Wishing the Mouse was still with us. He had some some amazing work.churchmouse liked to use Lucas Engine Assembly Lube on parts of his 1911. That's what I bought and use on mine.
I remember that. It should be thick because it's assembly lube. Hopefully it's synthetic. Oil isn't what it used to be but the synthetics bind better than junk gun oil.Wishing the Mouse was still with us. He had some some amazing work.
I Believe black rifle balm had put out a very extensive article that made a lot of good points for a quality grease versus oil. Knowing the Mouse recommended it gives it a high degree of credibility.CM told me to grease the slide.
You should grease anything that slides with a light grease like Black Rifle Balm. Grease top and side of rails, disconnect and disco slide. Use thick synthetic motor oil on pivot points and friction points. You want good oil that will stick. Grease will hold in contaminates. Oil will spread them out so clean and lube after a few hundred rounds.
I don't know what grease he used.I Believe black rifle balm had put out a very extensive article that made a lot of good points for a quality grease versus oil. Knowing the Mouse recommended it gives it a high degree of credibility.
Good enough for Glock.
And lots of heavy equipment and industrial equipment and machines.Good enough for Glock.
I like it, more load bearing pressure protection.And lots of heavy equipment and industrial equipment and machines.
The real reason is that in places that don't get good maintenance, once the grease dries up the copper is still there for lubrication. It does work real good at pressure and heat also thoughI like it, more load bearing pressure protection.
Light grease. Heavy grease will absorb energy needed to cycle, especially when cold. Heavy silicone and anti seize is better than not having anything, but the lighter the better. Only on things that slide. Heavy molecular bonding oil on friction points, and lots of it.You grease guys: how does your grease stay slick enough to not interfere with operation?
Every grease I've encountered will be OK immediately after application, but completely fouled and nearly gummy after just a couple of magazines.
You can't get past it. Grease is going to collect and hold the contaminants. The good news is it is still lubricating if you use an EP grease.You grease guys: how does your grease stay slick enough to not interfere with operation?
Every grease I've encountered will be OK immediately after application, but completely fouled and nearly gummy after just a couple of magazines.
I'm not sure the reason you have anti seize and grease in a different category.Light grease. Heavy grease will absorb energy needed to cycle, especially when cold. Heavy silicone and anti seize is better than not having anything, but the lighter the better. Only on things that slide. Heavy molecular bonding oil on friction points, and lots of it.