Need advice

[tribeofham]

Years back, I purchased an m24/47 with a duffel cut that was never reattached. There are still rough saw marks. The previous owner claims neither he or his grandfather shot it once it was brought back after WWII. The rifle itself has a few battle scars but it was well kept over the years.

I'm fairly confident I can cleanly reattach the stock cleanly. Since I'll be using Acraglas, my primary concern is something oozing out unnoticed. I'll be taping off the edges but it can only do so much. It's hard to file it down without hitting the wood and it's even harder to match a 75+ year old oiled stock.

If anyone has any tips or lessons learned through experience, I'm all ears.

 

[hammer24]

[video=youtube;JDkxrkuaGUQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDkxrkuaGUQ[/video]

 

[Mgderf]

O.k.
I had never heard of a "duffle cut".
Why is it called a duffle cut, and why would someone cut a stock in such a manner to start with?
Is this just an attempt at "sporterizing"?

 

[DeadeyeChrista'sdad]

GIs would cut the stock off of their rifle,. Stuff it into their duffel bag, and bring it home.

 

[Sniper 79]

Needs moved to smithing section.

I would sand the whole thing down glue it with reinforcement pins and oil it back up. Clean up all the metal and hit the range.

 

[mkgr22]

O.k.
I had never heard of a "duffle cut".
Why is it called a duffle cut, and why would someone cut a stock in such a manner to start with?
Is this just an attempt at "sporterizing"?

GIs would cut the stock off of their rifle,. Stuff it into their duffel bag, and bring it home.

The Mauser stocks were too long to fit in the G.I.'s duffel bag without sticking out of the top, so they cut the stock where the lower band sits.

 

[Old Bear]

You can use a paste was (for wood) and apply it on rather thick around the area you are repairing. Do not get any in the area you are trying to glue. Immediately wipe off any oozing that you see. Once dry and unclamped, you need to scrape off what you missed wiping while it was still wet. This is what I do to minimize the need to file off the oozing Acraglas. The wood is a lot softer than the epoxy, so you will always end up with low spots on either side of the epoxy joint if you rely on sanding or filing. The scraping is very effective and does not hurt the wood... if you are careful. There is a lot of good info out there to explain how to scrape your stock.

Just remember....always pull the scraper TOWARD you....never push it away from you.

 

[tribeofham]

[video=youtube;JDkxrkuaGUQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDkxrkuaGUQ[/video]

Oh man. This video gave me anxiety. The amount of Acraglas he used seemed like way too much. I feel like he butchered it up a bit? Then again, he's the one with experience, not me. The divets seem like a good idea.

I appreciate all the solid advice in this thread. I'll be sure to take before and after pictures, possibly after this weekend.

 

[2in1evtime]

I have fixed 4 duffle cut k98"s, i took a piece of thin cut walnut{about the thickness of a hand saw blade} glued it in then drilled and installed 3 inch pins int with glue to hold it worked out great, after it was set up i could just trim down the shim and the barrel band covers the repair

 

[hammer24]

Oh man. This video gave me anxiety. The amount of Acraglas he used seemed like way too much. I feel like he butchered it up a bit? Then again, he's the one with experience, not me. The divets seem like a good idea.

I appreciate all the solid advice in this thread. I'll be sure to take before and after pictures, possibly after this weekend.

Just like wood glue, you want squeeze out. If you're worried about it, put release agent on the exterior finish around the joint. It will pop right off with a chisel after curing. Almost everything will be covered with the barrel band anyways. Good luck!

 

[MongooseLaw]

Not really possible to have an M24/47 bringback from WW2 as they were all postwar rebuilds. It may be more valuable than a 24/47 if it's a prewar model 24 with no import marks.