looking for someone to thread a h&r barrel

[digitalrebel80]

Who will do it around here or where should I send it

 

[ShootinIron]

TB

There are several places to take it, I think I saw a thread here on INGO on places. If you don't find anyone closer than I am bring it to me in Martinsville.

We offer professional gunbarrel threading, as well as cutting/crowning, porting, and special adapters. I use a top rated Class II FFL gun tool & die machinist that specialize in gun machining, that is all they do.

I am not trying to drum up business, but I do suggest you take it to someone that specializes in this. There are several Class III shops in your area that can advise you of suggested machinist in your area.

I may catch heat for saying this but most gunsmiths cannot properly put the kind of threads needed for asuppressor on a gun. I have also found that a lot of machine shops don’t have a clue as to type, size, tolerance, and class of threads for firearms. A baffle strike is not worth trying to save $10 on threading!

 

[digitalrebel80]

There are several places to take it, I think I saw a thread here on INGO on places. If you don't find anyone closer than I am bring it to me in Martinsville.

We offer professional gunbarrel threading, as well as cutting/crowning, porting, and special adapters. I use a top rated Class II FFL gun tool & die machinist that specialize in gun machining, that is all they do.

I am not trying to drum up business, but I do suggest you take it to someone that specializes in this. There are several Class III shops in your area that can advise you of suggested machinist in your area.

I may catch heat for saying this but most gunsmiths cannot properly put the kind of threads needed for asuppressor on a gun. I have also found that a lot of machine shops don’t have a clue as to type, size, tolerance, and class of threads for firearms. A baffle strike is not worth trying to save $10 on threading!

Thanks thats why I was asking how do I get in touch with you to get the work done.

 

[ShootinIron]

TB

PM sent...

 

[samot]

There are several places to take it, I think I saw a thread here on INGO on places. If you don't find anyone closer than I am bring it to me in Martinsville.

We offer professional gunbarrel threading, as well as cutting/crowning, porting, and special adapters. I use a top rated Class II FFL gun tool & die machinist that specialize in gun machining, that is all they do.

I am not trying to drum up business, but I do suggest you take it to someone that specializes in this. There are several Class III shops in your area that can advise you of suggested machinist in your area.

I may catch heat for saying this but most gunsmiths cannot properly put the kind of threads needed for asuppressor on a gun. I have also found that a lot of machine shops don’t have a clue as to type, size, tolerance, and class of reads for firearms. A baffle strike is not worth trying to save $10 on threading!

Just curious here ............

What" type of threads " or "class of threads" are firearm specific . ?
Also what " kind of threads are needed for a suppressor"?
So.......1/2 -28 threads on a suppressor are different than 1/2-28 threads a machinist would cut ???

 

[MikeDVB]

AllenM does threading, I think - wouldn't hurt to shoot him a PM.

 

[digitalrebel80]

Just curious here ............

What" type of threads " or "class of threads" are firearm specific . ?
Also what " kind of threads are needed for a suppressor"?
So.......1/2 -28 threads on a suppressor are different than 1/2-28 threads a machinist would cut ???

I have heard this before. I work in a machine shop, so I could have one of the guys cut them for me, but I want it to be done the right way for the suppressor.

 

[Beowulf]

ZR Tactical Solutions does threading as well. They are up in Noblesville now (moved down from Lafayette last year).

You can PM menzzer37 on here, or go to their website to contact them.

ZR Tactical Solutions, LLC

I had them thread a bunch of my guns and I was pretty happy with the work.

 

[CountryBoy19]

Just curious here ............

What" type of threads " or "class of threads" are firearm specific . ?
Also what " kind of threads are needed for a suppressor"?
So.......1/2 -28 threads on a suppressor are different than 1/2-28 threads a machinist would cut ???

I realize you're likely just playing devil's advocate here but for information sake I'll weigh in.

Proper threads would be Class III threads. If you don't know the difference between the different classes of threads then you likely aren't qualified to cut the threads. Any machinist worth his salt knows the different thread classes. As a matter of fact, any "machinist" that has any level of training should know them.

The threads need to be cut with minimal run-out indicated from the BORE not the barrel OD. The amount of permissible runout is somewhat variable. It depends on the specific suppressor make, how well your rounds are stabilized, the thread class of the suppressor & rifle combined, and many other aspects. So as a result of the "variable nature" the object is to get the threads as close to zero runout as possible. Most custom shops try to indicate to less than .0005" but you can likely get away with as much as .005" in some setups. It's really just a "risk mitigation" against a baffle strike. The tighter the runout the less risk you have.

This is all relatively basic machinist stuff, the problem is, does your local gunsmith have this machinist knowledge? Gun-smithing crosses into machining a lot and many gun-smiths don't know machining very well. OTOH, there are plenty of machinists out there that run side-jobs doing gun-smithing. If you give the guy good info as to the thread-specs you should get a good product out. Even better is if you have a gun-enthusiast that is a machinist, that also does gunsmithing. He will have a broad spectrum of knowledge on both aspects and should do a great job of overlapping the 2 areas to yield a top-notch product. I recommend you find one of those guys.

 

[ShootinIron]

Threading...

Samot, That may sound like a lot of smoke, but there is a difference in threads. I am only suggesting that they take it to someone that “knows the difference” and has experience in barrel threading. We all know a gunsmith, machinist, or maybe a farmer with a lath that is willing to “try”to thread your gun cheap! If you want cheap and think all threads are the same, go to the hardware store and get a ½ -28 die and go for it. Just because someone has a dermal tool does not mean I want them to do my dental work! If you are Indy area or North, I highly recommend Zac at ZR Tactical Solutions, they have the experience and equipment.

 

[samot]

I realize you're likely just playing devil's advocate here but for information sake I'll weigh in.

Proper threads would be Class III threads. If you don't know the difference between the different classes of threads then you likely aren't qualified to cut the threads. Any machinist worth his salt knows the different thread classes. As a matter of fact, any "machinist" that has any level of training should know them.

The threads need to be cut with minimal run-out indicated from the BORE not the barrel OD. The amount of permissible runout is somewhat variable. It depends on the specific suppressor make, how well your rounds are stabilized, the thread class of the suppressor & rifle combined, and many other aspects. So as a result of the "variable nature" the object is to get the threads as close to zero runout as possible. Most custom shops try to indicate to less than .0005" but you can likely get away with as much as .005" in some setups. It's really just a "risk mitigation" against a baffle strike. The tighter the runout the less risk you have.

This is all relatively basic machinist stuff, the problem is, does your local gunsmith have this machinist knowledge? Gun-smithing crosses into machining a lot and many gun-smiths don't know machining very well. OTOH, there are plenty of machinists out there that run side-jobs doing gun-smithing. If you give the guy good info as to the thread-specs you should get a good product out. Even better is if you have a gun-enthusiast that is a machinist, that also does gunsmithing. He will have a broad spectrum of knowledge on both aspects and should do a great job of overlapping the 2 areas to yield a top-notch product. I recommend you find one of those guys.

Uhhhhhhhhh Ya............
YOu Seem To Know What Your Talking /Writing About ......
However
Ive Cut Threadz Of All KInds For Close To 20 YRs Now .
I Dont ThinK Ive Ever Seen A Print Calling Out "Class 3" Threads
All Class3 Threads Are Is A Tolerance ....
Class 2 Have Roughly .006 Tolerance ...........
That's A PrettY Standard Dimension As Far AS Im Concerned......
Furthermore
How Many Barrels HaveYou Threaded?
Who ToldYou The Standard For Barrel Threading Was "Class 3"
I Don't Remember Seeing It Called Out On A Suppressor Manufacturers Website........
CB
You And I Have Conversed Via PM About Turning Baffles N Such .
So I'm Guessing You Have Made Some Chips.......
Or You Memorized The Machinist Handbook ........Lol
Im.Not Saying Just Throw A DiE In The Tailstock........
Although .....I Bet That Would WorkBetter Than One Might Think.....
I Do HoweverDisagree That The Barrels Need To Be Threaded Like Were MAking Telescope TUbes For NASA .
LEMME throw This At Ya.....
You've Got A Barrel Chucked Up .
You Wanna Make Sure The Bore IS Centered Up At The Muzzle End.
So You PUt A Test Indicator .500 In THe End Of The Barrel And Swing For Runout
Thats Straight ?
I Personally Think It Needs To Be Done Correct
But To Say I Can't Thread One Properly With My Lathe In My Barn IS Ludacris IN My Opinion
And Just In Case Anyone IS Wondering
Ive Threaded ALL my Barrels On My HK Clones
And I Run Suppressors On All Of Them And Have Never Had A BaFfle Strike......
AND
MY truturn 1440 LathE Just Happens To Be In My BarN!

 

[MikeDVB]

Uhhhhhhhhh Ya............
YOu Seem To Know What Your Talking /Writing About ......
However
Ive Cut Threadz Of All KInds For Close To 20 YRs Now .
I Dont ThinK Ive Ever Seen A Print Calling Out "Class 3" Threads
All Class3 Threads Are Is A Tolerance ....
Class 2 Have Roughly .006 Tolerance ...........
That's A PrettY Standard Dimension As Far AS Im Concerned......
Furthermore
How Many Barrels HaveYou Threaded?
Who ToldYou The Standard For Barrel Threading Was "Class 3"
I Don't Remember Seeing It Called Out On A Suppressor Manufacturers Website........
CB
You And I Have Conversed Via PM About Turning Baffles N Such .
So I'm Guessing You Have Made Some Chips.......
Or You Memorized The Machinist Handbook ........Lol
Im.Not Saying Just Throw A DiE In The Tailstock........
Although .....I Bet That Would WorkBetter Than One Might Think.....
I Do HoweverDisagree That The Barrels Need To Be Threaded Like Were MAking Telescope TUbes For NASA .
LEMME throw This At Ya.....
You've Got A Barrel Chucked Up .
You Wanna Make Sure The Bore IS Centered Up At The Muzzle End.
So You PUt A Test Indicator .500 In THe End Of The Barrel And Swing For Runout
Thats Straight ?
I Personally Think It Needs To Be Done Correct
But To Say I Can't Thread One Properly With My Lathe In My Barn IS Ludacris IN My Opinion
And Just In Case Anyone IS Wondering
Ive Threaded ALL my Barrels On My HK Clones
And I Run Suppressors On All Of Them And Have Never Had A BaFfle Strike......
AND
MY truturn 1440 LathE Just Happens To Be In My BarN!

^^^ What the heck is this? ^^^

I'm not reading that... Good luck sir.

 

[churchmouse]

AllenM here on ingo. Nothing against the other folks who I have heard of but do not know anything about them personally. Allen has done some work for me and many I know. We all feel he is top shelf.

Edit....what was Samot trying to tell us in that term paper he submitted...................

 

[samot]

what was Samot trying to tell us in that term paper he submitted...................

That it aint rocket science !
Everyone wants to say / think it is .........
But it is not .....
They make go and no go gauges for threads
Even " class 3"
I agree with CB , it needs to be done correctly.

The messed up typing in my above post is thanks to the latest upgrade for my droid phone
If you cant read it then don't

 

[CountryBoy19]

I'll try to break this down simply to put more info out there.

Uhhhhhhhhh Ya............
YOu Seem To Know What Your Talking /Writing About ......
However
Ive Cut Threadz Of All KInds For Close To 20 YRs Now .
I Dont ThinK Ive Ever Seen A Print Calling Out "Class 3" Threads
All Class3 Threads Are Is A Tolerance ....
Class 2 Have Roughly .006 Tolerance ...........
That's A PrettY Standard Dimension As Far AS Im Concerned......
Furthermore

I use class III spec in my day-job more than any other thread spec. While Class II certainly is the most common, Class III is common for anything involving precision.

How Many Barrels HaveYou Threaded?

How many barrels specifically? Not many because I only do my own barrels. But how many times have I run single-point threads? Countless.

Who ToldYou The Standard For Barrel Threading Was "Class 3"
I Don't Remember Seeing It Called Out On A Suppressor Manufacturers Website........

Just for one example, AAC gives actual prints, and although they don't specifically call out a Class III thread, their specs for major and pitch diameters on their "special" threads most closely match that of the Class III specs. Certain AAC suppressors allow a class 2 thread. Why? Because the firearms those are often installed on already have class 2 threads. More on this later.

CB
You And I Have Conversed Via PM About Turning Baffles N Such .
So I'm Guessing You Have Made Some Chips.......
Or You Memorized The Machinist Handbook ........Lol

No, I'm far from having memorized much of anything in the machinists handbook. Just a geeky nerd engineer that also has machine shop in my garage.

Im.Not Saying Just Throw A DiE In The Tailstock........
Although .....I Bet That Would WorkBetter Than One Might Think.....

It's certainly possible to do an adequate job of threading with even a die, but it's not really ideal because it allows a lot more error. The more error, the more potential for problems.

I Do HoweverDisagree That The Barrels Need To Be Threaded Like Were MAking Telescope TUbes For NASA .

I certainly understand where you're coming from, but from the perspective of a manufacturer of a suppressor, that puts a warranty on it, once it leaves your hands everything else is out of your control. A bad threading job costs you money. The only way to truly mitigate the risk of having a lot of suppressors returned for baffle strikes is to spec tight threads, and/or make the suppressors with very large bores. The latter is not good for suppression and therefore you see most manufacturers balancing between the 2. I can say for one that my F1 suppressor has a very tight bore, and therefore it was threaded Class III to minimize that risk. Going back to the above point about AAC specs being "special" for some suppressors and Class 2 for others. What they've most likely done on the models that spec class 2 threads is open the bore clearance up a bit to permit the install on guns that are already threaded class 2 like AR-15 etc. It certainly isn't going to hurt to thread your barrel class 3 though. Class 2A threads on a suppressor will still fit on a 3B threaded barrel, it will just fit closer/tigher that a 2A to 2B fit. So from the perspective of a compatibility issue, even if you don't ever plan to acquire any other suppressor, Class 3 threads on your barrel would be best just in case you ever do need a Class 3 thread.

LEMME throw This At Ya.....
You've Got A Barrel Chucked Up .
You Wanna Make Sure The Bore IS Centered Up At The Muzzle End.
So You PUt A Test Indicator .500 In THe End Of The Barrel And Swing For Runout
Thats Straight ?
I Personally Think It Needs To Be Done Correct
But To Say I Can't Thread One Properly With My Lathe In My Barn IS Ludacris IN My Opinion
And Just In Case Anyone IS Wondering
Ive Threaded ALL my Barrels On My HK Clones
And I Run Suppressors On All Of Them And Have Never Had A BaFfle Strike......
AND
MY truturn 1440 LathE Just Happens To Be In My BarN!

Technically, the right way to set up a barrel for threading is to indicate from the bore at 2 places. If it's rifled you can't indicate inside the bore directly, so most people use an extended plug gage. Find a plug gage the fits snugly in the muzzle at least an inch or so, then indicate 2 different places on the remainder of the plug gauge protruding from the bore. The catch to this is that this doesn't do any good if you're only using a 4-jaw chuck. You need either a special 4-jaw + a spider on the outboard end of the head stock or you need a 4-jaw and a cat-head on the steady rest. The closer you can get it the better. I've known a lot of custom guys that are so critical that they will indicate down to .0001". Is this needed for all barrel threading jobs? No. I think today most manufacturers realize that guys aren't doing this for every barrel threading job and therefore they give a reasonable clearance in the bore of the suppressor to account for small mis-alignments.

I never meant to imply that a lesser quality thread-job won't perform well, just that your risk of a baffle strike is increased, especially on suppressors with tight bore clearance. I also wouldn't worry about your lathe in the barn, the location has very little bearing on how accurately it will cut threads.