are available to the gas block, ie make sure that 2 holes aren't covered by the gas block. Some S12s are what they call a 'Vodka special' where the the barrel or gas block was installed off a bit, and some of the holes are covered up.

Your options from here to get more gas are to make the holes bigger, make more holes, etc etc. and there are multiple ways to do that.

2) Smooth out and polish the bottom of the bolt carrier and top of the hammer, where they slide together during cycling. This will help some, but its not usually the sole fix for the problem.

Saiga 12s, in my experience, are pretty finicky. Thats why I love my VEPR12. Eats everything right out of the box.

 

[sht4brnz]

Also try turning the puck around

 

[tat2clod]

Well after some cussing and poking and prodding there is three gas ports,with that said was able to get a small piece of wire in each either there's not a fourth hole or its possibly covered?the puck seems to be quite snug had to persuade it out is this normal?Sorry to be a pain but this a new animal to what I'm normally using sht4brnz at this time I'm willing to try about anything

 

[Clay]

after they've been shot the pucks tend to get some carbon fowling on them and yes, they will be harder to get out. Clean it up, clean the bore where the puck fits and it should easily slide in and move back and forth freely.

You can open up the ports and see if that helps. Most say just open the holes up to 3/32". OR you can do it the trial and error way: Don't go super big, just find what size hole they are now and go the next drill bit bigger. Then run the shotgun to see if it will function. Rinse and repeat as necessary All mine are 3/32".

You'll have to take the gas block off to do this, thats why its a pain.

[video=youtube;dABXE1RsVE0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dABXE1RsVE0[/video]

Also, a lower power recoil spring helps as well. They are available a few places like CSS.

 

[tat2clod]

I'll work on my puck and gas tube and see what that does for it?Thanks for the link and your help

 

[sht4brnz]

does your puck look like the factory original?
if yes, puck direction is irrelevant.
if no (looks like picture), make certain that the smooth side is on the muzzle end.

 

[rock]

do not coat the puck with oil. Dry

 

[rock]

get a
[h=1]TAC 47 A.K.A AUTO PLUG[/h]

 

[TheWabbit]

get a TAC 47 A.K.A AUTO PLUG

He needs to get the gun working reliably with low brass before trying the auto plug. Even the instructions state that.

 

[tat2clod]

TheWabbit got a good test out of it Sunday got my CSS plug moving easier and cleaned and cleaned done good with high brass no dice on the low brass may need to have the gas ports opened a little?Its got three gas ports have the puck with the flat side towards the bolt it was that way when I took it apart the first time

 

[spaniel]

TheWabbit got a good test out of it Sunday got my CSS plug moving easier and cleaned and cleaned done good with high brass no dice on the low brass may need to have the gas ports opened a little?Its got three gas ports have the puck with the flat side towards the bolt it was that way when I took it apart the first time

Look up how to properly profile the hammer and bolt before you go drilling ports. Mine wouldn't cycle any birdshot ammo when I got it. I did the profiling and polished everything, and it hasn't missed a beat since. No port drilling needed.

 

[vitamink]

Look up how to properly profile the hammer and bolt before you go drilling ports. Mine wouldn't cycle any birdshot ammo when I got it. I did the profiling and polished everything, and it hasn't missed a beat since. No port drilling needed.

I second this. There are places like cobra customs that polish the bolts and triggers. Also there is a "booster" puck which fills more area than the original giving more power on less gas. The final thing I'd try is drilling the holes. Once you drill it'll allow more crap to pass through and that will build up behind the puck causing further issues. Of course if nothing else works, do it. The tac47 plug works best with over gassed guns. The CSS or gunfixr adjustable will maximize the gas you've got. Did you put a rail on the gun? There is an exhaust port on the side of the gun that can get covered by rail systems and cause an air shock absorber situation.

 

[TheWabbit]

I missed the question the first time. I would agree that you should try all other methods like polishing the bolt before drilling the ports. As said above, once that is done, it is forever.

My gun didn't like WW cheap stuff at first but after I converted it and added the CSS puck, it works fine. I just leave it on the furthest setting to the left (if looking at it).

 

[tat2clod]

Yes it has the rail and will give it a look soon as I get home,I messaged the Cobra Customs guy about giving my bolt some love you don't by chance have a link for the over sized puck do you?

 

[vitamink]

Here is the MD arms one.

Saiga Booster Piston [Booster Piston] - $12.00 : MD Arms LTD, Where Dream Toys Become Reality

Here is a discussion on the vent hole

GAS BLOCK VENT HOLE - Saiga-12 - forum.Saiga-12.com

here is a profiled vs stock bolt, notice the lack of edges. Below that is a profiled, and polished bolt.

Here is shannon from cobra customs work. There is another guy, Pauly's Steelin' that does it, don't go with him. He got arrested or some **** and has had peoples bolts/carriers for like 2 years. Pauly be stealin'

New AK / Saiga / Vepr Reliability Service. NO Extra Waiting. - Cobra's Custom - forum.Saiga-12.com

here is the areas you need to polish if you want to DIY it… i think a full polish is cooler but whatevs

[video=youtube;6A0RzMZWVxs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6A0RzMZWVxs[/video]

Try to do this with yours… If your carrier slid like this it wouldn't require as much gas to get it going.
[video=youtube;O8V9js27RwI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8V9js27RwI[/video]

 

[spaniel]

Really, if you have a dremel you are wasting your money paying someone to profile your bolt for you unless you are completely inept with tools. I read the Saiga forum a bit, studied of the gun worked, and just did it. Round off the contact points between the bolt and hammer on both pieces. It's really not rocket science.

If you have disposable cash and want it to look all pretty and shiny, then go for it. Mine looks 90% as good and functions 100%.

 

[Ericpwp]